AH64ID

I do about what Mike does. I quit using the exhaust brake about 1-1.5 miles from the house and use 1 gear lower than I would to improve airflow. If I have been towing I run the idle at 1100 for a minute or so then shutdown below 350*. 350* is the max I'll shutdown at, but if I downshift in the neighborhood and wasn't towing its not uncommon for EGT's to be 200* when I pull in the drive and stop. I will be doing a post-turbo turbo timer in the future, and will set it to 400* with my VNT setup.

I remember reading you thread...I just can't make myself buy cheap o's.. I spend too much time miles and miles from people with my kids, and in the snow when hunting, the last thing I want to worry about is a cold soaked motor and batteries and my truck starting at 9K feet in a snow storm.

I know Smarty has done this with several HPCR ECM's, see if Bob can help you.

I agree... I have a friend with a 97 OBS 7.3L, I think his frame flexes more than his suspension!

So the batteries in my truck are 70 month old. They work great, no issues. They are a little slower in winter, but thats to be expected. They are not slow enough to even worry about... So here is the dilemma, they are 70 months old! I hunt 70 miles from the nearest electricity and if the weather turns to crap at 6-9K feet the starting power might be needed so I want new batteries. I am looking at Sears batteries as they give a great military discount. The two batteries I am looking at are the Sears Platinum and the Sears DieHard Gold. The Platinum is an Odessy battery with Sears paint (info direct from Odessy) and is rated at 950 CCA. The Gold is 750 CCA. The pair of Platinums will run $100 more than the pair of Gold's, and are one of the best batteries on the market, so its what I want. I don't want to worry about batteries when I am in the middle of the back-country with the kids. So I guess its not really a dilemma, just complaining about spending $325 on batteries when mine still work good! And I am doing batteries is the Wife's 4runner and my DD this winter too, both still have originals at 7 and 8 years old. So any input? Here is what Odessy has to say about the battery. http://www.odysseybatteries.com/battery/pc1750t.htm

I am sure the 15lb brain guys at Cummins have it pretty well dialed in for how the sensor sits and reads.

True.. I still think with the off-road mentality that "OFF" is a good idea on fans.. but with the OE clutch fan you can't turn it off, so stopping fans is a mute point.

Yep, it makes me wonder if you could get more power by reading from the same spot the 12V/HPCR do? Would the ECM fuel harder or softer with the cooler IAT's? I really think the air hitting the cylinders is the same in all 3 engines, just the placement on the 24V is suboptimal.

Why not just find a colder temp switch? Or find a way to locate the temp switch in the hot line. Personally I like the auto idea, I would use a 3 position switch. On - Off - Auto

I hit a new low with cruise IAT's a few weeks ago. Between Winchester and Lewiston, ID I ran 3-6* above ambient for about 25-30 miles, while its mostly downhill I have never ran that cool before.

Don't be knockin the man wagon, its almost half the cost per mile in fuel, and lets not even start talking oil or tires

The metal "T" is good, thats the new improved filter. And I was thinking 3rd gen when I mentioned the canister delete. That piece is not necessary on a 2nd gen.

Now thats funny :hyper: Along similar lines, it takes x hp to do 70 mph. It doesn't matter how many rpms your turning, it takes the same hp. With larger heavier tires the hp requirement goes up. So the only reason you can get better mileage is the parasitic drag from the drivetrain and accessories requires less hp at the new rpm than the tires take more of. On 12V trucks this is big, the static timing, the very simple injection setup and the older technology thruout the drivetrain will take more hp per rpm increase than VP44 trucks, and VP44 trucks take more than HPCR trucks. My dad has an 06 G56 (.79 OD) and he turns a lot more rpms than I do at 80, especially considering my 33" tires. At 80 he turns 2585 rpms, and I turn 2269 (my tires are 2.5lb heavier and turn 33 rev/mile less). We both run the same tuning, both have level kits, I have fender flares, but otherwise the trucks are very similar. I don't have a clear mpg advantage over him, sometime he will get better in a given condition and sometimes I will. Even when I ran a 285 AT, which was 6.5 lbs heavier and only 19 rev/mile fewer out mileage was near identical.

I have a 0-30 psi electric Pricol that has been great, was about $130 shipped from FTE. I know many folks on here have no issues with mechanical w/out isolators into the cab, but I have zero desire to pump fuel into my cab, nor to pump anti-freeze into the cab.

While not the cheapest, have you tried the Dodge house?

I wish mine were that easy.Mine costs $110.

That explains it!

When did you have the 3 cyl flash done? I have been under the impression that the 3yl flash is an actual SW flash, but maybe its just like the 3rd gen and its not a full flash, just an enabled option. But then again its also just my understanding that all current 2nd gen SW make the oil psi gauge fake, but maybe thats just an 01-02 thing as they seem to have more options and bigger ECM's. But you have an 01, so :banghead:

The injector return on a 24V (VP or CR) runs out the back of the head, so you need to "T" that into the VP return line somehow. A OE canister eliminator kit is an easy and clean way to do it. On the topic of the AD, what does the drain on your f/w sep look like? Plastic know or metal "T"?

Depending on the 2-cycle it may be Cat safe. I know the amsoil ones are, but never could find out on the Wally World stuff..I would also check your plugs after a thousand or so miles to check for fouling. Actual 2-stroke motors run a lot more oil, but plugs never last long and the only engines I have ever had plugs just stop working on me (while running) have been 2-strokes.

Yes it is very true. I am the guy who found and published the specs on the AD filters, and how little water they separated. Original AD water filters are rated at 20 GPH, 140um, 50% free water sep and 0% emulsified water sep. For reference the stock filters are rated at 95% free and 95% emulsified water sep. The current AD filter is the Luberfiner LFF9594 and is rated at 95% free water and 75% emulsified water sep at 20um at 90GPH. While its emulsified water sep falls below the OE level the AD f/w sep is pre-filter where 99.9% of water is free. So I would change your filter out for the Luberfiner at your earliest convince. Now on a side note, I am running 2 f/w seps on my truck. Both the filters are rated at 98% free and 95% emulsified water sep, and I haven't seen a drop of water in 30K miles. Modern fuel is much cleaner and drier than older fuel.. as long as the station does a good job once they receive it.

The NP203 is the only one that comes to mind, and its 70's technology.... Not exactly what I want.My 4Runner has a loackable Torsen, and that is the cats meow! Now if I could find one with a 1000 ft/lb rating :-)

What does your pressure read? Cold cruise should be about 80 psi, and warm idle is down at 20ish, normal cruise is about 55-60 at 2K rpms.

That is my understanding.

Using ISX's cost thats only $54 in savings. It would take over 20K miles to cover a 1K fine, and over 70K miles (at 20mpg) to pay for a $3,500 dollar fine.