Me78569

I am sure some of both, mostly calibration differences.

humm. looks like samsung has their own file type to app link, If you do that can you assing json to iquad?

I dont keep mileage logs haha. I will record cruise egt on a stretch of road going to work that is very steady. that should tell us what is going on. lets not start a trend of repopping until we get some good data in. My curiousity should not have an ill effect on others....unless they are bored like me. If you are bored and wanna mess with this like me then feel free. PM DieselAutoPower about it.

maybe while I have the 330 bar out I will ship them back and have them put to 350? and then retest?

Try a different program, do you have a "downloads" program on your phone like I do? You can also try emailing it to yourself and opening hte attachment from Gmail or similar.

I will get various datalogs showing as much data as possible along with videos of each setup. We should be able to compare 0-60 of each setup and see how much difference there is in power. @Carbur8tr @kzimmer Any thoughts on what tests I should do to show pros vs cons of the increased pop?

are you running hte latest version of the app from the play store? It does not need to be connected. What program are you using to open the file location?

Open the iquad app first, Then click the home button, then open the tune file

I dont think it would help honestly. Try this , enable high idle let it idle up, then drop it into gear without using brake or gas, does it stall still?

the load bar is on all profiles of the beta app. the quadzilla only profile has the mpg stuff built in, I hope soon enough Quadzilla will more the app version out of beta because it is way nicer when it comes to showing the tune loading process. I dont think I have touched my screen in ~3 weeks now. Always within ~1 minute it is connected, normally within 5-10 seconds of keying on the tune is applying.

They have about 2k miles on them now from DAP . they are nearly new, I hope they are still popping at 330 bar @jlbayes does DDP use sub stock pop pressures ?

I know that all to well

I am truly sorry your expierence has not been good. I do understand your frustrations.

@dieselautopower The thing I want to test most is a set of matching injectors to what I have now, but stock pop pressure. I want to know what the back to back differences are, if any. As for why my truck does not stall we would have to do a set of smaller, 75-125 injectors at higher pop and see what happens. Is my truck "special" or is it somehow a result of being as big as the 7 x .012's are? I could honestly test injectors until the cows come home.

true, wish I could figure out why I am not having stalling issues, Maybe I am special hahaha.

Exactly I am maxing the fueling duration via canbus commands at peak torque and peak boost ~2000 rpm, but I only using ~400 us of wiretap on my "hot tune" as that is all my turbo can flow. this 400 us helps keep power through 3500 rpm. My tune is NOT maxing and holding fueling at %100 duration across a large area of the pull. Here's my datalogs showing fueling of 7 x .009's and 7 x .012's. Note the difference in how fueling commands are. This is a poor example, but you can see that with t he 7 x .009's ( blue column) peak and hold MUCH sooner, vs's the .012 commands peaking later. The truck makes Keep in mind that I am using %100 of what the injecot can do on canbus tuning. We have to ensure we keep canbus tuning and wiretap tuning seperated in our minds if you were to ask Bosch and Cummins I am using the 7 x .012's to their full potential, if you ask Edge or Quadzilla I am not. Make sense?

@jlbayes another off the wall theory I have been thinking about. We all accept that increasing pop decreases duration. therefore when the ECM reacts to something, stalling, the resulting commands should be "dampened"...Correct? IE if the ecm thinks it needs to spike fueling by %20 to keep the truck alive, the resulting fuel spike might only be %18 if pop is significantly increased. So say I am correct in thinking that the stall issue is actually related to the sharp pull in fuel after the first increase in fueling as a result of being put in gear. ( my above post step 5) The increased pop should actually help keep the motor alive. Now this would only be the case when injectors are big enough to cause that first spike. I can't get past that my truck does not stall when put in gear. I tried to force it to stall this morning when I started. It was less than 20*f when I started this morning. I gave it less than 3 seconds from running to going into R with the tail of the truck uphill. No brake, let it just catch 4.

just tap and install in the other half of the manifold

you still want to match your fuel to your air. As you move right on the graph rpms are climbing Here's what the oem fueling command % looks like at WOT, note how it peaks at 2k ish then starts to fall off note also that it peaks at ~%80 Now here is the Quadzilla tuning, note the canbus curve can be taken down at low rpms ( smoke control) then peak at %100 duration. Also note how wiretap can fill the fueling lul after 2200 rpm. so you want your injectors to be big enough to get the turbo at the top of the map when rpms are at peak torque and throttle is %100, with boost high. clear as mud?

injector size doesn't have anything to do with revving out. the sizing of injectors I think about is trying to get canbus to be %100 at WOT at 2200 rpm. then you can use wiretap above that to hold fueling as revs increase. Canbus fueling is much easier to control than wiretap. Wiretap is very handy once things are moving.

sac or vco , dunno Once @Carbur8tr gets his injectors in I will have a better idea if I like SAC or not

@rogerash0 When you put it into gear do rpms spike for a split second or do rpms drop without any spike at all? even just a split second spike

yep the app uses whatever the tuning variables are currently assigned as.

then I would go with 7 x .012's that will get you to 500 in the meat of your powerband then use wiretap up top to hold power up while it revs out.

Cool, just run it like it is for a while. adjust the level to suit your needs like you would with the edge. Once you find something you want to adjust to fit your driving style we can work through what does what. At this point you should have exactly what you had with the edge.