Wild and Free

These exhaust systems are all clamp together like the OEM and come with clamps, only need to be welded if you think you need it, I run mine in about the most harsh systems and have never had anything come loose using only clamps.

I am partial to Westach gauges and to cure your issue they also make dual temp and combination gauges in one. http://www.genosgarage.com/WESTACH-Gauges/departments/95/ I work with both manual and electric gauges daily and I would have to disagree with Mike on this issue, mechanical pressure gauges will be a bit faster to register for what we use them for on our rigs but electrical temp gauges are more responsive and more accurate. This of course is if you buy quality gauges. Did I mention I like WESTACH. Might not be the prettiest but I want the best quality not the prettiest in my rigs. As far as no electricity.......well on anything newer than a 12v you have a dead rig no matter what.

If you order a system from FTE they will sell you a system with a resonator and no muffler, call them, they will work with your needs or more importantly your "WANTS"

I have never seen a second gen with a Catalytic converter, not until the CR cummins. Yes the front can in front of the muffler on a 2nd gen 24v is a factory resonator. I wouldn't put one back on a diesel, we do not have emissions testing in ND but from what I have read when states that test diesels they are looking at haze and soot levels and not measuring NOX levels.

Catalytic converters are like gold at salvage yards, The platinum the catalyst is made of is a highly sought after material now days.Take it off and sell it to the salvage yard,it will pay for a bit of the new exhaust system. Most Cats have a very high core charge now days.

In a very short and simple explanation.............Protect our Constititional freedoms and unalieable rights our founding Fathers fought for and deal with interstate commerce issues and international trade and treaties with other countries.Now they think they are here to protect us from terrorist threats they created in exchange for the freedom and rights they have stolen from us.

What he said^^^^^^^^^^^^^ Do it once do it right. Speaking from experience definately do the FTE resonator with a new 4" exhaust system. I have done a muffler delete and the muffler delete will make the drone unbarable in the cab. I had a single 4 inch straight pipe stack on my 02 and it was horrible in the cab, just about needed dual hearing protection, put on the 17 inch FTE resonator and the drone was totally gone but exhaust tone was still loud, currently have the factory exhaust with the catalytic converter and a muffler delete on my 05 and the exhaust noise isn't too bad in the cab but the drone especially while towing is horrible as well. I am going to upgrade to the 30 inch FTE resonator with a new 4" aftermarket exhaust very soon.

In todays day and age its the things you can't see that the governments produce that are more likely to get us than another humans physical attack. The radiation from Fukashima is killing tens of thousands of people to this day but is not talked about. Not to mention the biological killers being produced. Here is such A story just released today along with an Alex Jones video breakdown of the story. http://www.chron.com/news/houston-texas/houston/article/Missing-virus-vial-raises-concerns-at-UTMB-4380346.php http-~~-//www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_embedded&v=td7fW6kQAyE

:lmao:That would be the day the world ends!!!! lol.

I am unclear what "ALL" means under max weight without brakes in ND and Wis.?:think:ND is as lax as they come, never have I heard of a personal vehicle or small time operators getting harassed about anything, I do think they need to set up shop at state parks and other camp grounds and start ticketing all the 1/2 ton boys who are toting around 35' + campers with huge boats behind those to boot.:doh:I see several of these piled up in scrap heaps in the ditch every summer when the trailers get to wagging the tow vehicle and causing them to loose control, not to mention the high winds we get as well.I see half ton pickups towing things I would be nervous towing behind a dually.

I am so jealous you get to spend so much time with boats, I would rather be on the water enjoying them rather than transporting them though.

lol.........first time I have read this thread and I was going to post something that is the most common for overcooling and the problem just appeared to you as I read you just posted a few minutes ago. One of the most common reasons for overcooling are partially plugged radiator cores. It causes the coolant to spend more time in the radiator than it normally would which pulls more of the heat out of the coolant than normal. Nobody mentioned the first thing to be done on any engine with erratic cooling issues is to shoot the top and bottom hoses to see what the temp drop is. As a very general range If you start seeing more than 30+- degrees drop this is an indicator of plugged cores. With newer vehicles aluminum radiators it is more important than ever to mix coolant with distilled or RO water to keep any and all mineral and other solids from scaling the inside of the aluminum cores. It is also almost as important to take coolant samples the same as we do oil sampling, believe it or not at work we get just as many bad coolant samples back as we do oil samples. Every oil lab has coolant sampling capabilities too. Most samples for new equipment always come back bad either the glycol level is too strong or too weak or the solid particulate matter is too high, on older equipment the additives deplete just like oils and believe it or not on engines liquid cooled turbos the coolant can become burnt.

I need to know more about this thing!!!!!!!!!!!! Where did you find it and who built it?

