AH64ID

Depends on the task you’re doing. Tq check is different that re-tq. Everything I have ever done with HG's is a re-torque, and not a tq check.. but that has been with studs and not bolts. That's likely the difference. The OE manual for my 05 is this... a. Torque bolts to 70 N·m (52 ft. lbs.) b. Back off 360 degrees in sequence c. Torque bolts to 105 N·m (77 ft. lbs.) d. Re-check all bolts to 105 N·m (77 ft. lbs.) e. Tighten all bolts an additional 1⁄4 turn (90°) If that's the same as a 2nd gen, then yes a torque check is fine. But the FSM steps do have you release torque, this ensures you get a full 77 lb/ft not a partial one.

If something is torqued to 77 lb/ft it will take more than 77 lb/ft to get it moving again, so yes you want to break torque and then retorque. You always want the tq wrench to click while you are moving it, not while it's starting. If you reset the ratchet and it instantly clicks you need to back the bolt/nut off and try again. On a new head gasket it wont hurt to hit 77 lb/ft, break them loose one by one and reset to 77 lb/ft, then do the 1/4 turn... or whatever it calls for. Doesn't the FSM have you torque all of them to a lower value, then back off, then torque to 77 lb/ft?

It's not likely, but it's not spec'd for the application so if you do then you are on your own.

That's just the flame pattern from the fuel burning during the beginning of the power stroke. Different bowl design, but this is the spray pattern on my stock 05 pistons. Lots of towing, and almost all of it with advanced timing.

How often do you tow heavy, vs just drive it easy? I'm going to guess you spend more time empty/easy than heavy up a grade. The spray pattern is where the flame cleans the piston off, and that takes high heat.

How's the healing going?

Personally I think there is a reason they aren't spec'd for the ISB's in our trucks, and only for lower hp industrial ISB/QSB's. The size of the filter just isn't there to be really good at both full flow and bypass flow, and still get decent filter life. There are plenty of guys running them, but not me. I'd rather run the DBL7349 that is far better than OEM, and I know it's got enough media/flow. I just got 2 of them for $12.75/ea to the door on Amazon.

They are quite good as well very even coverage and bright.

I have to say that I am very impressed with the OEM lights. I don't have the fogs with highs enabled, but I'm still hoping the local dealership will do it. The lows do stay on with the highs which is nice.

Did my first tow this past weekend. FAW: 5120 RAW: 7080 GVW: 12260 TAW: 7380 GCW: 19,640 I am quite impressed with the truck. It handled the weight like it wasn't there. Overall it was effortless on winding mountain roads. The 6.7 has more power from idle thru 2000 rpms than my 05 did, and I think the same or slightly less from 2200-2500 but it's hard to tell as the gearing is also difference (taller gears and larger tires). I haven't had the need to run it higher, and really it rarely went above 2000-2200 anyhow. The auto-level suspension is awesome and worth it for anyone considering a 2015+ 3500. I loaded up the quads and the trailer, climbed in and hit "ALT Trailer Height" and the rear drops just over an inch to engage the HD overloads. It sits perfectly level all the time in this mode. The ride is stable and comfortable at the SRW RAWR. No appreciable body/suspension sway. Fuel economy was about the same as the 05 on the same trip, at just over 10.5... can't complain about that considering all the emissions on this thing. It was a little different dealing with an auto, but I was happy to have it as we meandered thru traffic leaving town. The programming is quite good, as it will allow the engine to hold 90-100% load in 4th without downshifting if the truck is holding speed. It didn't ever hunt for gears, and never was in the wrong gear. The auto and the exhaust brake is nice, but I still find myself selecting gears manually.... thou that's likely more habit that anything. The integrated brake controller is proportional to the pedal position, like the max brake I had on my 05, and it works very well. The truck keeps track of the miles towing, so as soon as the brakes are disconnected the trailer odo stops recording. I thought that was kinda cool as I have always tracked my towing mile. The trailer does need new brakes, and will get them before my next trip. They just didn't show up in time. The family was much happier with more room and a quieter ride. It was easy to hear the audiobooks and carry on different conversations front and rear.

