Me78569

nope

not anymore it got nixxed as we ran out of room in the data stream and most people wouldn't understand that wiretap was controlled with a base map so they would complain about "only getting %80 wiretap" when at 2200 rpm vs 2800 rpm

There is a setting for MPG offset that needs to be set as well. App > settings > mpg offset 24 mpg pure highway was pretty easy for me with 7 x .012's but I spent a lot of time in tuning. Canbus fueling is the meat of your fueling. you want to use as much canbus fueling as possible before smoke happens and then use wiretap up top to keep power high in the rpm band.

https://mopar1973man.com/forum/185-standard-quadzilla-adrenaline-tunes/

the vehicle profile needs to match the base tune. once the profile is changed to be v2 you will see 36 some odd tuning variables.

all conditions have to be met for for wiretap to apply. that 11% cruise is stellar really. My truck cruised at %18 with my 7 x .012's

mpg meter needs to have the mpg offset setup and the trans and tire size inputted. What load % do you see at cruise?

did you change your vehicle profile from 1998-2000 to 1998-2002 v2?

I doubt you would feel much difference honestly. given the air and fuel you have i would think a setting of 1600 will run really good.

fuel stretch is added duration via Wiretap. Pushing wiretap to 2200 results in a VERY long injection of the fuel because the fueling solenoid is open so long and the engine rotates more. This leads to a less than effiecent burn. you get more torque at low rpms because you are injecting more fuel, but you aren't doing it effiecently so your hp tends to fall. happy medium is normally 1800

looks good to me. Since you have studs I would max timing at 3000: rpm and bring up the timing some in the 2500 area that will pull a lot harder

your canbus fueling % is too low so you are having to use a ton of tps input to move down the road. The TV cable is being pulled pretty far and your shift points are moved higher in the rpm range. Laggy will go away once you figure out the sweet spot. find the point where you get darkish haze from the tail pipe then start messing with timing.

add a few % of canbus fuel in the 0-5psi area then smooth the 5+ psi curve. One thing you really need to do is figure out how much fuel you can throw at it before you get smoke. My guess is you can run a lot more fuel than I could since you are at sea level. Use Valet mode setting to figure out your starting % for canbus fueling. Start at %80 then increase or decrease that % until you find the right amount.

you aren't running V2 tunes, you need to update your quad.

doesn't look like you are running V2 tunes. I would update your box to run V2 and then choose the V2 vehicle profile. That will resolve your issues.

I had that thought about every time I drove mine lolol

I would be looking at your fan clutch if it is not locking at 225*f. I only ever saw prolonged 225*f was pulling from silverthorn to the top of the tunnel and the fan locked and it was obvious. Good info as always @AH64ID Given 3.55's and 35" tires you might need to stick to 3rd when pulling big hills.

We have a pretty good list of tunes built up if you are running V2 tunes https://mopar1973man.com/forum/185-standard-quadzilla-adrenaline-tunes/ Really want it comes down to is you should start with lvl1. Set your valet mode power % at 80. do a WOT take off. Are you happy with power vs smoke? If you want mroe power increase valet mode % by 5 and repeat until you are happy. Once you hit dark haze your truck really isn't going to get any faster so that is what you are looking for.

