AH64ID

Only 45K miles on my 1550's, but zero issues. My front u-joints have 140K on them, but they don't spin full time since 86K miles. My OE rear u-joints were still perfect when removed at 96K miles. They were removed because the carrier bearing was shot and I went to a 1 piece drive shaft. My truck doesn't lead an easy life. Lots of towing miles, lots of very dusty miles, and very little empty highway miles. Last year 49.5% of my miles were towing, and for the year I only averaged 12.82 mpg. I ran NAPA u-joints in a old beater toyota... won't touch those again. That was back when I thought NAPA sold decent parts. Dad's 06 got over 100K out of the OEM sealed, and he went with greasable. IIRC he's had to have them replaced already and they didn't have 50K miles on them but did have regular servicing. Do they have 100K miles on them or 366K miles? .

.45 ACP is my preferred round for 2 legged predators where I'm not worried about room departure. .40 S&W is my in home preferred round for 2 legged predators (some great home defense rounds that won't go room to room) 10mm Auto is my preferred round for 4 legged predators...220gr hard cast lead at 1200 fps will penetrate! (will open carry when the conditions warrant) None of those come in a pocket pistol. I've never been a big fan of the smaller calibers for defense, but I was once told that the 1st rule in a gunfight is to have a gun... and I'd rather have a smaller caliber than no gun. That being said I still don't think 9mm is worth it. Guns aren't quite small enough and I think 9mm is a crappy round. I don't even want one to plink with, as .22LR is still cheaper and FUN. All of that steered my towards .380. I started with a Keltec P3-AT in .380. It's small, holds 6+1 and was HORRIBLE to shoot. I also never liked +1 since it didn't have a safety, not even a Glock style triger safety. At the time is was really the only option. Now I have a S&W Bodyguard in .380 and think it's a great little pocket pistol (actually we have 2, his and hers). It has a real safety so I carried chambered, and it's not really any different in size than the Keltec but it is much more comfortable to shoot. It does have a built in laser too, if you're into those... I am not but that's another story. A buddy has gone the same route with Keltec, Bodyguard, and now has a Kahr. I haven't seen it yet, but it's smaller than the bodyguard. These are what live in the bodyguards. https://www.hornady.com/ammunition/handgun/380-auto-90-gr-ftx-critical-defense#!/

I run sealed u-joints for a couple reasons. First being that they are stronger, for the same size. Second is that they have a better seal to keep road grime out of them. I don't really care about the maintenance aspect of them, but with greaseable u-joints you have to be very proactive in maintenance on them since the seals are weaker. The new grease is used to push the old grease/contaminates out. I have AAM 1550 series u-joints in my truck now. The local driveline shop has had the best luck with AAM sealed u-joints. My 4Runner is going on 190K miles with the original greasable u-joints, but it gets greased every 5K miles and rarely gets used on dirt and doesn't tow.

Yeah... sometimes I wish I could just leave things alone!

Reloading is huge for me, especially since I shoot 300 H&H. Factory 300 H&H is under-powered and overpriced. I chose 7mm/08 over .308 because I reload. If I didn't reload I would have gone .308, but with reloading the 7mm/08 can out preform a .308 due to the same casing with a slightly longer and thinner bullet for the same weight. My wife shoots a .280 Rem with a 26" bbl and a muzzle brake, it's not a big deal for her to shoot at the range, but we don't get to shoot much. Most of her shooting is at fur, and even that's not often enough with the kids. Once the kids are gone I presume we'll get her hunting a lot more.

I was going to suggest this caliber too. To me the .243 is not a western US caliber for any big game hunting, unless you're whitetail hunting the low land in a stand... and even then I wouldn't have one. 7mm/08 is the caliber I bought for my girls to hunt with when the time comes. To combat any additional recoil that a 12yo girl might not like I'll be adding a muzzle brake and shooting reduced recoil loads, which IMHO is still much better in taking game than a .243. I grew up shooting a .243 a bit and it's a coyote gun to me, nothing bigger. .270 with a muzzle brake will shoot softer than .243.

My Jeep came with these, brand new too. I can't blame the shocks completely as I've never driven it without these shocks but I am shocked at how harsh the ride is for how soft the suspension is. To me it feels like cheap crappy shocks, but it will take time to tell as I'm likely not going to swap them out anytime soon.

As far as the trans is concerned the full line is the full line, so if you're not overfilled/underfilled on the dipstick you're fine That probably worth a call/e-mail to derale.

There is no fee to transfer to a bank account. The only fee comes out of the transfer if you’re paying for goods/services. Sending money to friends/family is 100% fee free.

Same... I prefer to stay away from it.

Paypal doesn't charge a penny if you're sending money to friends, which is what this is.

I think it's fine, as long as it warms up before you pour it in. I really don't even treat my fuel except for the beginning of winter or if I am going to a colder climate than where I bought the fuel. By this time all the stations should be winteriezed.

Which is basically a very dry version of #1 Diesel. Can you not get #1 up there?

Based on what I have seen on my truck the difference in 2 hours and 4 hours is barely noticeable on my ECT, so I doubt the difference is even felt in the cab.