Their specs are off. HO has been available with an auto since 2003, and was only available with an auto starting in "2011.5". 03-04 had 3 ratings Standard 250/460 with the NV4500 or 48RE (some early 03 47RE's too) H.O. 305/555 with the NV5600 or 48RE Cali 235/460 with the NV4500 or 48RE (some early 03 47RE's too) 04.5-07 had 1 rating H.O. 325/610 (600 in 04.5) with the 48RE or NV5600 (04.5-05.5) or G56 (05.5-07) There there are the 6.7 ratings 07.5-10 350/650 68RFE 350/610 G56 11-12 H.O. 350/800 68RFE (arrived late 2011, early 2011 have 350/650) 350/610 G56 13-18 350/650 G56 370/800 68RFE H.O. 385/865 AS69RC (865 in 15, 900 in 16/17, 930 in 18) 19 370/850 68RFE H.O. 400/1000 AS69RC 325 means 04.5 as well. Yes, it's a H.O.... but there was no S.O. in that year.

Very religiously... even around town driving gets a little turbo cool down time. On my 05 I had a pre and post turbo and the biggest thing I noticed with those was that the pre temps could look cool, but the post said otherwise. It just meant that I let it idle a little longer. The turbo and oil will thank you for letting them cool down. I generally don't shut down for restroom stops, just let it idle and lock it with the keyfob. Same normally goes for refuel stops while towing.

Each turbo dissipates the noise, and straight piped twin turbo truck just isn't nearly as loud as a single turbo truck.

Who built the trans?

Lights are really hard to document with photos, but wow! Looks like a lot of work, but glad it will pay off. I've heard that the '18's got different projectors than the earlier models... not sure thou. All I know is I have zero complaints about the lights in the truck, they are very bright. I like how the low beams stay on with the highs, now I just need to get the dealer to enable fogs with high's.

Just wanted to share the part numbers for adding a factory skid plate. The skid plate package was $100+, as it has a universal cross member for all trucks. The diesel trucks do not need the cross member, as the DEF tank sits on a robust cross member that holds the skid plate. What you need is 1 ea: 68089777AB 4 ea: 6509896AA I got them at my local Ram parts department for a grand total of $47.05.

Personally I like the FASS 95 GPH pumps, as they don't outflow their filters like the AD or 150 GPH pumps. 95 GPH is plenty of fuel. FASS also has standard sized filter threads, and easily added fuel heaters.

I stick with sealed as well, stronger and typically last longer. The only greasable joints I've had any luck with is OE Toyota stuff. 187K on the 4Runner and still going strong, my older 4Runner and P/U were the same, even with wheeling and oversized tires.

4” is plenty for 500-600 rwhp. A 5” just causes more drone at lower power levels. My 05 had a 4” flo-pro with a 51” Donaldson muffler. Zero, and I really mean zero, drone. That was from idle thru WOT at 400 rwhp, even up to 23K GCW. Throaty but not abnoxious, and never at a volume that disrupted anything in the cab. Most of the aftermarket diesel mufflers don’t have the attenuation or flow to match the needs of a mild-moderate 5.9. If you look at the Donaldson catalog you will realize how big a muffler needs to be to meet the flow and have proper attenuation... then you’ll realize most the popular diesel mufflers are anemic and just don’t cut the sound properly. Screaming and drone are two very different things. So does it drone or scream?

My 05 either. Bone stock seals, just didn't let it sit out under heavy snow. I'll be adding them to my '18 and don't expect they will leak either.

White or bluish-grey? I agree it’s probably turbo seals, but the startup oil smoke sounds more like valve guides. Most likely on the exhaust side, but is pull the compressor outlet pipe and check it for oil.

I used header wrap on my down pipe from the turbo until just past the fast coolers. I think that would suffice and provide a cooler trans most of the time, with the only exception being high power at low speed.

I just replaced the foam in my 05 before selling it. I went with the Geno’s upgraded foam and it was very easy to install and a huge improvement.

But it’s so easy to fool the mindless masses.

G56 has always been ATF+4 from Dodge/Ram and GL-4 from MB. So nothing has changed there since it’s release. NV-5600 only gets ATF+4 recently from Dodge, LONG after any warranty period. Dealerships don’t care much about longevity after the warranty expires. What is a fact is that NV-4500’s and NV-5600 use different synchros from the factory. This is why they use different fluids. Also, don’t be fooled by the “cheaper” Delvac 50wt. I can get the proper Amsoil fluid as cheap or cheaper.