mopartechnician

Technically there should be enough heat from the return fuel to keep the tank fuel warm after awhile. Now it can be so cold that the cold could counteract the heating of the fuel. This is where a 12v fuel heater would work.

90 bucks for a heater? And the only ones that would work are the 120 volt. I think heat tape would do the same thing for way cheaper

Nope you are gelling. Mine 01 did it too because the filters and pump are exposed to the cold. I was always going to make a heat shield out of a survival blanket and wrap the filters and pump with heat tape

This is what I get to work in today. Nothing like trying to fix frozen trains in 9 degrees and 30 mph winds I dont know why my picture is sideways. I even rotated it and its still sideways

They should pull in half. Kinda hard to explain. You should see a spot where a small screw driver will fit to pry the two halves apart like half an inch. They the whole piece can be pulled out

I am currently running no additive and dont know if its blended or not. I got it from a high turnover station here in town. Its been negative the last couple of days with no problems. Now my old pickup has the airdog and its currently gelled up from the filters being exposed.

I would never run power service, its complete junk. I compare it to banks, the uneducated use its products

16 below tonight. We actually hit 10 above today. I ended up tearing into a 1990 cummins doing a tappet cover. Had the heater on in the garage all day

I do believe its a sound dampener. I just left mine off.

3 below right now. Glad its my day off. Gonna relax inside

Why not just buy an exhaust brake? I know it isnt cheap to upgrade to a vgt turbo

Nope all internet fodder

In western nebraska we have #2, blended, and #1. Nobody knows when they switch to blended or if they ever do ( had hundreds of diesels gelled last year with about every additive I know of). If you ask the people who work there, they just give you a dumb look Im going to run no additive this winter and see what happens. I filled up this morning at the new maverick station and the pickup sat exposed with 30+mph winds and a high of 19 today. When I started it at around 6 tonight the pickup was idling really weird. But that might of been because I started it without using the intake heater. Also im going to get multiple additives and gallon milk jugs and see what happens when they are exposed to the elements

There is some truth to the injection noise. I moved the pump maybe 15 degrees and it eliminated almost all the noise

No dampners and how is somebody going to know exactly when the injector fires and when the pump pressurizes. Somebody is looking way too far into it

There is no timing because you are just feeding fuel to a rail. Now some people say that you can get rid of some of the pump noise by moving the shaft of the pump slightly to get harmonics out. Some will also say this will cause then to fail quicker. I have moved one pump and it really quited it down. I dont think it will make them wear out any faster either

Low of 10 monday. Tuesday is 15 high 2 low. Wednesday is 13 with a low of two below thursday high of 18 low of 4. Better fill the pickup up with fuel

If you do it right you shouldnt get anything in the lines. And its not hard to take the return line off the t, since the fuel filter is out of the way.

There is a trick that fass uses where you take the positive of the signal wire (out of the quick disconnect harness) and put it to the wiper fuses. The thinking is the lift pump will shut off durning cranking. I know its weird but I have fixed a couple hard starts this way. Its easy to test and to put back if it doesnt work.

Cut the red wire between the relay and engine harness. Splice a length of the same gauge wire to the red wire coming out of the relay. Relocate this wire to a fuse that is hot only in the 'RUN' position. An example is the power window or windshield Wiper Fuse.This will cut power to the FASS or HPFP when cranking.

Cummins is the cheapest but I honestly think it wont fix it from the symptoms you have. I would start first by wiring the fuel pump to the wiper fuse. That has fixed hard starts. Also I would throw a crankshaft sensor at it. I need to look to make sure that is what the tach reads

Nope, you have to remember that an air molucle is so small that it cant be measured. So you can have an air leak but not leak fuel.

The vp is easy to pull. There is a bunch of info on the net on how to pull them. The biggest thing to remember is to get the key-way of the vp facing up so that when you pop the gear off the pump shaft, the key doesnt fall into the front cover. Also when installing the pump, make sure the key is seated and is aligned with the slot in the gear. Im pretty sure the vp has to be pulled in order to get the bolts. But I have never tried since I can have the vp out inaround 15 minutes. The rest of the stuff is pretty easy to see what needs removed and is easy to take off. Once you have the cover off, lay it agaisnt a flat surface to make sure it is truely flat. You really got screwed over on your injection pump. It should of been installed for $1500 tops. Also there is no calibration needed or secrect codes. Since there is a key way in the shaft of the pump and there is only one way for it to go into the gear, than the pump will always be in time if the pump was installed right.

http://www.cumminsforum.com/forum/3rd-gen-tech-articles/150422-3rd-gen-popular-fuel-filter-data.html#/forumsite/20661/topics/150422'>http://www.cumminsforum.com/forum/3rd-gen-tech-articles/150422-3rd-gen-popular-fuel-filter-data.html#/forumsite/20661/topics/150422 Donaldson p551315 or p551313 and then baldwin 1275 I do belive are what you are looking for if its the right sizes

For your stock housing?