Me78569

@Carbur8tr @tfaoro @dieselfuture @mopar1973man @xxtjrocksxx How big of an issue is the off idle lul that happens? Do I need to create an "anti stall" function or do you just get used to driving with more throttle and not think about it anymore? I am REALLY struggling to come up with a good solution for an anti stall.

Unless you want the new fixes I wouldn't worry about it. I doubt the public will see the really neat nerdy stuff, those are more of proof of concept, maybe v3 tuning down the road who knows.

yes

There are 2 elements in the grid heater system, so you might have 1 bad relay, one bad trigger wire or one busted element in the housing. I would just do a quick check of the wiring to the relay, there should be 2 trigger wires going ot the housing. Test both of them wiht a multimeter and see if they are both getting ~12v whent he WTS light is on.

Yes I would guess you either have no grids or one grid. I am leaning towards 1 as your truck starts similar to how mine does when temps get down to -30

20 seconds is about right, I am going to vote no / one grids also. that's about how mine starts at ~ - 30*f

Best gift ever!!!!

Woke up to rain this morning....I hate to say it but this state is broken. We decided to try out a new gift giving idea. We went out and got 100$ worth of scratch tickets. Then the family sits down and plays cards. If you win a hand you get to pick a couple tickets. So far we are about $10 from breaking even...shocking.

I might also have an anti stall function ready to test

I don't see any apples must be his nose.

in theory the ecm only fuels enough to keep revs at 800, so limiting fueling at idle would do nothing to help guys with firehose injectors. really just an excuse for me to whip out some code. Thanks to Tyler I also have some pretty cool new code Just another step towards more timing control.... ALOT more.

The real question is if the overhead isn't there does the PCM have the flash needed?

Spent some time tonight messing with idle state fueling only to find that if you remove fuel at idle the ecm just adds it back to keep revs. As soon as you say "screw you ecm" and just set an idle fueling message the vp airlocks when you let off the throttle coming to a stop....stupid truck.

Bugs are fixed and tested. I posted them https://mopar1973man.com/topic/12025-how-do-i-manually-install-the-quadzilla-driver-load-the-quadzilla-v2-tune-on-windows-10-8-7/ If you leave the Quad on lvl1 warmup mode is disabled, if you have a fueling start point below %100 then that is used until warmup is reached.

Well, I work up at 3 am with an idea on how to solve a couple of different low level bugs. I think I have a fix for mikes issue, of warmup mode canceling lvl 1 when set to anti theft, and I think I have a fix for warmup mode if your starting point is under 100%. If you leave the tuner on lvl1 warmup mode will not engage the next time you start the truck, since lvl 1 can only be subfueling there should be no issue, 2nd bug was a bit harder to solve, but if warmup mode is enabled > enable quad's output canbus message + use only boost lvl 0 setting until warmup is disabled, I might need to add a few lines to this to allow for 0 - 5psi settings to be used, I don't know if 0 psi setting is enough power to be safe. Regardless I am excited to have those fixed...the latter has been bugging me for awhile now.

It takes me a good 30 seconds of cranking to bleed mine fully.

how long are you cranking for? How much fuel are you getting out of 3 and 4?

I guess since yours does it in 4wd I would do the reverse and see if maybe the collar is not strong enough to hold 4wd. Go from 4wd to 2wd and see if it goes away. I also noticed that if the tailhousing shaft bearing is loose the entire shaft can move back and cause the synro to grind in the transfer case.

@Quadzilla Power I really have to comment on the "hoth" statement....Good work

I had a similar issue with mine, it was the actuator failing to hold the collar back fully. It would then grind on the outer shaft. Easy way to test is pull it into 4wd when it happens. Does the noise go away?

I honestly don't know if the timing even matters when it is that cold. I doubt damage will happen. Knowing how the old tunes worked I don't think the v2 will hurt even when it is way cold. The ecm is asking for %85 of the timing.

Use the wiring maps + the FSM i the downloads section to trace wires related to the the headlights https://mopar1973man.com/cummins/articles.html/24-valve-2nd-generation_50/51_engine/electrical/

Please give us some cutloff shots to show us that they aren't all over the place.

I am a ok here. Finally winter has come. Glad to see you back

Check Vulcan? I like hose clamps they make me feel good. Sub 50 I very much doubt they are needed, heck even 100 psi.