AH64ID

Yes and no. If your not meeting demand pressure for the most part you will get a code. Sometimes that doesn't happen when heavily modified, but under 500ish rwhp and stock RP there really isn't a need for one. Yes it's nice to have, but not crucial like VP LP pressure.

What does SD have to do with fuel pressure?

Very true. I would have never known my IC had a leak without a boost gauge. And without a pyro I would have melted something, even in stock trim.

It's not that isn't important, just not deadly like on a VP44... Never hurts to know the condition of your fuel filter and if your mods (if any) are too much for your LP.

Did the APPS adjustment continue to work?Dual battery setups need to be replaced in pairs, even 6 months with one new and one old battery can kill the new one.

Pretty funny... That bug is my fav as well.

Have a great trip!

Are the OEM replacements, longer, shorter, etc?I am not sure I have ever contacted my rear stops, and only touched the fronts when I hit pot holes with too much speed.

If both the heater core hoses are hot that tells me that its getting plenty of flow.

I liked the 12V article. As for the 7.3, unless he has a heavy foot his mileage is a little low. I have 2 buddies with late 7.3's, they can both pull mid teens pretty easily, and one is on 35's.

You have to pull the rockers, but really it only takes about 30 minutes to pull the valve cover, rockers, re-torque and put it back together. I didn't redo the valve lash, nothing should change as the rockers don't effect the lash if they are put back in the same spot.

Here is a good install guide. http://www.glacierdieselpower.com/images/PDFs/ARP Head Stud Installation.pdf And some of my pics. You don't want to go fully hand tight, go hand tight then about 1/2 turn back off.

I have been looking for one for my 05 for years... maybe someone will post something good up!

Go get one out of the junkyard. Were you low on fluid, or have a habit of running it on the street?

Yeah lots of people get away with high boost for a long time, and others don't. Personally I didn't want to worry about it when towing with the family so I put studs in. I only run about 30-33 psi with the new turbo, but flow is a lot higher and the cam also really improves flow.. so I am running more cylinder pressure at 30 psi than other are with the stock turbo/cam. I got my studs for $400, which is a pretty easy to obtain price. You don't need the ARP 625's, the standard 2000's (aka 425's) are plenty for what you want to do. You will be good with the 425's to 55ish psi, probably more. The 625's are for o-ring/fire ringed heads and LOTS of boost. They are super easy to install and cheap insurance if your running 35+ psi of boost.

Are they stock head bolts?I have heard of some increasing the torque on them. Stock is 77 ft/lbs plus a 90° turn, puts them about 100ish ft/lbs. Some do re-torque them to about 120-130 ft/lbs, but they are a torque to yield bolt and some may stretch and need replaced, or worse yet break, if you do it. Get some ARP's and call it good.. Never need to worry again.

Winter fronts work wonders! I can idle at 1100 rpms in 25° weather and the coolant never gets cold enough for the EB to kick on.. And when moving at -10° its worth every penny!

Good deal, deletes make a world of difference on these trucks.

Install looks good!Depending on your mods that 6637 may not flow quite enough as its only rated for 425 CFM where the 2790 is rated for 680 CFM.

Gotcha, I had thought it was specific to the AAM axle.

Yes it does, there are no hubs or central axle disconnect on a 03+.

The u-joints are pre-sealed, just the front driveshaft cardigan joint has that "fitting".It's the only spot in the driveline that is greaseable.

It's not the u-joint it's the cardigan joint, as depicted in that first photo. Are your pics of the xcase side or axle side?You will have to lift a front tire off the ground and rotate the drive shaft until you find it. It looks just like that first photo, but probably dirtier. It's a PITA, SEVERE PITA!! I am never even sure if grease get's in mine, I attempt to grease it every 5K miles. It takes a #4 grease needle with the tip cut flat (they come like a syringe). Good luck, you will need it.

Service manual calls for 32 ft/lbs. Start at the bolt at the 1 o'clock position from the turbo mount and do a clockwise pattern working outward.

Why shim it? Cummins put it there for a reason, unless your running a LOT more power than stock I would assume that OEM oil pressure is good.