Wild and Free

Nothing like backing into performance...............always start with the weakest link and progress from there. VB and converters always first mod on autos in 2nd gens and better clutch on manuals. Then we go to gauges and then engine mods. I am a driveline bullet proofing junky, engines are always second in my book.

I agree on bigger injectors, either RV 275 or 40 - 50 hp aftermarket.

My question is does your "Okole" Hawian for "Butt" really feel wet after sitting in them or do they come with complimentary big people daipers to keep your Okole dry? :whistle:Please don't tell me that is a barrel of one of them BAD BAD killer weapons I see on the floor of the back seat in the first post.

I ran one on my 02 but only because I got it at SO VP price, I would have never bought one for the extra 500++ bucks they want for them. After running one I would not go for another as the gain versus extra cost are not worth it, there are better mods to be done. Had no issues with it other than a lope at idle as it was combined with other fueling mods. - - - Updated - - - So you are saying that all the folks with an HO pump shouldn't be running any comp box at all? It is nothing but a combination of SO and HO pump parts some companies do some internal work also but not all. Runs the pressure and timing of the HO pump with the fuel volume of the SO pump to keep things at a very simple explanation. There are the more aggressive Vp pumps that are hotter than the standard Hot rod pump that have a lot of internal mods done.

You options are very limited with your stock exhaust, best off getting a cheap 4inch system Usually aluminized diamond eye with a 30 inch FTE resonator. $300 range for all new turbo back and your done.

30 inch FTE resonator mounted as far forward as possible, keeps the cab quiet and quiets the exhaust but keeps it noticable. If wanted then run a muffler behind that. The 17.5 inch resonator quiets the cab drone but keeps a straight pipe sound, the 30 inch resonator quiets both down. http://www.ftediesel.com/store/pc/viewPrd.asp?idproduct=24&idcategory=7

Interesting, I have not researched electric fans for several years but thought there were a few that would outflow the oem fans. I do know that front mount fans are worthless versus rear mount fans. I hear nothing but bad reviews from front mount fans as they block air flow and can't push as much air as a rear mount fan actually pulling air.I know a few guys running Horton fan systems but that is even too rich for my blood.:spend:I know 2 guys who hot shot heavy loads for a living one a 12v and one an 06 CR and both run with no fan at all and they both claim better fuel mileage and no difference in temps while running open road no matter the conditions but see warm temps while in trafic or town but don't need to do a lot of this driving.I know of many folks running their rigs as general DDers with no fan at all as well with no issues.I do realize speed is a huge factor along with other things.

We can only hope they are members of Oath keepers or at least honor the oath they took. I am fully suportive of the Oath Keepers organization http://oathkeepers.org/oath/

Personally I would ditch the viscous clutch / fan assembly and install a High cfm electric fan setup before doing a cooler swap. Frees up more HP and flows more air.

I never had factory fogs on my 02 but have them on my 05 and I never use them as I consider them useless as well, I think my dome light would throw as much light as far as the factory fogs do. But my posts in the other thread state my preference.

lol!!! I have selective reading syndrone too often myself bad habit of scan reading, and selective hearing according to my wife but I have a good reason with 75% hearing loss in one ear and 25% loss in the other.

Thats what I am running, always had a sucked up filter indicator with 2 inch filter switched to a 4 inch drop in and it has never budged since.

Sounds like you need better retarders, having a good retarder is better than any braking system on the planet. When I worked at Inland truck parts and service we installed Telma electro magnetic driveline mounted retarder systems on all school buses sold in the western part of Montanas mountain country, it is a law they have secondary braking systems there and the Telma is the primary system. Look them up, sounds like your municipalities need to get into something like this. http://www.telmausa.com/Telma_htm/default.htm

He already has a built tranny! You both missed the first sentence in this thread and the reason he now wants a power upgrade.

Get a comp and forget the EZ.:thumbup2:If I were to do the 24v second gen thing again I would go with a TST comp instead of the Edge comp. Tend to be a better quality product from all I know of out there. Edge has gone down hill a lot the last several years in quality.

After reading your stories about #4 line I just checked mine, 8 years and 105K miles, never been disturbed and still tight.

Below is a link to a picture of what you need to look for, looks like a small cup with a ball in it like a zerk has. http://s78.beta.photobucket.com/user/Dount_Gestapo/media/FrntDriveLubePt.jpg.html#/user/Dount_Gestapo/media/FrntDriveLubePt.jpg.html?&_suid=1363040364631010178122719296628 And the tool you need to greae it, they come in different types styles and sizes. http://s78.beta.photobucket.com/user/Dount_Gestapo/media/FrntDriveLubePt.jpg.html?#/user/Dount_Gestapo/media/GreaseGunAdapt.jpg.html?&_suid=136304051452502485432625815177

I used to think the same thing but when we got these lights on our mine equipment at work and seeing the abuse they take and the light they put out I figured it was a one and only investment in a light that will last throughout my lifetime of buying lights, I mounted mine on magnets because I have a ranch hand on both rigs and I wired a switch into both with a connector out the front so it takes a minute to swap the pair from one rig to another. Wasn't but a year ago lites like these were around 400 each now at 150 ish they are a bargain, had I not seen them in person and how durable and great they are I would have never bought them either based on someones word alone. I hear ya. But I would never in a million years go back to a halogen or any other bulb that will burn out and draw 4 times as much power and throw less light. I am thinking about getting some for my pontoon and a light bar of some sort for my rigs to, too many choices, I need to call them and get an idea what choice would be best for what I am looking for.

