Me78569

Yea I am going to take the front shaft and back shaft to a place locally and get them done. Or I could just buy new ones haha http://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/dodge,2000,ram+2500+pickup,5.9l+l6+diesel+turbocharged,1361999,drivetrain,drive+shaft,2308

Well it's not the front drive shaft. Pretty sure it is the carrier bearing....Mike was right I guess, the wrong way to install a carrier bearing is with a hammer hahah

I should know what tipm but I can't think of it

I can't wait to take a spin in that bad boy

I think you are on the right track by cleaning up the contacts. our trucks do funny things when they are not happy with the power.

He's not limping though....

could be a break anywhere between that and hte plugs at the end. If it looks good there then there must be a break in the wires on the back of the switch

How does the truck drive? Is it smokey offidle more so than normal? I would also pull the edge out and see if the code goes away or not. At least put the map wiring back to stock.

It is typically frayed.

The issue is likely in your harness itselt so splicing into the molex wouldn't work. Check the bare wire near the IAT plug, I think thats where Ed ran the bare wire.

Carrier is brand new, I need to double check but I can't think it is already trashed. u joint in the front shaft is loose. I went outside and I have one, I am going to pull the front shaft and see if the issue goes away. Edit: FML, since my truck has a 1994 dana 60 up front I have to put on my sherlock holmes hat and figure out what parts I need.

kick me please, but I don't have one of those that I know of......do i?

My cad is locked, I did throw it in 4wd and it is no worse or better. u joints up front are also on my list. Whats the "centering ball"?

I got under it this morning to check out the shaft. It seemed good, but I don't trust that.

No pulling when I brake and the calipers are both new within the last 2 years....not saying much but ya. Parking brake doesn't work haha. Noted both of those things to check though. Tonight the truck is going on jack stands and I am going to start tearing into my ball joints, who knows if they are bad, and also do a good shake down. Seems that if I don't do that every ~6 months my truck tries to kill me.

A new issue has come up. I have a very noticeable shake between 25 and 35 mph. it is VERY similar to a tire being out of balance, but I have never had a tire do that at such low speeds. Doesn't matter if you are increasing or decreasing speed, doesn't matter if you are on the brakes or on the throttle moderately. WOT you don't feel it but that might be because the truck is rough anyways. Does matter what gear or rev, just that mph is between 25 and 35 mph, it clears up pretty much as soon as you hit 36 mph. Tires?

@Mopar1973Man Remember that only cruise timing is taking effect when you are at cruise. The 6* timing for the base map is turned into 0* when the truck senses you are at cruise. Also there is a new flash in the thread I pinned at the top of the section. It might actually help bump city / slow speed mileage some. It is the V2.1 flash. If you get bored you can run it, but the base timing works a little differently so we might have to chat about it.

55 mph = 25+ mpg 60 mph = 23 mpg 65 mph = 21 mpg 70 mph = 20 mpg Fuel stretch is set to 1750 on my DD tune, but wiretap start is at 8 psi so I am rarely using wiretap when at cruise or putting around town.

"yadda yadda yadda that's cheating yadda yadda yadda" Man that would be nice congrads

Interesting. They went through all the trouble to design the PITA CCD network to make all modules talk but didn't allow the pcm to see the WTS hahahaha. Thanks dodge. @Mopar1973Man thanks for clearing that up

That reminds me of "there an app for that" but rather "theres a code for that" Why does it not come on when the cluster test is run then? genuinely curious

WTS light doesn't come on when he does a cluster test, I would guess the bulb is burnt out.,...Odd for an LED, but not impossible.

23 mpg at 70 mph.....haha no amount of code is going to make it get better than that hahaha.

They are 15% off until Dec 1st use the coupon code HighIdle

As much as we would like to sell you a high idle switch it wont help your issue. 1st check for boost leaks However looking at your lift and tires I am not suprised by those EGTS when at cruise. To much wind resistance and too much rotational mass to be efficent. I am also assuming you have 3.55 axles? The tires plus the rear end give you an effective rear end gear of ~3.05 which does not really work on a truck. Play with that to see the issue. If you want to keep your tires and lift I would suggest regearing to bring your efficetive ratio back to something that works well.