Wild and Free

I have the same issue now, I ran my Hemi through the wash yesterday, almost forgot it was silver. Today I will run the 05 through the wash when the wife and I go out on a date tonight.

This is the most common reason why manual trannys fail and why if you tow or pull heavy a tranny temp gauge is far more important to have on a manual tranny than an auto tranny. When I worked at Inland Truck Parts and Service years back I talked many customers into adding temp gauges on manual trannies and everyone who tows heavy came back with eyes wide open as to how hot they get when towing in 5th or 6th if a 5600. You would be amazed at how many Cummins rigs came into the shop with the input gear totally melted and either stripped the gears off the shaft or melted and broke the shaft frm extreme temps and the bearing would be welded together and either locked up or gone completely. We had one customer with a 99 dually and he pulled a 40 foot gooseneck trailer and hauled a Case 580K FWA backhoe loader and an 1845 Case skid steer on it everyday, IIRC he grossed well over 40K lbs and he had to put a new clutch and input in every 6 months if not more.

From my experience with this adjustment and from talking to my coworker who has a business that specializes in rebuilding steering gears it is not recommended that people try and make these adjustments on thier own.For one it makes a very minor difference and secondly can be a safety hazard as too much adjustment can cause the steering gear to become tight and or lock up. If a gear has many miles on it the adjustments are trying to compensate for wear that is beyond what you can make up for with any adjustment.

As posted before the factory specs are very broad, our rigs need as much positive caster as possible, just max out the caster cams on the front of the lower control arms and be happy. You can not get too much caster with the factory caster cam adjustments on our rigs. maxing this out helps with wander. The second best thing is to replace the factory steering gear box with a Borgeson 3.5 turn gear box., Third is when your track bar end link goes bad do a 3rd gen track bar conversion update.I wouldn't wast any money on the steering stabilizer brace unless you do most of your driving at slow speeds around town, have a heavy bumper or snowplow or do serious off roading.I wasted money on this on 3 rigs and it did absolutely nothing for steering quality on any of them.

Yes internally balanced which is why our engines use a vibration Dampner to smooth out the engine along with what is hanging off of it be it a flywheel with a dual disc clutch or a triple disc converter among other things like the basc harmonics of the engine itself just to keep things quiet and vibration free. Don't confuse it with harmonic balancers like a lot of engines that are not internally balanced use.

After running 3 2nd gens there are only 2 steering mods that need to be done, save your money on the rest.first is to upgrade to the 3rd gen track bar conversion and second is to go with a 3.5 turn Borgeson steering gear box.:thumb1:The 3rd thing that doesn't require parts is to max out your caster cams to get as much positive caster as possible to help it reduce wander.

Wife and I went from a huge old filter queen which just keep going forever to a Dyson and absolutely love it.I found it on Amazon for about half of regular retail.

I ran a Fliud Damper brand on my 02, reuse the OEM bolts, install them dry and torque them to the proper torque it is hard to hold the engine from turning on an auto rig, I happen to have an engine barring tool I put in the flywheel ring geat with a breaker bar to hold the engine. The bolts are a torque + turn or torque to stretch as you already know.You can easily change the belt with a FD installed on a 24v 2nd gen.It did make a big difference in making mine idle smoother with my setup with an HRVP44 and bigger injectors, mine had a mild lope at idle when hot and the FD lessened the lope.You do not need to remove the fan shroud, at least I did not.

Have you replaced a hub or front sensor recently? This is what my 02 did when I replaced 1 front sensor with a non OEM, it reads differently than the OEM, I had to swap out the other sensor and it cured my problem which was exactly as you describe yours is doing.

Thanks for that reminder, I have also ran into this when I worked at a truck shop years ago. It actually happened several times on older rigs.

I would start to isolate things, if it starts to act up within a few miles you could set the entire rig on stands completely off the ground and run it at a higher rpm for a while in neutral or park and see if that alone causes brakes to start applying and dragging if you try to turn the wheels by hand, if all is good there then put it in gear and let it roll for a while and see which brake starts dragging you may have a brake assembly not aligned right or something along those lines.How does the booster vent? make sure that there is a vent to atmosphere I have seen this be a cause of headaches like you are explaining. Also make sure the booster "If vacuum operated" is hooked to a manifold vacuum port and not port vacuum.