I am not sure if this is the rig but I saw one similar to it in Billings Montana a few years back that was along the same lines as this one that gave me the idea of what I am looking to build, if it is as ugly as this one even better. He primarily used it as a Mudder but he had slicks on it with a 5 speed tranny and ran the 1/4 mile in the 10 second range and that was while being broke loose and sideways the first 300 feet of the run with smoke rolling off all 4 tires.

OK Guys and Gals......Here is my dream.I want to start acruing parts to do a very custom build.What I want........A rig that can do all I like to do.I want to build a Cummins powered rig that I can do several things with. I want a Mud bogger / power puller / rock climbing off road tripping all in one rig. Want it to be a mid/rear of center mounted engine with a low center of gravity chassis. D80 rear D60 front to keep weight down versus rockwell axles.Now here is what I want from all of you..........Give me your ideas on how you would go about it.I am looking for ideas to get my project rolling, it is going to be a several year project to finish and will probably never be a finished project and will always be morphing.Should it be a custom built tube chassis or start with a frame chassis?Let the fun begin.:woot:Anyone with drafting skills more than welcome to help design a chassis to fit a Cummins, thinking of about a 650ish+ hp p-pumped 24V.

Not sure where in Texas you are But Get some from Inland truck parts and service, they specialize in this sort of thing I am sure they are 10.9 grade and they shoul have the shoulder on the head too. http://www.inlandtruck.com/locations/locations.php#allITP

If you can get those torx head cap bolts out, throw them as far over the fence as possible and get yourself some normal hex head cap bolts. It will save you a big headache in the future. If they are the same size get some from a second gen which the odd one looks like it came from.:smart:How much shorter is it? If it is just a thread or two from sticking out or flush don't worry about it.

Figured I would share the first oil analysis for my 05 from Oil Analyzers out of Salt Lake city Utah lab. My 05 has 105K on it and had 8100 miles on this oil and I run Fleetgaurd full flow and an Amsoil Bypass filter.I did change the oil and filters this go around but as you can see by the sample I just flushed a bunch of cash down the toilet, as you can see the oil was looking quite excellent yet. From here I will begin doing a 1K sample for reference and then again at 5K and then I will resample and change oil at 10K miles but That is about all I put on this rig in a year. Heck I only had 8100 miles on it since my last change last march.I will include a sheet that shows acceptable limits as well.

Thanks, I will check them out when I get a chance, 1st AR I have owned, never even shot one before. Never been big on wasting ammo, I am a 1 shot 1 kill kind of guy and an more interested in accuracy and being able to hit things in the 200-400 yard range. Kinda comes with growing up on the prairie, nothing like rolling coyotes at a dead run at 400+ yards.Still nice to have, Can't complain but I wish it was a 20" barrel instead of 16" maybe get into Prairie dog shooting more once I get it zeroed in and find out the accuracy range of it and what ammo will be the most accurate. If I can find anything that isn't FMJ which is all I can find.

I am not a gambler and only buy about 1 lottery ticket a year but do buy raffle tickets for certain things usually if they are giving away a vehicle or guns. Well I went to our local gun show a month ago and bought 3 $5 raffle tickets from our local shooting club and got a call from a fellow last night telling me I won the grand prize.:hyper: Got me a shiney new S&W MP15 Sport in .223. http://www.bmrpa.org/2013/01/01/2013-bmrpa-raffle/ 839 retail but selling in my area for around 1500, now if there was any ammo to be had for less than a buck a round I would be a happy camper but for now it will look good when I open my gun safe. Now to see if my luck holds as there is a huge 250 gun raffle on Saturday which I bought 5 tickets for last fall.

Just jack one fron tire off the ground and it will rotate by hand.

I do the same thing myself, I don't test drive until it has had a thourough inspection by myself. I have even asked for a jack or to see it up on a lift too so I could get a better look.This procedure has never let me down yet either.

When I had my 02 on the dyno, I made several runs and overall with the II HRvp44 tapped level 5x4 Which always outperformed 5x5 no matter what setup I had on hot unlocked edge comp and BD 155 injectors and II silver 62 turbo I only gained about 35 hp and about 150 ft lbs torque versus my SO pump.It was a good combo with the tapped comp overall, I had no issues other than a lope while warm at idle, I ran a smarty with it for a very short time and the smarty with or without th comp on was a nearly undrivable combo, this thing had such an extremely touchy throttle off idle it was almost dangerous. I sold the smarty shortly after as I couldn't find a good Smarty setting after the HR pump.

NAW They are safe...........They took Bidens advice and bought shot guns!

:piwwp:I think everyone has a day like ths every so often.Why was there bare metal exposed? I have never heard of a spray on liner that needed to be sprayed on bare metal, most just require scuffed and cleaned and dry paint to stick to.