mopartechnician

I always do a b&m trans drain plug and put it in the pan. The side of the trans is not very accurate. The hot line of the trans is the most accurate with the pan being 2nd most. This also will allow for cleaner transmission services since you can drain your pan Quad gave you the option to use the sensor as a trans temp or oil temp (on top of the oil filter housing) that way the manual trans guys could use the sensor

Ohm the wire to ground

Unhook anything on the harness. Its pretty simple

Thats what I don't understand, ecm controls all engine control stuff. The Pcm (on the firewall) controls everything else. But, the service manual states different, and I can only find the one wiring diagram with the wires running to the pcm. I would ohm out both wires and see what you get.

This gauge is controlled by the instrument cluster circuit board based upon cluster programming and electronic messages received by the cluster from the Powertrain Control Module (PCM) on vehicles equipped with a gasoline engine, or from the Engine Control Module (ECM) on vehicles equipped with a diesel engine over the Programmable

Fuel gauge runs through the ecm on a diesel. Runs to the pcm on a gasser. I will find where it said that i dont understand why its this way

Double

I think a loose band will actually cause your condition

You need to ohm the ground wire at the connector to ground. You already know your signal wire works since you grounded it out and the gauge moved And the black wire is ground

Have you pulled codes to see what is actually wrong?

I I was wrong there are only two wires used. A ground and a signal wire Connector 129 is behind the drivers front wheel well. Connector 130 is at the fuse box

12 volts will be fine for a test. Now if you dont have the 5 volt supply than you need to find where its bad. I will look at wiring diagram when I get a chance

Its 5 volt if i remember right and I do belive the gauge should move just like it did

Adjust bands

Its very common. What i have seen is the hold down clamps become loose and start to vibrate and wear a hole in the line. A buddy of mine had his truck burn to the ground because of it. I have installed the updated lines but have only about 6 months on it

Actually they are on relays just like the leds. I am just hesitant anymore. Extra lights arent worth a$700+ tipm

I had hid's that blew my tipm. I dont trust anything on those tipms anymore

You also have to be careful with the tipm modules. If they see too many amps or resistance they freak out. You might want to just wire them up on their own switch, espcially for the law

Tighter will shift better. Were the governor pressure sensor and solenoid changed to upgraded parts?

Injector return isnt hard on anything. The only thing that happens is hards starts (obviously) and poor mileage because I do believe rail pressures are dropped. As far as injectors if you have the money BBI's. If not pm me and I can discuss stuff with ya What did the shop previously do to do their testing?

551315 is your main filter on airdog, 1275 is the water seperator on airdog and if you run through stock housing, use baldwin pf7977

Baldwin P551315 for your main and baldwin BF1275

Yes needs to be signal wire. I cant remeber if its power or ground that will peg the gauge. Im thinking its power

You can take the connector loose and ground out or put 12 volts to the signal wire. That will tell you the wring and cluster are good Also the sensor wire goes straight into the ecm. Its the dark blue/white wire

I have found that the cheapest pads were the best. They never make noise like the ceramics