Me78569

Does psi read good on the quad screen? Ie 0 ish at idle and increase as you drive? It's the app not the quad itself.

What are your issues? 237 code could be just from your installing the quad harness and have key power on.

low psi is typically not noticed noise wise. I would use a stick against your ear to try and pinpoint the source of the noise. What type of noise is always helpful. Is it rythmic? metal on metal? tappy or klunky etc.

ooo that springy dohicky thingy.... use english man

whats ofv?

@xxTJRocksxx Can you post up your before and after tune with the timing changes that allowed you to run more fuel without more smoke? I am working on dialing in my race tune, but timing adjustments don't seem to be changing how much fuel I can throw at it without flooding the turbo. Curious.

Yep, you might have also seen "diagnostics" before you selected your vehicle profile

you don't. It used to because the app didn't see the "diagnostics = 0" I use a bluetooth elm327 device to read codes through the phone. they are $5 on ebay and read codes great

The Quad can't read obd codes through the canbus plug.

try your current tune, only one way to know. I'd just tow without wiretap and egts should stay in check. I am honestly not a tuning guy by any means lol.

depends on the specifics of the issues I suppose

Man you are really overfueling that turbo. you really need to be careful. I would check for boost leaks Then I would check your wastegate, ( I don't even want to guess what your PR is at WOT) Then I would datalog using your edge. What does the data log show when this happens? A datalog is by far the most important tool when troubleshooting an issue like this.

That log looks like lvl1 truthfully. Thats the only way I can explain how you go WOT and canbus fueling doesn't increase at all. Helpful hint for getting your custom tune setup: ( learn this today actually lol) If you stop increasing canbus % when Wiretap comes on, Pump Low Boost Scale PSI:, for a psi before and after then the smoke related to wiretap coming in is greatly reduced. I spent alittle time with my race tune today, starting % of 92, and I have only haze even as wiretap applies. My race tune might actually turn into my dialy tune and my daily tune might actually turn into my emissions tune. IE: Old Race Tune To this tune

Any cheapo multimeter will read resistance

Hard to know what you know by " no power" a stock 2nd gen truck is a real dog. 235 hp trying to pull 7000#. Do you have 150 injectors as well? or where you asking in regards to upgrading? The reason why you feel less reaction time is because the smarty will literally max out fueling by %30 throttle if you have it set aggressively, even sw4 will max out fueling by %50 throttle, again look at the data logs I posted. that does not = more power it means that beyond %30 throttle input you get no increase in power. so you have a stock hy35 turbo? the intake and exhaust mods really don't do much to help the map of the hy35, it is about out of steam by ~30 psi beyond that you are pumping hot air.

Firstly can you fill out your sig so we know what you have on your truck? I can't rememeber are you still running a stock turbo??? ( please tell you aren't) Next you really should unstack the Smarty. The Smarty / Edge is a really really really really terrible stack for controlling fueling. It honestly makes more than %50 of your throttle movement %100 useless. I know you like the "butt dyno" but you are effectively just limiting how much control you have. you wouldn't buy a stereo that the volume only worked from 5-10 would you? The data logs are posted to show you how the smarty fuels... The edge is more than capable of maxing out the canbus fueling without help from the smarty. If you are dead set on running the smarty I would unplug the edge from the canbus plug and use it only for wiretap. However then you are left with a VERY expensive wiretap tuner. However since you have spent a lot of money on the edge setup I would sell the smarty. As for p0602 being related to changing the Edge's power level on the fly, the ecm has no idea the edge is there. The Edge grabs the output from the ECM then alters it and sends it on to the VP44, ECM none the wiser. The p0602 is purely related to the smarty being on the truck. Is the surge still there without the smarty loaded on the ECM? As for p7100 on a 24v and tuners??? You cannot use a tuner on a ppump, it is a mechanical injection pump. So your edge and smarty are paper weights.

could be a weak VP44, or it could be over advanced timing for the amount of fuel. The level 7 stuff is pretty none discriptive when it comes to what the timing adjustment in. Does the surge still happen if you turn "juice timing" off? Does the Edge add more timing on each level you increase or is it the same amount of timing on each level? The lvl 7 stuff didn't appear to have a per level type user adjustment. I'd do some datalogging and see if anything sticks out when this happens, I however don't know how much info is able to be datalogged with the Edge setup. If you can't see timing or canbus output then you are gonna have trouble seeing if the ecm is asking for weird stuff. However P0602 is typical of a Smarty type tuner due to weird fueling tables that don't agree with the eeprom memory tables ( or the other way around) So if you just got a new ECM I would be concerned about the ecm.

I see it in that log, Remember cruise timing is 17* + your setting at 2400 rpm. So .5 = 17.5* timing at 2400 rpm, so at 1700 rpm 15* is pretty much spot on.

Something doesn't make sense in that log. I am seeing you got WOT but canbus fueling is not increasing nor is rpm. Are you hooked up to a heavy load in this log? What level is the Quad on?

you're trucks too nice to qualify. you need to really beat your truck into submission. plus the shield causes a clunk in hte floorboard.

My truck has anti tyler juju shield built in. so you can park on the other side of my truck and all will be well....

Can you attach a data log of this event? We need to see what everything is doing.

DAP does not have a 815 test stand. Point of the whole test stand conversion is just to remember that all VP44 rebuilds come from 1 of ~8 places in the states. What you are getting through Vendor A is VERY likely to be the same exact pump as you get through Vendor B. So when you buy a VP44 get one that is supported by the best vendor possible, with the best warranty possible, at the cheapest cost. Pretty much ALL rebuild vp44's these days have the pump updates that resolve a lot of the p0216 erors and so forth.

150's +- 50 hp lolol However the cost difference between 50's and 150's is pretty small compared to the cost of buying 2 sets of injectors. The HX35 can handle those 7 x .010 if you turn down the fuel. The truck will prob run a bit better than it does now due to not needing Wiretap to max the map of the turbo. Canbus fueling is much easier to control compared to wiretap.

I would suggest you get the 7 x .010's now, pay the core charge and keep your stockers as backup. Then with the Quadzilla just turn down the fueling. You can make the 7 x .010's run fine. Something like my daily tune would prob be fine.