AH64ID

A1 is who I couldn't remember.. Well was thinking A11. They are supposed to be as strong as the 625's but cheaper. I don't need that strong and the 2000's were cheaper still. I think that's a generic statement and doesn't apply to the ISB. --- Update to the previous post... One other thing, use PLENTY of the ARB lube. I have a spare packet if you want it PM me your addy.

There is one other company people use, but the name eludes me. The valve cover clearance is with the taller nut and wasn't hard to clearance for.. just be sure to clean all the metal shavings off before putting it back on the motor.

I originally had a push-pull (or 2), but they rattle.. ALL of them from what I can find. My truck is SO quiet now that I have a rocker. With the ECM being designed to control an EB I wouldn't do it any other way. http://www.dieselperformance.com/index.php/product/index/46P --- Update to the previous post...

I put the ARP 2000's (425's) in my 05. The head has the same bolt pattern, and the stud kit is the same. I did the one at a time method and didn't bottom tap the holes. The studs do go deeper than the OEM bolts, but all of mine are in the same depth and I would have only gone another turn on them anyhow and didn't think it was necessary. There are holes in the cowl so there is plenty of room. If my head had been off I probably would have bottom tapped, but don't regret not doing it.

Yeah I originally looked up a 3500 SRW by default. My curb is 7259, where yours is only 7050.. I have quite a bit of extra weight in tools, filters, chains, spare filters, receivers, etc...

If you wait until a symptom to arise then no a can, bottle, etc won't cure it.. at least not in one tank. When I got my truck it had a rough idle every now and then, usually after a long run the previous time the engine was running. Dealership duplicated it once, but never diagnosed it. I added "2um" filtration, and continued on my normal Amsoil Diesel Concentrate regime and haven't had the issue in 40K miles, but it took 20K miles for it to go completely away. So I think a regular injector cleaner will help keep it clean and reduce any deposits that may form, but it wont chip off a piece of nastiness overnight.

How is your 05 so light? Or is that completely empty? 2wd?There are guys that diet their QCSB's and are happy with a 7200 lb race weight.

NO.. it has alcohol which will emulsify water to the point of not being able to be filtered out and do damage. It works great on gassers, but no-no on diesel.

I cannot find a part number for it, but if it's made it is possibly for a different ISB, maybe even a natural gas version and a special application. It is not intended for any pickup motor.

I doubt it! Even in hot hot days I haven't ever seen more than 10° above full open on my thermostat. So even if we assume it got 20° above full open on a 130° stat your barely to min operating temp and that's only going to be on long hills. The hardest the cooling system gets worked is in 6th gear, rpms are low, EGT's are high, airflow is down, oil is hot, and torque is high. As you gear down you reduce the strain on the cooling system, and at 24K+ gross hill are probably pulled in 4th gear, maybe 5th on small hills and you just don't have the strain you would at 18K GCW in 6th. I can't think of a single good reason to run a 130° stat!

The 02 service manual still calls the 5.9 a Throttle Body motor, but I missed the 8 injectors vs 2 on a TBI engine.

Same on the 3rd gen up thru 05, no bulb check on 06+ if the grids don't fire. Depending on the year the volt meter may or may not bouce with the grids. My 05 it stays low thru the entire cycle, but I can watch the volts change on my SG and in the headlights. My dad's 06 bounces with the voltage. BTS plays no role in grid heater operation on a 3rd gen, it's only uses for charge rates. --- Update to the previous post... This is out of the 01 FSM. The BTS is used to determine the battery temperature and control battery charging rate. This temperature data, along with data from monitored line voltage, is used by the PCM to vary the battery charging rate. System voltage will be higher at colder temperatures and is gradually reduced at warmer temperatures

I don't, this is all I have seen on it. http://dodgeram.org/tech/specs/axle/rear_axle.html

My truck is 5,200# FAWR 6,200# RAWR 9,900# GVWR 21,000# GCWR Street tires 48#, street rims 23# Winter tires 54#, winter rims 23# I really don't pay attention to the published GVWR, I use 12,200# GVWR (DRW limit for same frame), FAWR, and rear tires (axle is rated at 9350 on a DRW and 10,900# by AAM).

I don't recall the temp on 2nd gen's, (66°F for 3rd gens), but if the IAT is above that the WTS doesn't illum but if the ambient temp is low the grids will cycle after engine start. If the IAT is below the threshold the WTS will illum (time is based on temp), and the grids will cycle after the engine starts. In either case they will operate for up to 2 minutes or until you hit ~18 mph. I have no clue what the cutoff is for coolant temp (if there even is one on 3rd gens) as I have never seen it not operate from a hot truck.. just that 66° IAT number.

The 03 didn't ever have a real gauge, just a moving idiot light.

What is your FAWR on a 2nd gen?

Those look about right and lower than your first post, depending on where the OEM sender is the psi will vary. I can idle at 40+ until the oil warms up, which is after the coolant gets warm.

That oil pressure seems VERY high!I sit at 20-22 warm idle, 58-62 normal cruise, rarely break 80 even with cold oil. The stock oil pressure relief valve opens at 70 ± 5 psi.

Without me in it, full fuel, and normal tool box goodies she is 8,000 (4800/3200). We went for a drive in the mountains this weekend, and in addition to my normal stuff had the winch installed, little bit of fire wood, some camp chairs, cooler and the whole fam (me, wife, 3 kids 430 lbs) we were 9,040 (5240/3800) leaving town with a full tank. It amazes me how easy the front axle is to go over GAWR (5200 lbs) on without a trailer or big load in the bed. Light loading the truck makes the front axle very heavy!

Wow, if that's true then I don't know what to say! That's 30° below min operating temp!

I would guess there was something wrong with it. Regardless of the thermostat installed Cummins lists 160° as the min operating temp. AFIK there are 180, 190, and 200° OEM stats available (Assuming that 98-12 thermostats are interchangeable). Remember those are cracking temps, full open temps are 15-20° higher and steady non-towing temps are 3-5° higher once fully warmed up.

That new filter is rated for about 50% more CFM too!

Really all I did was make the pedal less sensitive, if I get on it with more pedal I have just about all the power as before.. and still more than stock!

Of course!