mopartechnician

Ok im here to clear some things up. You can leak between the connector tube and injector and it will not leak into the oil. The fuel returns through the return in the head. The o-rings on the injector keep the fuel seperated from the oil. And as far as following the manual to the T, I dont do it. I install injector, start the bolts, install connector tube and use the injector to center the connector tube in the hole. Now on a 3rd gen I start the connector tube nut and hand tighten. Now torque injector bolts, torque tube nut and finally the fuel line. I have never had one leak or hard starts. Now I have nicked the o-ring and instantly caused hard starts. You have to remember, air molucles are tiny so you can have and air leak without a fuel leak. I always use a grease on the o-rings to keep them from getting damaged.

I may be wrong but he said he left the cap off and it still did it

I would honestly be looking at connector tube o-rings. I have pinched brand new ones and it will cause hard starts

2003 are common rail and fuel is measured in flow not pressure. I cant think why fueling up would cause it to die. Unless the cold fuel is seizing up the warm fuel pump or something. Uh he shouldnt have a pump in the firewall. It will be mounted on the back of the fuel filter or if its been modded with a chrysler pump it will be in the tank. Or it could be on the frame near the tank

My first thoughts are to eliminate the edge. I have seen them do crazy things when they go bad. Ill do some thinking because this is a weird one

Upper then lower out. Lower then upper in. But it could depend on how you press them in. The bolt on my press goes through the top hole when pressing in the lower.

I have to ask, are you sure its the pump? Oil dye and a uv light are your friend for oil leaks.

I cant remember the year but it was the newer body style rims are on a buddies 12 valve. So the newer ones must work

Glad you did it. People are amazed at the night and day difference it makes

Ok so its just as bad as metal

Modern atf doesnt burn and actually has small metal particles in it. I would never run it in the fuel

Actually when you idle the vanes shut putting a load on the engine. Its hard to hear until you do an emissions delete then you can really hear it

Ya and that actually doesnt take in to account high idle enabled times. The only way to find that is with a star scan and look at load percentages Oh I forgot, efilive just released tuning for the 2010-2015s today. It could get interesting

Biggest thing to remember is to avoid idleing, use your exhaust brake all the time, and to use the manual high idle if you have to idle. Your miles to idle hours is a little high (28 miles for every hour) so try to work on cutting that down

Welcome from north of you in western nebraska

Totally agree that vm>nissan/cummins. Like I stated before, the cummins is too much power for a half ton and the owners will destroy the pickups pulling what a 3/4 should. Also I heard low 20s for mileage. I will take the dodge any day.

I think it was 3 or 5. People were installing 2 micron filters between the stock housing and cp3. But the testing changed and now they are considered 3 micron filters

If you have the budget I would look at the smarty touch

The biggest way to improve mileage is to drive like you have an egg under your pedal. Honestly you could do the same thing to a dozen pickups and they all would do different mpgs.

Just order a t-stat for a 2012 6.7 I do believe is the year

I figured I would post this for future reference since there is some doubt on this seal. If you ever have the rear output seal (rear driveshaft) go bad, the skf23000 works perfect. Napa is suppose to be able to have it but my local napa was worthless. I ended up buying one off amazon with overnight shipping for $20. Compared to the 50-60 mopar seal. You will need a 3-1/2" or 4" piece of pipe to install it. But it goes right in.

They were replaced for the horrible pump seal design except for the loud one. What I am saying is the newer ones that I got (at least a year ago) have been working just fine

So from what I have read he didnt have the right fittings and he made his own wiring harness? The one I installed had both a wiring harness and a install kit. Just like you would get from fass or pureflow. The only complaint I have is their mount is intended for a long box pickup so on a shortbox the pump doesnt have enough room on the inside of the frame. I would have to look when I installed it but I know it was late winter/early spring of this year. The pickup was just at my house last night and it was still holding great pressure. Also I now wire all pumps to get their trigger power from the wiper fuse.

Just to let you guys know. I have replaced roughly 6 raptors and not one of them have failed yet. Their customer service has been really nice to me and never questioned me on the pumps. Even one that I said was loud. Now Im not saying I would buy another pump from them but you always hear the bad side of things

Can you post a link? I found the build but could find what you are talking about