Hawkez

Will the wiring be long enough to route to that point? That would interest me as well.

If I am reading it right it should be a 40A fuse in the PDC, #8.

It would be less restriction and that is good for the lift pump as it isn't going to work as hard. It will also add volume which could decrease heat at the VP44 and allow for better cooling and lubrication.

Good for you for catching that and good on them making it right. As great as it is to buy stuff over the internet it does have its disadvantages as well. Hopefully the next one will be good to go.

If you want I can PM you my address and I'll test it out for you.

I don't think I have black and white photos of myself....I think I missed that era.

Geno's has them for $32. http://www.genosgarage.com/product/gould-gg03xp-vpsk/engine-rebuild-kits-2

Before putting money into a new IP make sure that your fuel system in good to go. Do you have a fuel pressure gauge in the cab? How is your fuel filter? I would suggest adding the 2 cycle oil, it is pretty cheap and worth it in my opinion. Also, as it has been pointed out, check your alternator. I would hate to see someone install a new IP just to have their alternator burn up another pump.

I installed the comp last night and then the wife and I took it for a ride down the road . I was impressed. I was surprised at how simple the install went. I printed off the article from this site and used that to install the comp and the stealth plate. Very happy so far, now to get used to it. Thanks for all the help!!

I stopped into DAP to buy my injectors and asked if they still had any of these for purchase. I guess I'll get in line with the rest of you and wait until these are available. Hopefully the bank is in a good mood that day so I can pull the trigger and buy one.

I guess I'll just play around with it. I was wondering if you would all offer some "DON'Ts" to prevent me from breaking something. When I am pulling and usually have a keen eye on my EGTs so I'll experiment with it and go from there. Of course, all this depends on if I can get installed.... Thanks for the help

I will be installing my edge comp tonight and then next week it is time to go Elk Hunting. I've pulled my trailer plenty of times with my truck but this will be the first time with the comp installed. Is there any wisdom that you all have learned that you would like to pass along. I have read through the literature that came with the comp, but what setting do you prefer? I am not looking for smoke and squealing tires, but I would like the power when towing an mileage when not towing. any advice would be great. Thanks,

Battery terminals?

So...are there codes? Is your check engine light on? The shop says it is fine now, does that mean everything is working?

Your girlfriend drives a truck? You may want to hold on to that one. Even better that she has her own...you don't have to worry about that awkward hesitation when she asks, "can I drive your truck?"

What about a shell for your truck? I know it isn't always super convenient to get things that are near the cab, but it would be cheaper? However, if you are more interested in a cool project I think that would be awesome.

Thanks Wild&Free. I was only opening them a quarter turn or so. I went out and opened them up a full turn and it started withing 30 seconds or so. It seems to be running smooth and no leaks....that I can see. Now to let it sit and hope that it will hold prime.

When you crack the fuel lines at the head, how far to you open them? Is this just a quarter turn? or more than that?

I went out this morning and still can't get it to start. I have cracked the fuel lines and I still don't see any fuel coming from them while I am cranking. Any ideas?

The carter pump is still installed but I have a Fuel Boss that is my lift pump. The Carter is only used to prime the system.

I still have the carter pump and it runs after I bump the starter. I cracked the lines at the head. I give it another go as soon as the sun comes up. Thanks

I changed the injectors yesterday, it was my first time doing that. For the most part everything went well, usless you count me dropping a screw driver twice in between the intercoooler and radiator. While I was in there I adjusted the valve lash and that went pretty well. I took a picture of my cross over tubes, as this is the first time pulling them, I didn't know if this was normal. The o rings were all still in place but you can see how they had deformed and created a mess above their groove. Everyone of them were like this. The o rings themselves were all still in tact but in pretty bad shape, not sure how much longer they would have gone before I would have seen problems. I carefully cleaned them up and installed new orings. After everything was hooked back up and began to bleed and prime the fuel system. I cracked my fuel line, and got nothing. I loosened the banjo on the return line at the IP and I got fuel pushing from there. I cranked on and off for a good ten minutes and never got anything fuel at the head. My batteries finally died so I will give it a second go this morning. I can't see fuel leaking out of any of the connections behind the VP44, I feel those connections are good. Will it usually take this long to prime after an injector change? I do appreciate the wealth of knowledge on this site. I had my wife iPad on my work bench and I was swapping between articles.

There were some pictures floating around on this site but I don't know where they are. Here is what mine look like.

I got my hands on some old campaign signs and cut my winter fronts from that. I painted them black and they look fine when they are installed. It was cheap and they won't deteriorate with moisture.

A simulator training test? My Utah CCP isn't due for renewal until next year but I've never had to take a test to get my permit.