mopartechnician

Yep its been snowing since 7 and finally sticking. Currently 33. (62 in anchorage, alaska). Rancers still havnt got their first cutting of grass out because its been so wet. Starting to dig spuds right now, beans are cut and "drying" and sugar beets are close. But its going to be set back now

Air starters?

Ya dyed fuel is bad. We both are describing similar situations that will always take injectors out. At my work i can count 2 guys running vps, 1running a p-pump, and off the top of my head 18 common rails. At least 3 of the common rails owned vp trucks before In my situation I was always worried about vps, tps, sensors, tq issues, fuel pressure. With my common rail, once I do injectors I wont worry about anything

Im in an ag community also but 95% of the dodges out here are common rails. Too many things go wrong on the 2nd gens imho

My 06 currently has 223,000 on stock injectors and the stock fuel system. I would say they average around 100,000 miles easily. Most often the return gets high on them and that is why they are changes. Also high idle times take out injectors (stick them open). The less common problem is the electrical side of the injector going bad. Good injectors rebuilt by bosch are around 360 each. Completly new injectors are around $550 each. 6.7s are around the same price. The biggest thing is filtration. The 6.7s arent as bad because they have better filtration and are built better. Any little particle going through the injectors are like a sand blaster espcially at 25,000 psi. You cannot compare CR injectors to 12v or even vp injectors because the tollerances are tighter as well as the injector is firing atleast 3 times as much as the mechanical injectors. So obviously they are going to wear out quicker. And the people that idle thier pickups just amaze me. 3rd gens need a 2 micron fuel filter setup

I do believe the donaldson is the best depending on the filter number

You should have it wired to wiper fuse so the lp stops while cranking. Sorry if I wasnt clear

Im surprised we dont have more in western nebraska. There is a ton near colorado/nebraska border. I know one guy that lives next to one and he said they make a very deep sound 24/7 and he is going nuts being around them. Im all for coal for obvious reasons

Ya flex plates will rattle espcially during shut down

Tach is following crank sensor. Could be a sign

Ive done it a dozen times and never pulled injectors. Never had any problems. I used a little lube on the o-rings and push until they click. There are some alignment balls on the connector tube that will point straight up when aligned. You will know what im talking about

It goes through the fuel return in the head. The only place to get fuel in oil is the injector or injector o-ring. I would try connector tube o-rings first. They are easy to do

Connector tubes will not leak into your oil. Its returns to the tank via the line on the back of the head. Connector tube o-rings will cause hard starts when engine is cold and not when warm. Try running your raptor on a keyed hot and see if it helps

Here

All aftermarket quality lower ball joints are greasable with a grease zerk in the upper corner of the ball joint. The cheaper ones have a zerk that you grease them once they are in and then you remove the zerk and install a plug. Look up carlini and dynatrac for reference

Ive installed them on the last two pickups I have done ball joints on

Check out xrf. Make sure the lower is greasable. The grease zerk will go in the top corner of the ball joint not the top center like the upper ball joint. Those are only greaseable once while installing

No the connector tubes are only connected to the fuel return in the head. Will cause your rail pressure to drop since your pressure is going back to the tank. The spec used to be 37 ft lbs. But Im thinking they are doing something like 40-41 ft lbs

I would check your lift pump flow. I cant remember specs and not at home so i cant remember. Next thing to do is torque connector tubes and check valve lash.

See if your dealer will run a vin inquiry for the service history. We would do that all the time for people

Pull driveshafts and rotate all the u-joints. Shouldnt have any grinding or catching. Like said check for any spots where a weight fell off. If you do have u-joints I use a bfh and a vise for beating. I cant use a press because it takes too long

The title says r48 so i assume he is talking about an 48re trans in a 3rd gen. That would be my guess

Governor pressure sensor and solenoid. Adjust bands, change fluid, change filter, and I add a bottle of lucas trans fix. Also make sure its the upgraded solenoid. It will be larger than stock and non-magnetic. I get mine from cascadetransmissionparts.com

I would take a 3rd gen over a second gen any day. Now that i got another megacab i will never go back to a 2nd. My pickup currently has 223,000 miles on the original injectors.

Lift pumps on the 3rd gens and above are nothing like the 2nd gens. As far as filtering you can buy a 2 micron fuel setup with a water seperator but nothing cleans out the water like the stock housing. It just didnt filter down enough