Gotcha. I've always just used 1.5" with standard mounts and haven't ever measured it, which is pretty close to your 1.57".

Are you talking about setting it for "zero"?

Nope... pretty much a snowflake. I would certainly never load up a moly-coated 200gr Swift A-Frame, and then push it out the bbl at 3010 fps

Personally I would change the filter at 3K miles and then sample it at 7,500 miles...assuming it's less than a year. See where you are at. You probably could save some money on the power bill by only running the block heater for 2 hours. In my experience it takes 90 minutes to get to 90% of the peak temp. After that it rises very slowly and the difference from 2 hours to 4 hours probably isn't worth the cost.

5.9's don't really have a HG issue, and the CR 5.9's have one of the worst OEM cam profiles ever... if not the worst. Then again, I've heard the 6.7 and 5.9 CR's use the same grind, thou the part numbers are different. There was also some discussion years ago about the 03-04 cam vs the 04.5-07 cam being different and part of the reason the 03-04's were cleaner and more efficient but the 03 and 04.5 use the same part number and the builders I've talked to say they are the same. The cam profile was designed to create an in-cylinder EGR in lieu of having an external EGR, which in theory is a good idea. The intake duration is the longest of any ISB in a Dodge/Ram and the exhaust duration is the shortest. This really reduces flow thru the cylinder, as does the very restrictive turbine housing. All that being said the CR's that have HG issues are the 6.7's with too much timing or improper tuning. The 6.7 has Siamese cylinders so there is less HG materiel between the cylinders and with stock head bolt torque it's quite easy to blow the HG.

Lots more available power on a stock fuel system, and very easy to mis-tune since there is a pilot. Duration can be programmed to be too long easily, etc... Just more ways to mess it up. They also start at more power than VP trucks, aside from 03-04 Cali motors. Often times the pilot timing/quantity isn't adjusted to match the main timing/quantity and you end up with too much pilot being injected too soon (50°+ BTDC is a number that's easily obtainable with a stock pilot map). People also think about timing like they would a VP or P-pump, but it's just not the same. On a VP or P-Pump the timing is when the injection process starts at the injection pump. There are several degrees lost to metering, pressurizing, and overcoming pop pressure before fuel enters the cylinder. On a CR the timing is the point in which the injector opens and fuel enters the cylinder. The fuel is already at peak pressure which will increase customization and decrease ignition delay. Consider my cruise timing of 14.5° without a pilot compared to M1973M at around 20-21° (going from memory). With the differences in fuel systems there probably isn't much difference in when the fuel actually enters the cylinder. With a pilot I don't run more than 8° for cruise timing. Forgot to add.. the 04.5-07 pistons are not a forgiving design. Most re-builders are swapping to 03-04 style pistons on 04.5-07 builds.

What has your past OCI been? How long do you plan to run it? I never think it's a bad idea after switching to a good synthetic to do a shorter filter interval, it's cheap and easy. I'll be switching my Jeep 4.0 to synthetic at the next change and will do a short filter change interval on it as well.

I love it. I have it calibrated for where I hunt elk and it’s marked to 1000, thou that’s a bit far for hunting shots. I’ve shot it over 400 numerous times and it’s dead accurate... assuming a good range. A good range finder is mandatory with one, and not one of the ones that gives you “ballistic” range. You need one that gives you true horizontal range with no ballistic computation, which last I looked was hard to find. I have a Nikon Rifle Hunter 1000 and it does the angle math for me, so I can range, adjust the dial and fire.

Not a big fan of guns... but if I was an elk hunter I’d probably have a Rem 700 in 300 H&H, a 26” Lilja barrel with a custom muzzle brake, McMillan stock, and a Leopold VX-3 3.5-10 with a custom drop compensate dial on it. Maybe a nice bi-pod too :-)

How is that turbo balanced? As a unit or each individual part?

Heresay is going to be what most people go on for turbos, and many other parts too. Not that many people replace them, and no one wants to do it twice so many are willing to spend the money on name brand. I’ve personally only ran 2 turbos, but I’ve talked with several people over the years who haven’t had luck with no-name turbos. Not forums, but personal conversations. So that’s not a personal experience, but it’s good enough for me. Yes, the internet is full of horror stories as most people don’t chime in when something works as advertised... but sell them a crappy part and they’ll tell everyone. Then again when I was younger and the internet wasn’t much of a thing I bought a lot of car parts store parts and I replaced them often! They just weren’t worth their price, but I had no way of knowing how many others had the same issues. So the internet isn’t all bad ? I’ve been researching water pumps for my 4.0 TJ and almost bought a AC Delco (a brand that generally gets good reviews) for 1/3 the price of OEM. All my research led me down the OEM path thou, no complaints on OEM and lots of aftermarket complaints... some brands worse than others. I also just put a cheaper fuel pump in my VW Jetta, despite some reviews but it never leaves town... so it’s not as important to me as the Cummins or Jeep that I’ll head to the hills in. Long story short, but buy what you want to spend your money on. Take others people experiences for what they are, realizing many are jaded but still normally valuable experiences.