Wild and Free

I was waiting on someone to touch on this, it is a whole other subject, Bigger suction lines are good too "To a Point" They should be a size bigger than the lines you are feeding, " this too depends on weather it is a scavenge or gravity fed pump and weather or not the liquid source is under pressure or at atmospheric or slight vaccuum but it too comes down to pump capabilities as is everything else we are talking on and as you pointed out we need to bring up a point of pumps now, The factory pump was designed to fail as it was designed as a pusher pump and was not intended to "Scavenge" for fuel it was supposed to be as close to the tank as possible. Had it been a gravity fed pump or at least close to the fuel level and not engine mounted they would have been much more reliable. - - - Updated - - - Sorry for derailing the thread and not directly answereing the poor guys basic question. Get the banjo bolt upgrades and get the line kit between the filter and Vp44 use the stock filter with a 7 micron fleetgaurd filter which is all you can get from Mopar now and sit back and relax and be glad you saved a few buck and didn't spend anymore money and waste your time on things you don't actually need. I ran a Fass HPFP150 "Overkill, a 95 would have been way more than enough" for about 8 years and ran it off the factory intake off the top of the tank and never once had an issue with fuel pressure, Had 3/8 line all the way but did get the 1/2 inch line kit between the filter and vp but that was more so for the ease of adding things like sensors and switches ect. I was at 560 hp for reference and competed in racing and powerpulls and never once ran out of fuel with an unloked Hot comp HRVP44 and 155 sticks.

There is a science behind schematics and engineers at different companies have different reasons for the different style of schematics they use and it varies between countries as well. I like the block schematics as to what you are trying to achieve which shows the entire rig on one single page, the problem with this is they are huge and get overwhelming to read unless they are laminated and you have dry erase markers to outline and trace out the circuits, What Dodge does is a combination of Block and ladder where they break out sections or seperate functions and then chase you to a different page for many different wires. Then there are ladder schematics where you can chase individual wires through subsequent pages but these wind up being a 100 page novel schematic. There are no perfect schematics I can say as I use about every style weekly, there are pros and cons to every style. You have to remember the basics of electrical theory and troubleshoting and you eliminate the need for doing what you are trying to do, That is why there are troubleshooting guides in the service manuals to help follow set problems. From what I see is you get too caught up in the science of the details you forget the basics, You are looking through a spotting scope to see the ant on the hill half a mile away when it is actually crawling up your nose.

I am not sure of the flow rate of the pump but it is a small " fit in the palm of your hand" fixed displacement engine mounted mechanical driven gear pump and they run a regulated "Orificed fitting post pump" system pressure of around 18-28 psi depending on the application.

It comes down to the fittings the same as the restrictive banjo fitting on our rigs. The factory line will " except for the wee thing between the fuel canister and Vp44" supply the needs of 90% of the rigs out there unless making super Hp #'s. I laugh when I go into people shops and they have the 3/4 inch air lines and then use the same 1/4 inch quick connect fittings on the gun as they use on every other air tool in the shop, this is where the problem lies. I have seen numeraous 3/4 inch air guns with 3/8 pipe throats on them from factory too, all the 3/4 inch air line in the world will not overcome the restrictive fittings. Our rigs have enough flow to handle all the needs an a whole lot more with 3/8 line if one just gets the better flowing banjo bolts. Back to your comment several threads back about hot rods and equipment running at rated speed ect, My example of our big 2000hp trucks are no different that a pickup as far as driving goes, regular foot pedal and they go from wide open to idle all day long they accelerate just like a car 6 speed automatic and all. And still only a 1/2 inch fuel line feeding the monsters.

Have you taken the Edge comp completely out of the mix and tried that yet? It neds to be completely unhooked from the engine.The other thing that can change timing is a bad reading from the AIT air intake temp sensor. Also could be the start of a dying vp44, the first symptoms with my 02 came with similar simptoms as you describe with cruise on and off and it soon developed into a no start when warm, mine also started surging just a bit with cruise on too.P0522 Oil Pressure Voltage Too Low Oil pressure sending unit (sensor) voltage input below theminimum acceptable voltage. Make sure it is plugged in or a wire is not pulled out of a connector or broken. I would have to look at the schematic and see if this sensor gets a 5V signal, if it does this could indicate an ECM issue if the 5v signal is not there.

That pic Brought back memories of our late Male Red Heeler Sam only it would have been the whole tree, he was a water fetching nut, he would see and retrieve whole 30-40 foot cotton wood trees he would see floating down the Missouri river and actuall get them back to shore even if it took half an hour. A lot of them were so big it would take to people to move them, He was built like a tank and knew how to use his muscle. Everyone knew him and loved him, he would ride on the back of our Sea Doo watercraft as well and that would get everyones attention too.

