mopartechnician
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Everything posted by mopartechnician
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Compressor is controlled by the tipm, and most likely tipm is bad. I have seen it multiple times
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Stay away from purple parts I would suggest goerend parts if possible
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Avoid idleing, if you have to idle enable high idle if its an auto. Run the exhaust brake at all times. As far as filters run fleetguard. Best place to get them is genos.
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I always pull the cover, pop the seal out, clean all the old rtv/gasket out. Then when I install the seal, I use a small chunk of 2x4 laid flat across the seal installer and tap right in the center to make the seal go in straight. Takes a couple of times and seal goes right in. After the frustrating part is done I clean the front of the gear case and clean all the gears up. Finally run a solid bead of rtv on the cover and make a circle around each bolt hole.
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I just did a front crank seal on a pickup last week. It also had a groove in the crank and if you notice the seal should be flush with the cover. With the new seal I drive it in with the seal driver until the seal driver almost bottoms out. Now the seal rides on a different spot of the crank. Problem solved. Been doing it this way for 10 years with no problems
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Actually idle time in calculated on engine load so its impossible to see without the scan tool
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Ive done dozens of them but decided to buy the gould kit to have the tooling and it actually comes with two seal kits. I actually learned a couple tricks from the dvd that i didnt know before. Any oil resistant rtv will work. Ive used grey, black, red and blue. Never had any leak
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Cascadetransmissionparts.com I would change governor pressure sensor, geveenor pressure solenoid, and od solenoid. While you are in there adjust both bands and change the filter. I also add a qt of lucas trans fix to help coat the bands. Im not a transmission expert but the first two parts fix a lot of weird problems but I would chang the od solenoid just to be safe
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Ya its a possibilty to have an accident but I would say its worth the chance
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Make sure you hooked your jumper to the upper plug on the fuse that way the fuse is protecting the relay and you will have nothing to worry about
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It must be internal to the pump because it hooks up just like a fass or a raptor.
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Fuelab is brushless and doesnt use a controller I wonder if running your signal wire to the wiper fuse would help. I have been doing this lately and has been fixing hard start issues. I know this isnt your problem but you never know
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Just because its a bosch doesnt mean the pump is good. What kind of lift pump did you install?
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What lift pump? Have you tried a sniff of ether. I had a cummins in a crop sprayer give me fits bleeding after doing a head gasket. No matter how much I bled it wouldnt start. Gave it a sniff of ether and fired right up. Also just because you have fuel to the head, doesnt mean you have good pressure
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There is a big connector on the firewall just above the engine on the drivers side. It will have a black plastic cover with a bolt running through it. Try tightening that and see what happens.
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One o'clock on drivers and 11 o'clock on passengers. This is looking down at the ball joint and from the back. Both zerks should point towards your front license plate
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Might look at lmctruck.com
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Ive been using thoroughbred diesel. Free shipping and return. Been using them for over a year with no problems
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Down here in nebraska we follow ndsu pretty close as your former coach is a nebraskan, former player and former coach. It still amazes me what they can do with bringing in and developing players to a northern school. Just hope our new coach can do that at nebraska
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Last year we had horrible fuel. I think the gas companies tried to pull a fast one and used summer fuel as long as possible since the winters have been mild. Everybody gelled on every product I can think of. External filters are well known for causing gelling issues because they are exposed.
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Uppers should be greaseable
