Me78569

Diesel is up on jack stands. Fired up ther german v12 after not driving it for a few months, it just purrs like a kitten.

not really, I try to avoid it whenever I can, but it really puts a damper on the situation, when you need to use it but cant......

it was straight down then my pcv broke, so I rednecked it together over the top with some hose leading down to behind the axle.

Yea, I am hoping there is no carnage in the Transfer case, but I am really not going to be surprised if there is some pretty bad damage.

All there is to see is oil leaks.

that'll teach you.

interesting. That explains why I don't have DP issues with my setup and guys running cw's do.

Well the time has come to tear into my NP241DHD, I just bought an overhaul kit, ( seals and bearings only). I will be dropping the transfer case at some point next week / weekend. Issues are I have a random grinding when I hit bumps, either in the CAD system or in the transfer case. Pulling the stick back to 4x4 makes the noise go away, but I not longer have a working vacuum actuator either so I don't know if it CAD is to blame as I really doubt it is able to move the collar. I also have no ability to go into N or 4l in the transfer case. It literally hits a wall trying to push from 2wd into N, so I am GUESSING that the shifter collar inside is FUBAR, but I won't know until I tear it apart. I am gonna go to the junkyard on friday and get a replacement CAD actuator and new vacuum lines as I can't even look at them without them busting / cracking. Gonna take a bunch of pictures as I go. Also as a side note, I finally decided to figure out exactly what axle is under my truck. It is a 610428-4 so a 3500 1994 front axle. nice to know rather than guessing.

Mine under the truck looks like this.

I didn't know the ve turbine was different. good to know.

In the engine section, but not in a subsection.

I would see what cowboy says, but I think you might be able to bolt on the 351cw compressor side to your turbo. that will net you some more flow.

I got none. I will take some later, I was more worried about getting the old canvas down before dark.

Well the Wife and I, most wife with my encouragement, have decided to replace the canvas. Figured it held up good for almost 30 years, we might as well give it a fresh start. Taking the canvas off showed a couple issues that I need to take care of. About $20 worth of wood needed and some time spent. I am going to spend some time resealing the roof corners and the corners of the bottom ledge of the canvas. Things actually look a little better than I was expecting.

You can buy replacement pads on ebay for nothin. Might be aftermarket non-oem but they still work.

How are you scanning for codes?

Yea I had maf issues in a old Bmw due to k&n since then nothing but paper for me.

Leave it untapped for a month at least. Drive it hard for the first pump. If any rebuild related issues are going to happen I would expect to see them within that time. Then after that point I tapped my pump.

stock is fine.

DAP will void for stealth cover, well their rebuilder will void the warranty so DAP can't warranty the pump. The pin prick on the board is traceable now and most every rebuilder looks for it.

That's what I do. Works fine and prevents rust on my oil pan. just make sure your setup holds the PVC away from the fan.

that's what I used for mine, worked fine.

Not worth the argument, Somethings are better let be.

Looks like there is a heated seat module, I would verify you have a flashing switch then look at the module if that is the case. A flashing is clearly a signal from a computer telling you there is an issue. Download the FSM and start chasing wires.

haha My coworker is one of those old guys that "swear by K&N" doesn't matter what you say, answer is always " must of oiled it wrong"