Me78569

I really need to do this to my truck.

well I snugged up the track bar mount, no go. New set of wheel bearing as the timkens gave up the ghost after ~80,000 I am starting to think that my clunk might be engine mount / trans mount related.

can you give me a brief run down of what happened to start with? I can't remember.

I would agree

You are welcome....Gonna blow that 27 out of the water during the summer..... Seriously impressed

Hahah

What bolts are looking new? Tappet bolts or head bolts?

If I try the truck just turns off. Beyond 3500 if canbus isn't 0 then it just shuts off. Wiretap will hold fueling tell ~3700, but power will fall off after 3500.

I'd go with a 4" personally.

I am fur brained. maybe you did send it to me.

Thanks for the insight. The edge will only use 10 psi as the setting if it doesn't see boost, so if the edge is seeing it right then the isuse with the CEL needs to be between the edge and ECM. known what the CEL is will help troubleshoot that. So your shudder feels like a fuel shudder then, not a mechanical trans shudder? It very well could be a timing issue causing it. who knows what the Edge is asking for they wont tell me haha. I would assume your hard start issue is a grid heater issue as it starts good when plugged in. I would expect the same issues if the issue was elsewhere, but maybe not. Check the grids and verify you are getting heat.

@OverToyed I did your sig for you, you can adjust it if you like. I would agree I would verify both grids are working, you should be able to feel heat on the intake horn. You could also have bad / worn injectors. but my first guess would be grids. Does your Wait to Start light stay on for the right period of time? 2. have you asked Suncoast about your TC issues? As always check for AC noise

Are you the one Spencer sent over that is in Denver? Please give us a list of mods. I think he said DDP 120's for fuel? And 3000 / 5000 compounds? Without mods we can talk about your smoke issue. Whats the code you have now? Use the wiring diagram to check for breaks in the map wiring to the ecm. I am going to guess that the sense wire to the ecm has damage. pin c of the map if you have an 01. However being that you live in Denver you are going to have to deal with smoke unless you jump ship to the Quadzilla. Larger than stock injectors means that you are going to be overfueled down low unless you can pull fueling. Unplugging the edge from the sensor just makes the Edge use 10 psi as it's setting.

@CSM Did you ever get around to figuring out what Revo settings you are running? Your truck was not a coal train until beyond ~%60 at low speeds. I would be curious to look at the revo stuff and see what settings did that. Since you have 7 x.0095's it is useful to know.

The data logs I pulled from the smarty on mpg mode showed that canbus fueling was nearly %100 based on throttle input. Ie it would make the truck go to max fueling offidle, which in my mind is nutso. Timing was also stupid aggressive, i would have to look at the log but timing was never below 16-17* which is awful high for sub 1500 driving. There's a reason why they say no towing on lvl 1. Based on the smoke output, when I ran a smarty, and the data logs from other levels the s03 default tuning seems to be geared towards butt dyno feel, vastly overfueling down low. It may feel good but from what I have seen it is not a great way to do things. Stock injectors hide this some but by 7 x .009s really made a mess of things on low levels of the smarty. Now the Revo settings I am not sure on, I can't have Tyler data logging 24 /7 as we have better things to do. Another thing I don't like is the way Mads marketed the S03 back when. Lots of talk about not changing timing a ton etc, when this is clearly untrue. Consider that OEM timing likes to sit near 11* under load and you can see the smarty really does add a ton of timing.

all we need is time..time...time

Different strokes, which is fine. I wish I could lend you a Quad to data log what your current settings are actually doing in terms of fueling and timing. The data logs I have seen we interesting. Not something I would want, but again different strokes. @CSM has some good tuning done on his smarty also, I might have to throw my Quad on his truck and see whats going on.

That's the one for a 01. We have an entire thread for various tunes so don't feel overwhelmed. I coded it in a manner to make sure that most anyone could dial in their truck without being a rocket scientist in tuning.

Another good cover.

I updated the base flashes to set a min coolant temp of 120*f before Timing is adjusted. Tyler pointed out an issue if you use lvl1 as anti theft . If you jump off of level 1 then you are stuck with a cold engine and timing that is less than stellar until temps come up. I also changed cruise timing so if you set it to 0* it will never go into cruise state timing. Figured it was a good idea to ensure that if you needed a stictly tow tune you could disable the cruise timing. Note even setting cruise timing to .1* will renable it.

The smarty is much more friendly to stock injectors. The data logging I have seen from the smarty tunes have been less than impressive, there's a reason why the butt dyno likes them. Some folks like that, others don't......that's fine. Also should be noted that if you mess with the revo settings things get better, but the default levels are pretty smokey.

Not all late trucks report it. Depends on if they got switched out for the dummy gauge wiring.

Do you have a live data tool to check sensor values while driving?

It's not your fault it is a very hard thing to explain haha. I need to do a graph for it or something. I dunno.

One note @Mopar1973Man fuel load timing actually works opposite to your thinking. Think of fuel load timing as a buffer or a weight to your rpm timing tuning. You will never get more than your rpm setting, but your fuel load timing dedicates how much of your rpm timing is related to load. If load is at 100% you get the full timing value.