Wild and Free

Reminds me of the old bull and the young bull story that were just released into the pasture full of heifers.Young bull wanted to run down and MMM HMM with a heifer.The old bull said how bout we walk down and MM HMM the whole herd.

As everyone knows North Dakaotas economy is booming in a big way in many areas, most noteably is the oil boom in western ND. Well here is a story to chew on. Menards a huge home improvement supply store that competes with the likes of Home depot and Lowes chain based out of Wisconsin has several stores accross ND. Well in Minot ND which is in the center of the oil Boom has had problems finding enough workers to fill vacancies opened up due to the explosion of high paying oil related jobs. Instead of offering to pay slightly higher wages they decide to just pay to fly employees into Minot from out of state to work for subpar wages. How underhanded and dirty is that and why would any employee with any kind of principle want to support this kind of business practice?:banghead::mad: Here is a link to a local stroy talking about it. http://sayanythingblog.com/entry/menards-employees-commuting-to-north-dakota-via-airplane/ http://www.leadertelegram.com/news/front_page/article_72685882-36c6-11e2-a8af-0019bb2963f4.html?mode=jqm And then in Williston they bribed Menards into the town and expect the tax payers to cover the burden of this. I suppose they will fly in more people from around the country into Boom town where wages at Mcdonalds is $15 / hour and pay them 9 bucks an hour. Won't take long for word to pass and folks either stay and go to work for some place else or just quit after realizing how cheap the company is rather than just offering a higher salary for say 2-3 years only until the boom settles down and everything like cost of living in the area equalizes again and then adjust from there. That is how a lot of other companies have handled it. Instead of loosing employees they gave all employees substantial raises good for 2 years and then reevaluate from there. http://sayanythingblog.com/entry/city-of-williston-giving-menards-a-5-7-million-bribe/

Ain't that the truth about the tires about once every 3-4 trips yields something leaving in my tire. Yeah we are a long way from a mill in the Bismarck Mandan area, everything goes out of state on truck or mostly by rail and that is why they are more picky. I forgot about that aspect, I actaully got that from having a conversation with a buyer a few years ago.

I have never been turned away but they did make me take the barbed wire out of the car a couple times. Some scrap yards do take it for free they will not buy old rolled up barbed wire if it is rusty beyond use ect.The main reason is that is plugs up their sheers. Plus if it is rusted to near nothing it is not recyclable.Some have gone to buying it if it isn't rusty but at a lesser than nonprepped price.Around here If you are hauling the cars to a metal recycling center there is no need for a title but if trying to get rid of them at an auto salvage yard then you have to have a title, not sure about the engine part or not here it has been a few years since I hauled cars out.I usually part them out to a point for the individual metals and parts myself too. Next summer I am going to clean up my mother in laws farm and there is a lot of loads of iron to haul out but I am going to try and spend time to get it cut up into prepped size to get the premium price for her. No vehicles just lots of scrap that has piled up over the last 50+ years.We have both metal recycling centers and auto salvage yards and both have different buying practices and rules.We are mixing some info here between the two.To the OP make sure and check both sources if you have it at your disposal, check both metal recycling centers and auto salvage yards.Some are one in the same.

All good points being made, But it comes down to contacting the local salvage or scrap yard to find out exactly what they pay and do and don't accept.Lots of folks used to pile old car bodies full of old barbed and other wire that they normally would not accept and that is what has made them offer a set amount for car bodies and some will inspect the body and if it is full of garbage and wire they have even turned them away or will only accept them for free.Best to check before doing anything. A phone call is easier than a trip for nothing.

Have you checked salvage yards? Its too bad you don't have any Inland Truck Parts and service stores in your area. Wouldn't be a bad idea to give them a call as they specialize in all drivetrain components no matter what the application. I used to work at the Bismarck store for a few years. Wouldn't be too bad to have parts shipped as they are fairly light. http://www.inlandtruck.com/products/transfercase.php

Most scrap iron yards only pay a set amount for cars regardless of the weight, for a compact or midsize you will be doing good to get $100 for it, I think 75-80 is more realistic. You might just advertise on some local site like craigslist or whatever is more popular in your area and sell it as is for a reasonable offer.Do not put the engine inside, sell it seperate as unprepped scrap iron it will be worth more otherwise you get carbody price for everything you stick inside it.I would call to your local scrap yards to see what the going rate is and make a judgement call on wether it is worth your time and fuel to haul it depending on how far you need to haul it to be rid of it.

Welcome to the site.Don't worry about your english, we have lots of folks who grew up with it that still don't have a handle on it.

How many and what size and type of batteries do you need to run that setup?Looks like a nice clean setup.I had a transfer switch installed in my house a couple years ago during a remodel project. I previously had about half a dozen extension cords running throughout the house and had a rotation schedule for our 2 chest freezers and refrigerator.I ran a 5k watt gen with 2 15 amp 110v outlets and 2,20 amp 220v outlets which was not the best but it got us through a couple of week long outages, along with the old gen I now have a new 6500w generac gen with a 30 amp 220v plug to plug into the transfer switch. much easier. I now have a 98% efficient LP furnace that is 110v so I don't have to worry about frozen pipes if have to leave with the gen running.