I know I have a bias to quadzilla, I wrote the thing it is allowed lol, but I really did try VERY hard to open up as much data and info as possible to explain the black box of the vp44 system. I am not Cat Calling TST, the revised version of the chart has the correctly labeled pm3 and info that is correct for it WITH a notation about the Comp and redline and Quad 4k. It is as factual as I can make it. If you have something to add or edit please let me know. I am not interested in a Quadzilla or nothing type topic, I think I have proven that. fYI here is a Quadzilla dyno vs stock because you asked ( I dont know why) http://www.cumminsforum.com/forum/98-5-02-performance-parts-discussion/229737-please-post-dyno-results.html#post2460183 Not from me or anyone related to quadzilla. 150 hp over stock 43x ft/lb over stock another Quad http://www.cumminsforum.com/forum/98-5-02-performance-parts-discussion/229737-please-post-dyno-results-4.html#post4273350 332 HP 952 TQ I dont believe the torque numbers for a second. Another quad http://www.cumminsforum.com/forum/98-5-02-performance-parts-discussion/229737-please-post-dyno-results-5.html#post4392607 300 hp 715 tq. Again huge difference in 3 stock injector trucks with the same tune. Edge stock injector http://www.cumminsforum.com/forum/98-5-02-performance-parts-discussion/229737-please-post-dyno-results-2.html#post2536280 360 hp and 74x ft /lb another edge stock injector http://www.cumminsforum.com/forum/98-5-02-performance-parts-discussion/229737-please-post-dyno-results-2.html#post2536280 374 and 895 ft /lb All stock injector trucks, and VASTLY different number between them. All dyno numbers prove is that they are unreliable when you are measuring using 2 different dynos. we are talking about %20 difference in numbers between the same setup trucks. as another example TST's hp chart shows a stock truck at 170hp to the wheels, the first dyno sheet shows 210 hp to the wheels, my truck did 195 hp to the wheels for emissions. We are talking about a 30-40 hp difference in starting dyno numbers that is being used as a baseline. for all these HP over stock numbers.

The only thing I am saying is it does not make sense when we look at numbers for a wiretap only box to add 180 over stock on a stock injector truck. Same for the quad 180 hp over stock is marketing with help from a nice Dyno. You admitted that 280 hp from stacking the tst with ts was too high and then said 175-200hp over stock is what you guess. If the comp did 180 by itself you are suggesting that the ts MVP adds between -5 and 20 hp. That's what doesn't make sense. So how much does the ts add and how much does the tst add? My math isnt weird it is adding the marketing claims of the tuners. I am more inclined to say the ts adds roughly 65 hp and the tst adds 120-150 hp to make up a total of 180-200 hp over stock I don't like the s03, mostly because marketing behind it. Also because it has very misleading levels and it also sticks timing at 18.02* at wot and %100 duration. It adds nearly 20* at near idle and %100 duration. It's all datalogged. Udc pro and mm3 are really cool. I have no issue with the tst it's a very good wiretap box. It's smooth and pretty smoke free. If mark laughed about timing boxes that makes me very curious, there are significant gains with timing. I repeatedly data logged nearly 1 second faster 0 to 60 by going from stock timing to maxing out timing. I am not speaking out of my butt it is all datalogging info.

What tires? did you regear? 3.73 is not a stock ratio. 3.54 or 4.10. what rpm are you towing at? I spend a lot of time towing over i70 and other passes like that as well. as long as coolant stablizes at 225* I am not worried personally. coolant does not do near as good of a job of transfering heat compared to Water to the higher water mix does help.

@mistydawn04 HO = High output 245 hp stock SO = Standard Output 235 hp stock. both are vp44 pumps.

that's exactly what I am saying. It is well established that on a stock injector truck a canbus only tuner does about 65 hp over stock. So that 200 hp from the tst /ts stack means that 135 HP of that 200hp is due to the TST comp to hit 200 hp more than stock. 200-65=135hp that's why I say that all wiretap tuners add 120-150 hp over stock and that I don't believe a TST comp will do 180 hp on a stock injector truck with no timing and canbus fueling stacked with it. It just does not make sense that a TST comp adds that much power on a stock injector truck without being stacked with something.

any vp44 from 1998.5-2002 will have a pump that works. Youhave a HO pump, but a SO pump will also work in a snap. The reason why it appears to work after the issue happens is the metal case of the vp44 expands after getting some heat and the timing piston is allowed to move and start working again. if you park it for awhile then it cools off and the case shrinks again and the timing piston gets stuck again. It is the most common failure with the most common symptoms. P0216 + low startup power = bad vp44.

the vp44 pump is a dynamic timing pump, so as conditions change the pump commands different timing to make the truck run efficently. When the timing piston gets stuck the truck is trying to run at nearly 0* before Top dead center, TDC, this means that the fuel is not being injected prior to the right point in the engine stroke and you loose nearly all of your power. Normally our trucks idle at 12* of timing and walk up to 25-30* depending on conditions. your truck is likely stuck at near 0* of timing and never advancing until you get power back. reason for this a galled up timing piston in the injection pump. which sits inside of