Rock auto has a discount code good for another week or 2. Remeber they have to be replaced as a matching brand set unless you install an OEM sensor, I found this out the hard way when I thought I could just replace one bad one with an aftermarket and fought things for over a week on my 02 until I replaced the second one and problems solved.

Why the need for an exhaust brake? How will it be used and what are you trying to slow down?If there is a true need for one like towing heavy every day of the week on long grades then go with a controller along with the EB of your choice. You show a tow/haul VB in your sig what does it consist of? Possible it is already capable of TC loc down to 2nd gear.Personally I like BD's systems.

That would be fun but this is more my style,

Yeah the 4bs are a hard find, there is a huge Bus dealership in Bismarck and they always have old school buses for sale and dirt cheap, I see a lot of fords and bluebirds and others with 6 bt/allison combo powered buses for sale for 2500-3500 bucks, I have always wanted to pick one up but don't have any projects I want to start when I see the deals. Here is one such deal for sale right now. http://www.harlowsbussales.com/inventory/details/?s=2904

I know that the Aliarc aluminum bumpers look nice but for actual long term use they do not hold up, I have several friends who used to run them and over time of running country roads they crack out and rattle themselves apart and if one does hit a deer with them they will somewhat protect the rig but the bumper is all but good for the recycle bin.BNSF railroad used to run the Aliarc bumpers on every crew transport vehicle and has since gone away from them for the same reasons, they do not hold together and are always in the weld shop getting fixed.I know there are other brands of aluminum bumpers like the Australina company UTE bull bumper that are made quite heavy and hold up better but are cost prohibitive, I will stick with my Ranch Hand steel bumpers, best bang for the buck litteraly as I have made it a bad day for many deer with mine over the years and no damage to anything at all.I think ARB makes a heavy duty alum bumper too but very expensive as well.

They are and have been used in a lot of 1 ton and 1 1/4 ton delivery vans since the 80's and are still used in them today and have plenty of power. Fedex and UPS use tons of the 4bt engines in their van delivery trucks to this day as well.

Well the timing belt is common on many smaller diesels, Every thing related to the egr is common with almost every diesel now, Heck even on my 03 VW TDI one has to pull the intake manifold off every 100+K or so to clean the carbon buildup out of it. Timing belt job on it includes all the same and just ran me $1000 for the VW dealer to do it a few months ago for its 200k mile swap. Egr isn't a design flaw it is a government regulation flaw that nobody has designed a good system to work around yet. As you stated there are ways around the egr system but that brings other issues even on VW's.As far as fuel system Well goes to prove it is a Chrysler design. Never heard of any engine having rocker shaft issues.

All to "DESENSITIVE" the mind and eliminate any hesitation an officer may have about shooting a pregnant woman or a child!!!! What has our socoety decayed to for our government to classify every US citizen as a threat and a terrorist..................We are now the enemy, as DHS stocks up on another 2 billion rounds of ammo a week or so ago.

I figured it was a genset engine, I have seen pictures of and read articles of other Genset engines on remote islands made by Deutz that make this engine look like a Briggs.

Well the wall paper for this month sums it up for me, summer time is spent on the water and camping when we can.

I had a short one on my 02 with a single 4" stack and it took the drone out but was still very loud, I think the long one would be perfect on a normal exhaust to keep things nice and tolerable for long trips.

I told a guy at work about them and he put a long one on his 03 with 5" exh and he says it is too quiet now, I heard it on high idle the other day and it was fairly quiet, I want to put one on my 05 in place of the catalytic converter.

You are the first I have seen to post anything bad about the CRD liberty engine. What was your experience with this engine manufacturer to leave such a bad taste in your craw?

I would highly recommend a dually for loads like toy haulers, I have friends with 38' toy haulers and they use 3/4 ton single wheels but take things real slow, you blow a single rear tire with that kind of load isn't a good thing not to mention you will have a lot more and faster tire wear on the rears with that kind of load.