Same here, its only about 3 feet from the stove.

I see you wandered over from MDC.Welcome aboard.

First thing is to find out if it is fuel or coolant making the oil level rise. I only wish my vehicles could "Make"oil. Then I wouldn't have to buy it or we wouldn't have to pump it out of the ground and have it refined.:tongue:Even better is if it would make fuel. lol...............

air bags are the way to go unless you want your ride qaulity to suffer. To do springs the right way one needs to replace the main spring pack with heavier or more springs, most folks always mess with the overloads but they are for that purpose only, they come into play after the main springs have drooped down.

Unless they changed the tune the Juice didn't have the same tune on level 5, it used to be a bit less power than the comp.Maybe it was on the hot unlock but I remember something about the juice not having as much power on the high setting as a comp.

Took it to town last night on SW#2 Timing default and Torque on #3, everything was quiet and smooth and not agressive in the least.Got home and reprogrammed to SW#3 and Timing at #3 and Torque on #2 will be heading to town for my companies christmas party tonight and will give this setting a go and see how agressive the max Torque setting is.So far I like how much smoother and quieter the thing runs versus the original 3rd gen smarty JR tunes.I have not had a chance to tow anything yet to gauge if it smokes less or not. Anything is better than it was, I never knew I had a chrome bumper or silver rocker panels on the right rear with the old tune the whole corner was always black.

Then I would pull the injector on #3 and inspect and do a compression test as long as the injector is out. Sounds like a bad valve to me. If you can look at both intake valves and see if they look to be about the same height yet under the valve bridge. See if one is higher or lower than the other.

I am going to be installing a set of new 6 bulb LED lights "can't remember what brand right off" on my 2010 in the near future, we started getting them at work and they are very small and come in either High beams or flood light patterns. These things are flat out amazing at how much light they put out. They run on 12-36 volts systems with no changes needed. We get them for $180 each which is a steel for LED tchnology.

Did the spring break on the same cylinder as the broken push rod?Could you post a pic of the broken push tube or describe where it broke?You stated it was an exhaust spring that broke so it should nhave no effect on the intake push tube if it was on the same cylinder, you didn't say which cylinder the exhaust spring broke on but regardles it shouldn't make a difference.Still think something else is physically wrong.

Sounds like there was another issue that caused the pushrod to break. Push rods generally don't just break unless there was some other force in play like a dropped or stuck valve causing the piston to slap it, a stuck rocker arm a broken valve spring ect. Time to pull the valve cover and inspect a bit closer. A compression test may be in order, I would at minimum pull #3 injector and look at the tip for damage if it did drop a valve the tip may have been damaged as well.

Since when are 265 tires "oversized" They were standard on my 02 and every one since 02 has 265 standard as well. Even my 2010 1500 Hemi has 265 tires standard.

Not enough ladies here and no sandy beaches to lay around on.:cry:I would have to pass on the invite to the isle of sausage..:moon:I say we send all of our elected officials and every entitlement dependent voter to that island and we go back to the Constitutional Republic form of Government our founders layed out and take back our country.

From my personal experience the fastest tire wear on my rigs comes on the rear tires in the summer on dry hot pavement while towing. I find that gravel has little effect on how fast a good tire wears. I have seen some tires wear extremely fast on gravel but a high quality AT shouldn't be affected too much unless it has a trailer on back most of the time. I usually drive pretty easy and do not go burning or spinning them as I am cheap and don't like wasting money that way. The fastest way to wear tires out is on wet gravel, wet rubber is way more easily sliced that dry rubber. I can't find the video of a demonstration on an off road mine truck tire where a guy lays the blade of a machette on the tread and tries to hammer the blade into the rubber and it just bounced, he then took a spray bottle of water and wet the same area and did the same thing and it drove the machette blade into the tire with only 2 hits demonstrating how wet rubber and sharp wet gravel would do the same thing.

That gives new meaning to Hookin..........................................up that is.

Not to sound the same way but Tire technology and tire design and compounds do change as well as many new tread designs and tire brands come along so any new info is always welcome, so there!

I got 85K out of the original BF goodrich rough country tires on my 05, I could have gotten about 5-10K more I think but they were getting pretty thin for winter use. I now have Hankook dynapro ATMs and they seem to be doing well, have 20k on them and they hardly show any wear yet.I have run Yokohama in the past and had great success with them, They have a not so aggressive look that is very deceiving, those things dug better than a lot of at's I have run over the years. Got pretty good mileage from them too.On my Hemi I have Wild country at's and they are ok too.Overall I like the BF Goodrich tires for overall longevity and durability.I got 85K out of a set of 285/75/16 BF AT's years ago and sold them to a friend who put another 20K on them before they were smooth. I had them siped when new and that will help with longevity on any tire too. I had thousands of miles of gravel miles and a lot of that with a trailer on and they did not chunk out like some claim siped tires will do on gravel.