Me78569

So there is something up, there are only 43 tuning variables in the v2 tuning. Please delete that tune, load hte default tune, wait 5 minutes, go to the custom tune menu, create new, name it whatever, then export that tune and upload it so I can see what those 2 extra variables are. that's what is causing this hang.

that setup would get you to ~400 hp it would run fine. you will have smoke issues as the xzt cannot control the fueling offidle like the adr box can. You can manage that via using your right foot smartly.

Yep if you are gonna leave it tuner less then RV275s are a good choice for you. Ensure they are genuine bosch

Welcome!

It's muhc better because it shows you what it is doing. I'd say %95 of the time the app connects within 5-10 seconds and starts loading the tune. What you dont see with the old app is hte tune load process. that takes ~45 seconds, which on the old app makes it seem like the app is not connecting.

I must be going crazy, If oyu are on andriod get the beta app out of out downloads section . you will like that a lot better. https://mopar1973man.com/files/category/16-quadzilla-arenaline-iquad-mobile-device-apps/

Dont change power levels for the first 2 minutes after connecting. The tune is applying and it will freeze if you try to change levels while it is happening. The beta version of the app has a tune load progress bar that fixes your issues, but since you are on IOS I have no idea how it works, I have only used the Andriod version of the app.

~65hp over stock before the clutch is at it's limits. Some have better luck, but you are pushing it

Stock clutch while towing is prob good to ~250 whp , 500 wft/lb

you wont spent 1k on a rebuild you will spend ~$100 an a few hours. If you have the exhaust side machined out and replace the turbine well you will be getting close to 1k after the rebuild.

Anyone should be able to do a rebuild, just take your time and pay attention to how it comes apart.

The sledge hammer method to making power on a so vp44 truck starts to tap out at 650-700 hp. Beyond that you are starting to dig for ever HP. to me that means at that hp the VP stops being able to cram fuel in.

Dont get me wrong I am big fan of the CW setup. It's a tough turbo.

Yep, like I said by the time you get it all said and done a modded cw is going to get you most of the way to a new turbo.

The big perk of V2 is with the canbus fueling tuning and timing tuning, not wiretap. Wiretap is largely the same as it has been for 8 years now. A few more tuning variables, but overall the same.

I will never yell about more data. If there is a "considerable" difference in power between stock bar and 350 bar on 7 x .012's then we should see it in logs I will be taking. We might be missing some amount of difference in power by not testing on a street, but from my point of view, if it isn't a big enough difference to see on the street then we dont need to worry.

Fleence unit is terrible for controlling the he351ve. The lilbb.com unit is better, but the he351ve is not for the non DIY type of person. It is a great turbo when tuned right for the truck, however mistuned it is not good. It is up to you to tune it. Something in the 60 mm inducer range, will be good for 400 hp, 62 gets you into the 500. Again I would very much suggest you call DAP and talk to them. They are helpful

there are various places that alter stock turbos. turbolabs, bae etc. Use google to find that. But we are back to square one as soon as you spend money to mod the he351cw you might as well just get a new turbo

the turbine wheel is bigger, you will need to machine out the exhaust housing to fit. Just google " he351cw ve turbine wheel mod

for a fun 400 hp and more than enough power to tow anything the 2nd gen can handle I think a stock he351cw is a good choice. the cw would be fine with stock injectors and tuning the sxe not so much, that really needs more fuel.

I really like the he351cw for what it is, but honestly once you go down this road with getting the cw enlarged etc, you might as well have just bought a new sxe turbo. ve turbine = ~$150 Mill work = $100- $200 by the time you get it all done. turbo = $250-500 rebuild kit for the turbo $60 Intercooler piping to make a 3rd gen turbo work on a 2nd gen $100 Front cover plug for wastegate = $40

you will need a he351ve turbine wheel. Then you will need to have someone machine the cw exhaust side out to fit the bigger wheel.

It's not a compressor mod it's an exhaust side mod to flow more up top. 7 x .010's are good still, if you step up on air down the road you can just use more wiretap up top.

I would call them.

You will have to get a downpipe as well with the 351cw flange if you aren't going to weld one up like in the article.