I love big line kit questions. I have yet to figure out how a 5.9 litre engine needs a 1/2 inch fuel line when for comparison our Cat 789 trucks with a 61 litre 4210 cubic inches 3516 engines with 2,000 horsepower with 4 turbos that runs at 2100 rpms runs off of a single #8 or 1/2 fuel line.I have asked this over many many forums over the years and have yet to get any good answers.:doh:Oh yeah ...........It sells lots of parts,Be realistic, the only restrictions are the banjo fitting at the pump and fuel filter housing, upgrade these and go with 3/8 and be done.

If what you have in your sig is everything and assuming a stock hx35 turbo along with an Edge I would have to say the 350 mark would be closer to reality with a stock auto.

Check all the boots and clamps between the turbo and intake and then inspect the intake itself for a blown gasket and same with exhaust manifold although that usually sounds like a tick but not always. I would not think a clamp post turbo would result in a whistle sound if he has a free flowing exhaust, whistles come from a pressure source.

I am a bit confused as to what you are trying to accomplish that the schematics don't already show.

No difference in 24v heads. Where is the head cracked at, it is not uncommon for heads to crack? How did they find the crack, magnaflux or ultrasonic x-ray? magnaflux isn't always a real good indicator, lots of good parts are thrown away dur to it, UTI testing is the best and most accurate way of looking for cracks.If it is truely cracked I would find out where before looking for another one, there are non critical areas that would still deem it useful.

3rd gens are known for injectors going bad and burning holes in pistons or washing down the cylinder walls. Sounds like it is time to pull the head and see what is hurt.

Sounds like it is getting air in the system. I would check all the fuel lines for line deterioation or damage or loose clamps or fittings. The 12valves are notorious for having the fuel lines get rotten. Wish I had a dollar in my pocket for every inch of fuel hose I have replaced on them.

It is a complete assembly all the functions that are controlled by it are the turn signals headlight dimmer washer and wiper control and it bolts to the steering column behind the steering wheel, just need to pull the cowling off the column behind the wheel and there are 2 screws that clamp it to the column and one connector, takes about 10-15 minutes to change.

I could have sworn I posted in here already, anyhoo yeah like I know I posted here once already they will always charge an hour minimum even though it takes a few minutes, the techs love those flat rate jobs.

Sounds like your multifunction switch is bad.

Just swap the ecms from the 00 to the 02 engine, IIRC the reason for 00 and up is the sensors are different there are different connectors on the AIT and or MAP sensor and the cranck sensor is different. from the older to newer. Just what I recall but don't quote me, you will have to look it over close.

ND is wishy washy on open carry, I am comfy with it but a lot are not. To open carry in ND you must have a CCW permit anyhow and there is nobody that promotes it at all, law enforcement ccw instructors ect. Even though ND is a very pro gun state this is one subject that never gets touched. I personally have mixed feelings about it, around my own property and in the country I tend to open carry but around town I will conceal, but ND law makes it tough to conceal carry in town while shopping one can't wear in bars churches gaming facilities schools and public gatherings which is the one that leaves the law open and is vague. This is what they would like to clarify too in some bills.One of the Bills introduced in the ND legislature is to loosen some of the CCW restrictions to be able to carry in churches and public school events only with permission from church officials and local school administrations.Church leaders have testified in commitee meetings for it but school officials have been mixed to more so against it so it will be interesting how the vote will go.

What did you use for the pilot shaft, a bearing or bushing?

So how do I go about changing this? Use a different browser? Or is there a setting on my PC to do this?

The ND legislature is in session now and there are several pro gun bills introduced in both the House and Senate that are trying to loosen some CCW laws and to follow in the footsteps of other states to refuse to enforce any gun control laws the feds dream up. Lets hope they actually pull through!

What is in the browser history when I double click the back button is the link below, it doesn't show up in the normal browser history only in the spot where I want to go to a prior page. http://googleads.g.doubleclick.net/page So you are saying the only way to avoid this is to load a different browser and nothing I can do as a security setting on my PC? I have been hearing a lot of good things about startpage and was thinking about going with them as my browser but not sure this will help with my current issue.

These are the ads on the pages that load along with the original page but you never see unless you look at the dropdown menu from the back button and see there are 6 or more google ad doubleclick cookies ahead of the original page and yes you have to click many times really fast to get to the original page, you never actually see the pages it just seems locked onto the page you are on not letting you go back that single page. Not all computers do like mine, some just need a single or double click to back up but I am thinking that I just need to reset something on my browser to lock this out. Its not all sites either just a few, for instance Infowars.com I read daily and this is the worst one, open the home page and then click on a story and then it takes many clicks to go back to the original page on my computer or I have to right click the back button and click on the original page which is at the bottom of the list as there are many cookie pages loaded above it.

I just tried their site and it comes up a blank white page.That sucks if true, all the folks with their products now potentially SOL on support.