Me78569

I wouldn't I would just the run of the mill VP44 and run it hard for a month. If it doesn't break then you are good to go.

1st question I have is, do you have a true need to pull the head? it is VERY hard to beat the OEM gasket install. If there is nothing wrong currently I would leave the head on and just do studs 1 at a time. I just pulled the rods out from the top of hte head and dropped new ones in. Just make they are seat full, you will feel it.

On emoji anyone ever needs is

Emissions Tune, %100 smoke free even with wiretap on Note the 11 - 13 psi range how I did not increase canbus fueling. This is so that when wiretap starts to apply we have a smooth increase in fueling and no smoke. Once wiretap is started you can then start adding more canbus. Keep in mind that all you need to hit the max fueling of 4095 is about 115% up top. this tune still makes good power, prob north of 350 hp on my truck but is %100 smoke / haze free regardless of what you do with the pedal at ANY point in time. My emissions tests are snap tests at 35 mph 45 mph 55 mph 65 mph I am allowed up to %20 opacity, the smarty set to half power mode did %7 last year. My visible emissions are less this year from what I can see in the tailpipe, but I am required to do testing within the next month I think. Also keep in mind Colorado Springs is at 6500' where I get tested so the %20 is really low for our altitude, last time I checked even Cali was allowing %30....

hahha I did actually find one.... they wanted $2500 for it nope

Plus lvl 1 only allows for 0 -%100 fueling. I am guessing the point is going to be ~125 maybe 135%

H pump or bust....static timing is for the dogs

you don't even need to build your own full tune, just he 0 -5 psi settings and just mat the throttle and let up, see if smoke then repeat. Haze is fine, I am looking to see the point where you start to get full blown smoke due to obvisouly overfueling.

exactly, Like any other reman unit you run the risk of the rebuilder not spotting an issue with the pump, so leave the wiretap undone to keep the warranty on it, then drive the snot out of it to verify that the vp44 can keep up. Keep in mind that %75 of the possible fueling is actually done via canbus within the "65hp limit" Wiretap only adds another %25 on top. Keep in mind that on a stock truck 0-300 hp is canbus fueling and wiretap will add maybe another 100 hp on top (ricer math but te % really don't change much)

Well something to keep in mind with the Quad. The output and the maxes of the system are exactly the same. We are not doing anything that wasn't done before in terms of fueling. Most of the time the V2 stuff is actually less aggressive than the old tune, as there is no need to be fueling aggressive with bigger than stock injectors. The limits of the VP44 system are all the same, the Communication protocol is all the same, its only the calculation going on under the hood that is changed.

I would error on the side of caution. Get a new VP with a warranty and drive it hard for a month without tapping the pump.

Bet money it runs like a top in the morning until it heat soaks

or you have fallen victim to none leaded soldier...

I think that code is a result of the ecm asking for xxx fuel, then not getting a response back from the vp44 saying " I fueled xxx" I would clean your connection to the vp44 and the ecm, use dielectric grease on the plugs. however most importanly don't park next to tyler....ever. and don't EVER connect your truck to his in any way....

Mine too lol. I actually have never seen a 1691 code on any truck since I bought my truck. Thats an intersting one.

h pump??

use the part number lookup tool to get the pn for 2wd u bolts.

Whats the actual cost difference between a new nv5600 and a nv4500 plus the spares needed to get your truck retrofitted? I can't imagine it would be much, especially if you take into consideration the time involved.

Smaller blocks and new u bolts.

Upon thinking through it, I am actually going to leave this the way it is. It would be nice for guys to be able to turn it back to lvl 0 to get high idle regardless like we go with the mopar1973man high idle switch. Prolonged 6 cyl mode is useful. If you leave the tuner on lvl 2+ when you shutdown the high idle will only operate until warmup is reached, but if you turn the truck to lvl 0 it will high idle for you. It is if you enable high idle, Settings > high idle delay in seconds and switch to on. @JDHudsn haha I wouldnt worry about messing it up due to a flash, I bet I have flashed mine nearly 500 times now

@JDHudsn Well the bug finder award goes to you. You actually dug up a bug from about a decade ago. Since the Quad was flash / unplugged from power it reverted back to lvl 0 as the last power level selected. So when warmup disabled the quad stayed in lvl 0. High idle is set to enable so long as lvl == 0. I have no idea why old Quad did this, but effectively if you leave it on lvl 0 it will high idle until the end of time. Not my bug! but i will fix it.

I'll check. Did the power bar change from green to red, but it still high idled?

Alright bug fix tune has been posted. It resolves an issue that comes about if ECT goes above 204*. Dodge was nice enough to wrap the temp around after 204* for some reason. It's in the download section. I would suggest updating when you can.

you forgot "impress the lady" I know chicks dig death wobble. At least I think scream = chicks dig it Another bug, ugh hate my life sometimes. Thankfully dodge decided to just report -40* if coolant goes over 204*f so the quad thinks it is very cold out and turns off fueling..... working on a fix now, otherwise turning lvl to 0 will start fueling again. temp bug fix is posted in the tune section