flman

You can get all kinds of fittings and hose here, http://www.vulcanperformance.com/category-s/181.htm the tappings on the OE filter housing are 12MM. I put a pre-filter on my truck with a compound gauge to check for restriction. Has a 20 micron water seperator filter.

It is all in the physics, longer connecting rods, longer throw on the crank. Like I said in a previous post, turn a crank with a short arm, versus a long arm. Which crank is going to turn the load easiest? And that longer stroke is why the I6 runs at lower RPMs then the V8.

Maybe trim it out with some diamond plate?

I just changed mine, it calls for Dextrom II or III, I filled it up with Amsoil ATF

Well, got it done, 2 1/4" steel brake lines for each rear caliper. Topped off the oil, adjusted the clutch free play. Then the steering box lash was a pita, the adjustment screw and lock nut is accessed through a hole in the frame. of course the nut was frozen pretty good, which cause me all kinds of problems, including grinding a wrench to a thinner size. Took me 3 hours to do that, I ended up backing the lock nut all the way off, then I applied never seize, and the problem was solved. Here is a pic of the steering box and reservoir.The other 4 pics are Fass Pump thanks to M73M and all the other members who helped meView left side of engine compartmentView right side of engine compartmentMy Vulcan 200 Micron pre-filter with a compound gauge to check for blockage, so far it has stayed at zero.

It usually happens right at one of the hangers, and from what I see, that is where it happened. I am up early gonna tackle it soon.

I would just plug it in and try it, more power and torque is a good thing.

I was not liking the way big blue was handling lately, so I checked out the steering system, and found the lash is getting pretty sloppy in the steering box. This steering box had a plug on it, so I drained the fluid being it was due. Put in fresh ATF, prime it, pump the brakes and turn the wheel back and fourth to get things circulating. Notice the pedal went to the floor pretty easy, and even felt a pull while braking today? Well, I guess it was ready to go, and pumping on the pedal did it in, oh well at least it happened in the drive way. So I guess I have a job to do tomorrow. Brake lines, and steering lash.

Well hopefully you can sell them, how much are those cans compared to a 30# cylinder?

You bought 9 30 pound cylinders? Or 9 little cans?

With a medium truck rated engine in mine, I get 23 to 24 PSI at idle, and 13 to 14 PSI pulling a hill, pedal to the metal. I know it seems like a big drop, but you have to consider my MPG runs between 10 and 12 MPG.

With our first normal hot summer in 2 years, I am in a good situation for the time being, people are actually buying and servicing AC systems again

I live in a wooded area, not wilderness, but a nice place for bear, deer, coyotes, fox, and other animals. The me generation has been stripping it away, long driveways, deep into the woods to build there homes. Less and less room for the animals. The only thing helping them now is the recession.

Thanks for the words of wisdom, actually I do get some hiking in every once in a while. Even on the longest hike, I cover such a minuscule part of the great earth, could not comprehend how much life is in that soil? Nice to hear from you Moparmom:)

Glad to see you moving on to other things, I hope one of these parts turns out to be the culprit for you. Do you have a 5 speed in you truck? Not sure you can use that ECM for an Auto.

Hate to tell you this, but I was kind of doubting your 100th VP was going to be the lucky pump. I think you definitely have a problem elsewhere, that is beyond an internet solution. I would get that truck over to a Cummins repair center for at least an analysis?

I go to the refrigeration supply house, but they are pretty strict about selling to out siders of the trade. Look on line for a quality set like, Imperial Eastman, Robinar, Yellow Jacket, JB. Bet you can find a nice set on Ebay.

Randy, glad it all worked out for you, too much freon and oil is a bad thing, sounds like you got it right this time. :cool:BTW, what is with the cup cake near my screen name? Mike is getting busy again?

Actually, mine goes up to 145 PSI, and it is accurate. I tested pressure with a mechanical gauge and they matched. http://www.glowshiftdirect.com/blue-digital-fuel-pressure-gauge.aspx BTW, if you buy from them, buy the wiring extension, the wire is kind of short

Mine has a standard pyro probe, it just gets converted at the digital gauge. All they are is basically an electric power pile, same thing a gas millivolt circuit would use. So I would say electric to a digital gauge should be right on. I have the Glow Shift gauges, so far so good, but if the fail, I am going all mechanical.

My LED gauges update instantly, as fast as the sender tells them too? My boost pyro seems to update fast, and fuel pressure moves just as fast as the mechanical gauge. No delay on the GS gauges.

They gauge is all solid state electronics, there is no movement, I doubt it would break. If they lowered the pressure down for fuel pressure it would be nice, 150 psi is way out of range, unless you want to use it for oil pressure?

Mine turned all red, make me fill like a bad boy :moon:I just might be retired before I fill in the top bar

What is with the bars below our name when we make a post? What doe each one indicate?

It is all yours Mike, Enjoy