Joecool and Mike you both need to spend some time reading through the site I posted in my last thread but since you both overlooked it, I will post it again, it explains in detail and disproves what you both are trying to say. http://www.rigidindustries.com/Default.asp I can say from running these that there is no sealed beam that will come close to the performance and amount of light that is put out there. This site has tons of info on it and takes some time to digest but well worth the time to learn. It is more about light beam control than the actual lumens these are bright and controlled lights. I have the Phoenix 6 led bulb lights like I posted in my last post as well for reference to what I am talking about. The ones I have shine out just a bit farther than the high beams but have a pattern about 200 feet wide at that distance and it is a natural white light better than daylight almost. Not bad for 2 three inch square lights. They make many different styles of lights that work with any type of mount you want and even make custom mounts for Dodge fog light sockets. They make replacement lenses and protective lenses for the lights as well amd are extremely tough as the videos on the site demonstrate.

The amount of oil he is using in a short amount of miles "5-6 quarts in 4K miles" is beyond what a bad guide seal would leak and these engines have little issue with them in the first place. I would rule them out for this simple fact. If it was leaking past the vavle guide seals that bad I would suspect he would see that at startup.

After reading your sig I now would lean towards worn rings and dusted cylinder walls.You are running K&N filters which are not much better than running no filter at all. I ran one on my 02 for a year and as I watched my oil analysis reports saw silica "Dirt" levels climb along with some wear metals I did some research and found that the K&N air filters have such a course media in them they do not filter out fine dust particles. I pulled off my intake tube to the turbo and it was coated with dust, shined a light through the K&N and light shined through everywhere. Threw it in the garbage switched to an AFE dry filter and my samples cleaned up instantly.So sorry for the bad news but I will go ahead and say you need to do a compression test and most likely an overhaul.

After doing it long enough on any synchronized tranny you will not have a choice but to drive it that way once the synchros are burned up.Then you will find out how big of a pain it is to drive when that is the only way to do it.I would not reccomend it having seen what can happen in many many synchroed trannies that have been abused in this manner and as stated parts for the 5600 are kind of hard to come by in some areas not to mention a real pain in the arse to rebuild compared to a 4500.We won't have to worry about it after a few more years as the manual tranny is almost already a thing of the past.Getting harder to find any vehicles with one anymore including OTR trucks, used to be standard and now is an option on lots of equipment. The new CAT OTR trucks only come with auto trannies, no manual even offered and the trend is gaining momentum.

First I have heard of it, but there is a long debate on wether or not to replace the HPCR lines and cross tubes every time they are removed. From my experience with them on different engines and working with techs from different companies there are no real set answers. Our Detroit dealer replaces them every time they are removed to prevent a warranty claim if even 1 leaks if reused, Cummins techs are hit and miss but Cummins does reccomend replacing them whenever they are removed from the engine, it is a crap shoot. I have 2 co workers with CR cummins and they have both had bad experiences with reusing them after injector replacements and have had them go bad one at a time and had issues while on road trips and wound up getting towed to dealerships for new lines. They are both advocates of new lines and cross tubes everytime they are removed now from having bad experiences with reuse.Really a flip of a coin decision. Another coworker just replaced his injectors and has had a couple lines come loose on him already but refuses to replace the lines or tubes.

With the new LED technology putting out way more light at 1/4 the watts than 100 watt lights why run old school lights that draw that much power? The price and technology of LED lights have gotten great over the last year and keep getting better as more become available. LED is outperforming HID lights and have better life. http://www.rigidindustries.com/Default.asp http://www.amazon.com/Kolpin-Dually-LED-Lights-Pair/dp/B006OZFQ1I http://www.sportsmansguide.com/net/cb/kolpin-dually-led-lights-pair.aspx?a=920791 http://www.beckelectric.com/store/pc/FLOODLIGHT-LED-28W-10-50V-DC-SPOT-PHOENIX-PRODUCTS-MDF28LEDSP-329p420.htm I bought a set of these the last link I posted from work for 178 each before I found a lot of the same lights branded with different names cheaper from other sources I have found above, these lights are absolutely unbelievable.

Those with manual trannies and bigger clutches will notice it a lot more than auto tranny guys will. reason it made such a big difference on my 02 auto was due to having 155 hp injectors stacked with a Hot unlocked comp and an HRVP44 which gave me a lope at an idle when I stacked the smarty on top of all that it sounded like an alchohal injected monster truck sitting at stop lights thats how bad the lope was at idle, off idle smooth as silk, took smarty away and added the Fluid dampner and it was not quite smooth as silk at idle but probably 90% reduction in lope.