AH64ID

I have used it when backing down some steep hills, 4 Lo, Reverse, EB... never touch the brake!I will also use mine to warm the motor up, but I like to wait until my coolant is about 60° so that the rings have time to get warmed up before the soot party begins. I use either 1,000 or 1,100 rpms to get to 60° and it never seems to take too long, then the EB and it's hot quick!I don't like to idle it longer than 2-3 minutes thou, but there are certain activities where it's needed.. But for those extended events I add a little Cetane boost to improve the low load combustion.

Did you not have a f/w sep on it at all? Yeah a pump would not like sucking thru a fine media (not sure Wix makes a true "2um") filter with cold fuel!I know you work for NAPA and thus like Wix filters.. but their published data is never quite as good, nor is it really accurate reporting. Nominal doesn't mean anything and that filter is 14um nominal.. which could be anything less than 98.7%, usually around 50%.

I have used mine in reverse!

Looks like it worked for 98whitelightnin, but no workey for me

Looks like the site doesn't allow BB code and images in sigs.

You need to copy the link with the on either end of it. --- Update to the previous post... Gotcha, fuelly certainly won't work with that many partial fills. I try to avoid partial fills.

I use it in 6th all the time!As for the noise, could it be the vacuum pump under load?

The 2" is the old version. As long as no cylinders have both valves open the pressure should hold for a while. You will get some leakage thru the rings on a cold motor. [ATTACH]3259[/ATTACH] DieselAirFilterFlyerSept2009.pdf

It's the stock filter!I would put it at 10 psi and see if it holds, it should. Are you replacing all the boots or just the one?

Michael, I use both Excell and Fuelly. Fuelly is more for fun and letting people see real-world mileage logs.. not inflated stories at the pump. Copy the banner link from the fuelly site and put it in your sig line.. That is if the site allows it.

That's a new one!

From a power standpoint you are 100% correct, the colder the air the more o2 per cubic foot of air, thus more power potential. From an economy stand point the engine has an efficiency range, and with ECM's adjusting timing/fueling the economy can increase, but your total power may be hindered... if that makes any sense.

I am currently at the GE Line Maintenance Course for the T700-GE-701D Engine (found in the Apache and Blackhawk). Today we were talking about airflow. The motor has a final PR of around 17:1, and moves at least 600lb/min! It moves more air in 10 seconds than my turbo does in a minute! This is only a "small" 1800 SHP turbine, not even the big dog's on the jet liners.Imagine how cool we would run at 600 lb/min! (thou the compressor takes more than 4,000 hp to operate).

They kinda did in 08 when the shrank the intercooler. It had 2 effects, warmer air for mileage and warmer EGT's for fewer regen's (main reason I beleive). And because everybody thinks colder is better.. which is true in terms of power, just not so much in terms of fuel efficiency..

Smoke is not good, in fact your leak must not be huge or it would be smoking. The AD will supply the CP3 with all the fuel it needs, but the ECM still controls the fueling, so the AD wont effect power unless you had a restriction from the old pump, or were tuned higher than the stock LP could handle. As for the AD make sure you only run a Baldwin BF1275 and Donaldson P551315 on it.

If you have something like a Parker Hydraulics they keep boots in stock, and lots of places to order them online. Personally I would not be driving, especially towing, with a boost leak an no EGT gauge. When my IC was leaking the ECM was still fully fueling and the only way I knew something was wrong was a huge spike in EGT's and a 3-4 psi boost drop. The difference here is that it wouldn't leak until I hit full boost, full fuel, and then bleed off. With your setup leaking from the get-go you probably aren't ever achieving full fueling, but your also not getting all the air you need for the fuel you are getting.

Do you really think its that rpms, not the associated speed, that effects your mileage? Wind resistance is the #1 factor in fuel economy, which is directly related to speed.

Show her this and you will be off the hook for life!!! (ain't that's only one part of it)

Is your OEM hose ripped or was it loose?If you want more power you could keep an eye out for a Smarty Jr, load it on SW1 and your motor is now a HO with better timing, not any more fuel than a 305 HO pushed with the same turbo you have. But I bet if you fix that leak (sounds like you may still have it) and you will get some more power.

Welcome to the site!Yes, a boost leak of that magnitude will effect fueling. I would install boost/EGT gauges to ensure you are now boosting/fueling as you should be. Since you just bought the truck have you done thorough maintenance on it? Filters, fluids, etc. What kind of truck are you coming from, and did you tow the same load with it?Look on your valve cover for your HP rating, 235 or 250?

For my 05 65-70 is in the 17-18 range, and 75-80 is in the 15-16 range... that was pre-turbo, I have seen 19 at ~70 with the latest setup.

You would probably be shocked at all the data I collect/calculate per fill-up. Fuelly has a link to copy and paste for the banner.

Anyone else use it?

Speed makes a far bigger difference than rpm's do. Run at 60ish for the best economy.