Me78569

put it in a post. and tell us what lines are what situtations.

I wont say anything until I see datalogs. Without those it is a complete shot in the dark.

Timing reduct only comes into play at high throttle low boost, that's meant to retard timing at a rapid rate if you put your foot down. Max Load Timing Offset is what defines how much below the timing curve to go. As load increases to %100 max load decreases to 0* to match your curve defined timing. A little bit of knock isn't bad. However you want to see timing drop to 14-16* of timing when you try to pass someone without too much throttle at 65 mph then if you mat it you should see timing drop even more if boost is low. I would datalog a light throttle situtation at 65, then an easy passing situtation, then a matted situtation. You will be able to see where timing drops to and adjust your setting better from there.

you can do it cheaper, but most builders use morimoto stuff because it generally does well. D2s setup is ~$300 and some $100 housings. Gotta make sure you compare apples to apples

If you are buy some prebuilt you will pay $700 or more. It takes a TON of labor to build them. ~$400 in parts and 4 hours or so

Download the app and try it yourself. The functions all work, the tune on the pod is the base tune, the custom tuning on the iquad allows you to change ~46 of the tuning variables within the base tune. The base tune is "replaced" when you use custom tuning on the iquad. If you want to know more look up the tuning guide artles. It covers what each tuning variable is.

Mine blade fuse tap or extender should get you there.

input torque requirements increase as gear # increases.

lol I used to get 38-40 mpg on the overhead when I was running 7 x .012's really the overhead is about as simple as "x" tps% at 55 mph = 'X" mpg

I am guessing you will have to adjust your timing some, guessing it is too timing aggressive when lockup happens and your big turbo isn't lit.

data log the issue please

iOS doesn't do well with allowing output. You will have to add rows at the top to make things line up.

Dap for the vendor and get a run of the mill sovp

wrong pump is bs. sounds like boost leaks

depends on the tune guys are running. most people max their fueling by 20 psi at WOT.

if you are at 50 psi then you are likely at WOT and hte maps are all maxed anyways.

My truck wanted high timing at 70 and 75 mph. If I dropped timing my mpg also fell. dunno if it was injector size or what, but point is try both ways and see how the truck responds. If I stuck timing at or around 20* at 70-75 the truck would do right at 20 mpg

open office or libre office read csv files without issues. You can watch the screen when you drive though and see what load % is and rpm you are at. You can't set your timing curve for cruise state vs accel without knowing where to flip the timing curve, which is this setting If you are cruising above that load % then you are never getting higher timing to promote good mpg, if you never go above that % while trying to climb a hill then you will note lower power.

We are gonna need to know what load you are cruising at and at what rpm. honestly 650 egt at 70 with 305 tires is pretty good.

I would guess that is true. a short in that line would cause all sorts of issues. Given that hte tap was between the prongs in the mini blade fuse then the ground from either end of any of the wires in that curcuit would cause this issue.

everything works fine until something happens to challenge the system which results in issues. My guess, kinda out of left field, knowing what you had setup is that the fuse tap came loose somehow and shorted to the metal in the subdash that surrounds the fuse panel resulting in the issues.

you should reinstall your injectors, if it doesn't start without ether then you have issues with your fuel lines at some place. Could be the return, it could be the cross overs, or connections to the cross over.

yes, it is the same thing electrically speaking but just a better design. however I am worried that something got cooked by putting the fuse tap between the blades of hte fuse. This would remove the fused link and could cause issues if there was a short or an overcharge situtation.

what speed are you driving on the highway?