AH64ID

Often the gas leaks out.

My 19.5" wheels and tires are 125lbs a piece and the 5100's do a great job. They have just under 50K miles on them.

I’ve got 5100’s on my truck and they are the best shock I’ve run on any rig. Great empty, loaded, and on back roads. I’ll never touch another Rancho.

Did your trans not shift like butter with the engine off before? Mine always has. The thicker fluid might grab at the worn syncro's better, and like you said it might not. No way to tell without trying. SAE50 is thicker than both the Amsoil MTL and cold/cool Redline 75w-90, so there isn't much surprise it needs to warm up.

I honestly can't stand how most aftermarket hitches mount. That's a 16K/17K lb rated hitch that doesn't mount as good as the OEM one, at least on the 3rd gens. The fact that it only bolts to the bottom of the frame scares me. When I needed to replace my OEM hitch I looked at Curt, Titan/Reese, and whatever else was out there. I settle on the Titan/Reese soley for it's mounting. It used the OEM mounting location and additional locations to support the added ratings. It was a 2.5" receiver, but a little welding fixed that.

I suspect the animals will be moved out until next year, but the deer next few years will go crazy. They love post burned areas. All in all it didn’t look too bad from the air.

I got a birds eye view of the fires aftermath today. Looks to have not been too hot in many places, and had a decent burn pattern. Hopefully there won’t be any crazy flooding or landslides from it.

Gotcha. That would explain it. Thru all the reviews I read I decided to start with a surface mount instead of drilling a hole.

That’s hot! My thermometer only goes to 800° and I have yet to see over 600°.

I’m curious to see how this does. I have 16’ of single wall and then 5’ of class A chimney pipe. When it’s 400° 12” above the stove it’s 180° where the single pipe ends. It won’t get choked down too much with the size of the shop, so that will help out with creosote production.

I passed inspection, if you want to call it that, and am burning away! This is turning out to be a great little stove. +10°F outside when I lit the fire in the shop this morning. Shop is already 42° and rising quick, still only +15°F outside.

Quick question. Why use an Auto ECM with a Ford Trans? I ask because I'm tuning for a guy with a similar truck, but he's using a 04.5 motor. He had the ECM flashed from auto to manual to use with the Ford trans.

My MM3 plugs in under-hood as well and with that attachment I got a whole bunch of data that isn't available thru the OBD port and it's kinda nice... in a nerdy way :-)

Correct, more a limitation of OBDII and the sensor/ECM. The quad just reads those signals. In true OBDII reading the max MAP sensor limit is 37 psi, which is 37 psia on 3rd gens, or 23 psig at sea level. So on OBDII readings the max boost is 23psig.

Haha.. me too, which is why I won't own Android, they break like Fords in my experience :-) There is a reason I'm restricted to apple devices for flight software.

My iPhone will charge on it's 1A charger as fast as my dads android on his fast charger (3A??)... that just tells me that Android phones need a considerably bigger battery to have any life, so maybe Android phones should catch up and use less power :-)

Couple of things... The quad is limited by the OEM gauge and probably can't read above 37, thou other's may know the exact number. If the boost is the same with the line pinch and not pinched then the WG is likely set higher than 43 and that's all the boost you're going to get with the fuel you have. I don't get anywhere close to the WG setting on my turbo as it doesn't need to drive that hard. Boost is simply a measure of restriction, so you can have lower boost and more airflow depending on the flow thru the head. The turbo will have an effect on this. I run about 6 psi less boost with this turbo than I did with the stock one, and that's with about 50-75 more rwhp. Heck, I run less boost (28) than stock (32) with 150 more rwhp and cooler EGTs (some airflow and some timing). So don't get hungup on the boost number, but rather does it smoke WOT or run too high of EGT?

I put a 3 port cigarette lighter behind the dash and “permanently” installed power for my GPS and SiriusXM behind the dash. The plug on the 3 port has a 90° connection so it lives on my lower non-switch OEM plug and isn’t obtrusive at all. This way I can unplug it when the truck is parked more than a couple days. I then have a 12V to double USB plug I use for charging things such as a phone or iPad. Its similar to this one Cable Matters 2-Pack 10W 2A Mini Dual USB Car Charger for iPhone / Android Smartphones Including iPhone X/ 8/7, Galaxy S9/S8/Note8, iPad Air/Mini, Sony Xperia, Google Pixel/Nexus, LG G6/V30 and More https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00MH3USBE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_hPy5BbA324C2S I don’t like the ones that are above 2A as they can damage smaller devices such as phones. 2A will charge a phone very fast and not do any damage to the battery. I’m not even sure I’d want to run 3A to my iPad which is designed for 2A.

Sounds like it's stuck open. By rubber ring do you mean a gasket? They should all have one. Lots of horror stories with non-Cummins thermostats. I'd replace it with one made by Cummins.

Lots of fluids with the same spec are not created equal. Just look at oils, anything from cheap dino, cheap synthetic, or expensive synthetic all meet the same spec, but they are all quite different oils in terms of how they work and protect. If meeting spec was all that mattered we would all be running cheap Fram filters. I think that's the first place I've ever seen GL-4 and Syncromesh on the same bottle! It's always been presumed that Syncromesh was a GL-4 based fluid, or a variant there of... I've just never seen an OEM state it. Even other Valvoline brochures for that fluid don't mention it. Valvoline spec's that fluid for both NV-4500's and NV-5600's....as well as the G-56. http://www.carquestprofessionals.com/catalogs/chemicals/V-8070 Manual Transmission Fluid Application Guide 6.6.13.pdf

Those weights are off the bottom of the chart. Run 35 psi and see how it wears.

Absolutely, but finding a scale isn’t always that feasible for many people. There are plenty of good ways to determine proper pressure without a scale. I like the chart as a starting point if you don’t have easy/free access to a scale. I wouldn’t go much below 30 anyhow for any rig that might see 55+ frequently, regardless of weight.

I’m a big fan of the HD long life coolants. The one I am running now is maintenance free for 8 years. It’s Peak Final Charge. It meets CES 14603.

To do it properly yes, but you can set it for GAWR and watch the wear pattern. Luckily on a 1/2 ton the empty weight and the GAWR won’t be that different. I’d guess 35 is where he ends up for even wear.

New tires often feel squishy for 500-1000 miles, so it may not be the air pressure. A 70 series sidewall will also flex a lot more than a 55 series. I use this chart quite often. https://www.toyotires.com/media/2125/application_of_load_inflation_tables_20170203.pdf Top of page 23 has your tire size. 35 psi will give you 4000lbs per axle, loaded evenly.