Wild and Free

How would I disable all the double click cookies that some sites have? What I am talking about is when I go to some sites that have articles I will click on an article and I always click the back button to go back to the main page, but some sites load so many cookies that you have to click 6-8 times to go back using the back button or else I have to right click on the back button to get the dropdown menu to pick the original page, some sites are getting horrible and in the secondary page when I click the go back menu there are sometimes 6+ double click ad cookies that load after the main page. So how do I get around this to get back to clicking the back button one time to get back to the main page.Running windows 7. I figure it must be a simple setting I need to change but don't know which one.

Not only will they keep the batts charged but help them last longer.

Its not just more fuel that gives more HP it comes down to the finer and more consistant atomized spray patterns that make a huge difference as well if you make the fuel easier and more efficient to burn it has already made more power, this is accomplished through the spray angles, size and number of holes in the injector spacing the injector with different thickness seal washers depending on past machine work to block and head or to just adjust for a different spray angle ect..

Thanks now I have coffe on the keyboard!

Go back in with the brass bushing, do not use the needle bearing, the bushing will last longer and will not destroy the end of the input shaft like a needle bearing can.

They make a master disconnect switch which disconnects the battery ground. Just a simple inline mechanical switch between the battery and ground in the main battery cable. There are many different styles.

Engine block to chassis ground will cause this, if there is not a good block to chassis ground the alternator looks for a ground through whatever is the easiest route, bearing are usually the culprit. Not at all uncommon.

I have followed some of ol Abes history and a majority of books gloss over his career and totally ingnore his real self. There are several authors out there who get the facts straight, here is a recent article about such an author and a link to his book. http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/0874850851?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creativeASIN=0874850851&linkCode=xm2&tag=lewrockwell http://lewrockwell.com/dilorenzo/dilorenzo241.html "Who freed the slaves? To the extent that they were ever ‘freed,’ they were freed by the Thirteenth Amendment, which was authored and pressured into existence not by Lincoln but by the great emancipators nobody knows, the abolitionists and congressional leaders who created the climate and generated the pressure that goaded, prodded, drove, forced Lincoln into glory by associating him with a policy that he adamantly opposed for at least fifty-four of his fifty-six years of his life." Lerone Bennett, Jr., Forced into Glory: Abraham Lincoln’ s White Dream, p. 19

There is a story about the guy Dubbed the original "Crocodile Dundee" whom the movie was based after, he was actually killed by the Aussie state for not giving up his guns, but that is another one of those "Rabbit holed" stories.

AAAHHH now it makes sense, had me confused with all the rebuild talk, so it is an exchange then.

First I have heard of an 88 cummins. What is the build date of the rig, generally anything built from august on is registered as the next year? Maybe could have been a registration glitch. Or it could be you got the prototype and don't know you are driving them crown jewel that started this great dynasty.

X2^^^^^^^^^ to Mikes question but if it was eletrical smoke the first thing to check is to see if it has the right amperage fuse in the circuit, fuses should pop waaaaaaay before you see any smoke.

By saying the Bill is paid does this mean they only charged you a set amount for a complete rebuild site unseen?

I would not trust them that far away, I would wait for one closer to you that you could take the pan off of and inspect it like you did your own, and then talk the owner into letting you take it to a tranny shop with a tranny dyno and giving it a test run there before taking a leap of faith and someone laughing as they are counting the money they just stole from you.Just my preference from experience with used trannies.:smart:Also if it came out of a 24V 98.5 it is a 47re and will work in your 99.

Mike from experience and knowing others personaly who have sent things in to II for repair/rebuild, Word to the wise is to get a quote in first, Most repair / rebuilds they do wind up costing people more or as much as a new turbo would. Do not let them touch it without talking to you first and giving you a "HARD" quote not an estimate. Not knocking II at all, they are great but they tend to gouge folk more often than not on the service end.

I think your question is too broad, too many variables there, like comparing a geo metro to a freight train. I think as far as passenger jet liners the most fuel burned is at take off, and is measures in weight versus gallons. Then you look a a small 2 passenger gas powered plane and it is probably comparable to a geo.

That very thing is happening in Europe with Carbon Taxes, every plane in the sky gets charged a carbon credit tax now so countries like China and others just flat out quit flying to and from Europe already, it was a blip on the news a few months back but got rabbit holed quickly.

Looks like part of a snap ring but hard to tell from the pic, judging by the color and looks of the oil and amount of material on the magnet it is time for a tear down and refresh or rebuild depending on what all else is worn or broke.

In your shoes I would stick with an HX version.

BD super B, 58/65/14. I ran this with 90 hp injectors and it was lazy & lagy and hot compared to the stock hy with wastegate linkage hook and comp on my 02. I think the Super B would work with RV injectors or 40-60 hp sticks and comp, 90 hp was a bit much. You are not going to have enough fuel to run a PS62/70 http://www.dieselperformance.com/index.php/product/index/3P http://dieselperformance.com/pdf/BD_Single_Street-Tow_Turbos.pdf

I can tell you from experience with several different turbos and knowing what you use your rig for and the territory and I can say I would not go with even a 62/70 as it is going to be very lazy and smokey in them thar hills, Definately stick close to what you have now, Or a Super B at max, a 62/70 is too much for your needs and current fuel.

Yes if the relay is stuck and supplying current to the lockup solenoid it could cause your issue, and if you pull it and it still locks and drags you most likely have converter or bearing issues.

Been anywhere from -20 to around +20 the last couple weeks here but for January that is normal, I can remember many winters that the thermometer never saw anything above 0 for 4-6 weeks at a time from december through february.Just suck it up and trudge on. I personally love how the extreme cold feel in my lungs, hard to describe it but it is almost like inhaling new life with every breath the air seems so clean and pure it only feels harsh the first few breathes outside but it then changes to a good thing, my wife loves the feel of it too. If you are moving and working one doesn't hardly know it, funny thing around here is you don't realize how climatized you are to it until it hits 20-30* and everyone is running around in t-shirts.Mike you have a very different climate if it is warmer in a valley, around here if it will usually be 10* colder down lower in a valley than out in the open as thats were the colder air settles and pools out. You must have warm air flowing through the mountain valleys keeping the coldes air from settling.

It does sound like the lockup clutch is dragging or a bearing in the converter is failing with the description, have you pulled the lockup clutch relay and see if it goes away, this will indicate a bad relay or internal issues.Also if the converter did fail it doesn't mean the tranny is shot, If you put a new converter in you would want to replace the VB with a better one as well or modify yours at minimum, I like the aftermarket VB,s as they have all sorts of porting and machining mods done to improve flow and cooling not just diffferent springs ect that an ordinary shift kit supplies.The tranny has a sump a magnet and a filter for a reason, to catch the crap from other failing parts.You won't know until you first pull the relay and if that does nothing then drop the pan and look at what kind of stuff you find for debris and take pics to post up before cleaning it up so I could better help.

Thanks, I have crossed paths with Moose and black bears in the north earstern part of ND in the lake Metigoshi area and Turtle Mountains while snowmobiling also.