volkswagon

The old one would give a good 10 degree of temp sway and would rarely keep the engine at 190. The new one had probably a 20 degree sway and running on fast idle it'd only hold about 175 degrees. My cab heat only blows good warm air at 190 so i need it to stay up there. These ones I have here have 2 little holes in the plate beside the spring with little brass do-dads in them to allow a wee bit of water to bypass. Is this the proper bypass method? I thought I'd seen a pic of an cummins tstat that didn't have those things.

If I err not that's what it is. I'm sure my owners manual says 12000 km. I'd go out and look but it's cold, windy, and snowing right now:rolleyes:

AH can you explain to me what the Secondary rating and Secondary %age mean on your chart?

I go 12000 km which is 7500 miles. I wouldn't be afraid of more. I did some oil samples on our tractor and at 450 hours the oil was testing perfect. The recommended interval is 250 so I think anything less than manufacturers specs is overkill.

Could you explain what the diff is? I just put in a new one and it is junk. They're going to replace it but I wonder if I should just spend the big bucks and get a genuine cummins one.

Hey Caj, are you fussy about what brand of tstat you use? I just put in a new Stant brand and it is junk. Worse than the old one. I priced out from Dodge and Cummins and they were both in the $100 range so I went with the $40 Stant. My old one was not OEM but i forget exactly where I got it from.

Wow those are some amazing facts! Thanks for posting them. Makes a person pretty thankful for what we have today.

According to a rpm/mph speed chart that ISX posted here somewhere I should have had 3.55's but in reality I have 4.10's so I guess they make that much difference.

Yeap there has been several updates... Just called them and found out version 3.15 is out and I've got the orignal 3.0 software... So I'm going to ship mine back for a free software update... Well I just got mine, run 2 tanks of fuel with it in fact, surely it would have the most current software. Just checked mine and it is version 3.17. I sure wish it showed gph like gassernomore's...

Nothing like that. It was securely fastened and looked like new:shrug: I took it to town yesterday and found that if I would hit SET, then as it was accelerating I would hit DECEL a bunch of times I could get it to stabalize and hold a steady speed. But as soon as I had to cancel it the process started all over. This really bugs me because before the vaccum line broke it worked perfect but now that i fixed it I have this problem:mad: The line was broke for a few weeks before I got to fixing it so I thought maybe some corrosion had started in there somewhere but there was none when I took the module apart. I have all new vaccum lines under the hood too. I capped off the line going to the transfer case to check if there was a leak that way but it made no diff so I'm pretty sure there's no leaks.

Mine rub on the lower control arms too at full turn. But I wouldn't advise going up in size, you'll lose mpg's. I know they look nice but I'm pretty dissappointed in mine mpg wise and think I'll drop back down next time. I've got Toyo open country m/t's.

I recently got a scangauge and it shows 0.00 gph when idling or on fast idle. Is this normal or is there a setting to change? I can't see how it can be accurate on mpg if it doesn't record idling time.

There was nothing to clean on them so I lubed them up and it works the same as it did:mad:

Well I took this thing apart and everything is clean as can be. No rust or corrosion so is there anything I should do besides just put it back together?

Thanks ISX. I'm gonna try that as soon as I have a chance but it might be a few days, work is busy now and I drive one of their trucks. I'll let you know how it goes.

My cruise started acting up a while ago. I would set it but it seemed like it wasn't working but if I hit accel a bunch of times it would start to hold. After a while it didn't work at all and when I had time to look at it I found a broken vac line. I fixed that and now I set it and it just pulls it to WOT Any ideas for me? And could someone explain how the thing works?

Thanks VW, so are all group 27 750cca?

Those are 750 cca.

Just out of curiousity why wouldn't you get the computer reflashed to accomodate the big tires? Besides then your speedo would be right too! I got mine done when I put on my 285's and they didn't even charge me to do it:thumb1:

I just priced out batteries yesterday and the guy told me that these trucks take a group 27 I believe but he said guys are putting in group 31's. They're an inch longer and take a little bending of the hold down or something like that. They are 1010 cca versus 750 for the group 27's. I'd gladly do some modifying to get the higher amps. Besides they were about $10 a piece cheaper:thumb1: Just my on the matter.

I've always heard that making pets out of wild animals is a bad idea. They say you just can't get the 'wild' totally out of them and some day it will come out. This obviously isn't the case here and I wonder what you'd have to say about it.

I got the black face, black bezel, orange pointer ones. 0-40 psi fuel, pyro, trans temp, and 0-40 boost. 3 gauge pillar mount and a steering column mount. Is this the info you wanted?

Yup she's good:thumb1:

Well I guess I had a really blonde moment. I thought the heavy black wire coming out of the PDC was a ground but IT IS NOT:cookoo: I closer look revealed that it is a power wire taking power to the grid heater i think. So no wonder things weren't working. Everything is fine now though and thanks for the quick help:thankyou: