AH64ID

Take a look at the Geno's HD replacement. I always preferred the seats in my 05 to Dad's 06, and after I put the Geno's HD cushion in they were even better!

What about OEM Laramie seats? My Laramie seats are much more comfortable than my Dads BigHorn seats.

When someone comes up on me like that I decrease my rate of acceleration. It’s constant and annoying.

It should pop right out, mine did when I did my spin-free kit.

I've got solar, a 1500W inverter, and a I still carry my EU2200. I installed a MicroAir Easy Start so I can run the AC on the 2200w gen, and sometimes I have to augment the solar when it's cloudy, shady, or cold. I do prefer the trips where the gen never gets unpacked thou.

I would look at a 9K BTU unit and a MicroAir EasyStart. It will work well on your 2K Watt Gen.

If it’s going out the tailpipe then odds are good it’s a head gasket issue. Cylinder pressure is high, but not always. Cylinders go thru many different pressure levels with normal rotation/combustion. any evidence of soot in the coolant?

An MM3 with UDC Pro is what I would run. UDC Pro has more tables that can be adjusted and that leads to a better daily driver. The MM3 is the same hardware as the Touch but doesn’t have the canned tunes, which you don’t need. The MM3 also comes with the commod included, while the touch doesn’t. My 05 had some good mods: cam, turbo, injectors, pistons, and tuning. It ran cleaner than stock and had no issues passing emissions. Which bully dog was on the truck? Some are very similar to basic S06/Touch Smarty tunes, some are not. The basic Smarty tunes are better thou. Aside from a very few trucks that ended up being recalled all G56 5.9’s have 3.73’s. With the G56 AD ratios the 35’s are helping out quite a bit. On 04.5-06 5.9’s the timing really falls off above 2000 rpms and takes the mileage with it. Nothing some tuning can’t fix thou. Light load, like the downhill from Riggins to Ontario, and sub-2000 rpms will get great mileage.

We used the inreach this last weekend to relay to 911 for a guy who tripped near the hot springs and hit his head pretty hard. Being 35 miles from the pavement we where able to get EMS enroute. Not sure where they met, but it was much faster than them just going directly to the hospital in Boise.

I also make sure I'll survive the weather. Food/water always live in the truck too. I also have a Garmin inReach since I do a lot of travel in areas without cell service.

As @Mopar1973Man mentioned you just cannot carry enough parts or tools to be covered. I use to carry way too much stuff and never needed most of it. I carry an air compressor (hard mounted), tire pressure gauge, and a plug kit. I make sure all fluids are good to go before hand, and carry 1 qt of oil, 2 fuel emergency de-gel's in the winter, and really that's it for the truck. Spare fuel filters wouldn't be a bad idea, but not a requirement. For me the trailer is the thing I worry about most so I have a trailer TPMS setup and carry a spare bearing/race/seal, tools, and grease. I also have a small tool kit for basic repairs on the trailer. The trailer aid plus is great for changing tires on a tandem axle trailer, as is a 20V impact gun. So I would just do all your appropriate maintenance, repack the bearings on the trailer, and have a credit card ready just in case you need parts.

More than likely its a bad gauge cluster that the 06's are known for. The main thing that fails is the tach. You should get a CEL if the rpms vary between the CPS and Cam sensor.

Glad it's up and running! With a G56 and 33's it's probably geared about right. The AD G56 (05.5-07) runs about 6% lower in each gear, aside from 5th, than the NV5600. It's like a NV5600 with 4.10's. How warm on the grades? The stock programing runs very warm on that generation, up to 1450° is normal under load and 1200° isn't anything abnormal empty. I am not sure you will get accurate MPG's thru the dash, the burn rate reporting/calculating on the ECM is where the errors come from... especially with +50 nozzles. The duration table is based on injector testing in a stand, not in the vehicle and as soon as you change the flow with mileage and/or nozzles it's way off and unfortunately it's not linear.

I use 75w-90 Amsoil in my 4Runner and truck. The 05 was changed at 50K mile intervals and always looked new. The 18 will get changed a little more often until the warranty is up, then likely the same. The 4Runner was changed at 30K, then at 100K, and just recently at 200K (all odo readings, not intervals) and the used Amsoil lube is always in great shape. The lube with 100K miles on it felt like new lube. The factory fill on my 18 was toast after 15K miles, despite the 20K mile service life. So if you ask me the brand of synthetic does make a huge difference and it’s often with a few extra bucks, especially when you can reduce the services too. I need to do all the fluids in my Jeep and will be using Amsoil 80w-90 only over the 75w-90 because it’s cheaper and the Jeep only gets a few thousand miles a year and doesn’t tow anything. I’ll never have to change it again unless it gets contaminated.

After reading the other two threads on TDR it’s worth an investigation into the pop pressure. Maybe it’s as simple as calling F1, but you might have to remove them to have them tested. You also had some surging at idle, which low pop would effect too.

Which tuner deletes the stock program? Not any I've worked with, they all just modify it. It's 100% custom and changed, but still based on the stock programming and all it's parameters.

They aren't bad, just not as strong as they could have been given a different route for meeting the emissions tier at the time. It's common practice these days to use 03-04 pistons on rebuilds, or even 03-04 injector spray pattern on 04.5-07 pistons. I wouldn't call that a software delete, it's more of a stealth delete. The software is disabled, not missing. You have to either remove or gut the DPF, if you leave the DPF and have regen disabled you WILL have serious issues. It will likely pass a visual inspection (thou some are now looking for soot in the tailpipe) but not always guaranteed to pass a sniff test, depending on the tune.

Allegedly Cummins spec’d the pump, not FCA. Cummins was trying to avoid an external EGR so they used a non-reentrant piston deign. That piston has a very shallow bowl and thin lip which makes it more prone to melting and doesn’t tolerate high cylinder temps like other pistons. It also leads to less efficient combustion which leads to more soot in the oil. When I put 03-04 pistons/injectors in my 05 the difference was amazing. Not one bad thing to say about the swap. The blue lines are with OE injector spray patterns. You can see the difference in fuel spray/combustion.

It’s certainly more experience, and not as simple either.... especially with the 04.5-07 piston design. Ram was also in the CP4 club for 19-20, but went back to a CP3 for 21. Rumor is the CP4 is 1/2 the cost of a CP3, yikes!! It runs at higher pressures too.

Is this a heavy tow truck or not? You claim it is, until the mods don’t match... hence the questions and comments. I’d go with ~100hp injectors for heavy towing and go from there. Even those won’t use as much as stock duration for a heavy tow tune, and might use stock duration for a light tow tune. The CR world isn’t the same as the VP world.

Gotcha. Bummer, those are expensive. Still, the stock turbo can’t push 650 without running too hot. 500-550 is feasibleish. What injectors are you looking at?

You are overly optimistic planning on towing heavy and using most of that clutches capacity with the stock turbo. Even a hot non-tow tune on the stock turbo doesn’t need that much clutch. You can still have a very powerful and effective heavy tow tune, just not at 650 (or even close). Glad it’s up and running thou! Trucks sitting broken sucks. Is the current wastegate solenoid broken?

I’ve driven that clutch with a G56 a bit and they are quiet, at first. Unfortunately it doesn’t last and the gear rollover on a dual disk G56 is horrible. Why a dual disk? You can’t tow heavy at 650rwhp on a G56 or stock cooling system... let alone stock turbo. Setting up a G56 to tow heavy doesn’t need a dual disk, just a 400-450hp single disk. Which is more than enough for a heavy tow tune on a stock turbo. Smoother and quieter. 50-100hp injectors and a custom tune on any of the custom platforms will be best. Bigger injectors, the stock turbo, and box tunes don’t do as well for towing as it’s too much duration. Just for reference I ran ~80% of the stock duration with my BBi Stage 1’s and put down 415/850 to the rear wheels. No box tune does that, and they all would have run much hotter too. I still prefer the MM3/Touch as they have more tables to adjust for better driveability, at least the last time I checked. If you have any CR custom tuning questions shoot me a note.

It highly unlikely you have brown bears (aka Grizzly or ursus arctos) around the house, most likely just a brown colored Black Bear (ursus americanus). From what I recall something like 90% of the Black Bears on Idaho are brown, but they aren’t called brown bears unless they are a Grizzly. There have been confirmed, but fairly rare, sightings of grizzly’s NE of Riggins in unit 14, but closer to the Elk City side of the unit. If you do happen to have a confirmed grizzly sighting near your house you should report it to IDFG. Don’t forget coyotes, wolves, and tourists on your list As far as spring we’re having some beautiful days down here, but still cold in the morning. It was 13° Friday morning and 16° yesterday. Today is warmer at 22°. At least it’s pushing 60° in the afternoons.

Back when I daily drove my 05 I would use the block heater, not so much for better starting but for quicker heat. The 05 was VERY cold blooded and took 15-18 miles to get warm on a cold day. With a winter front installed I found that 90 minutes of block heater operation was optimal. In 90 minutes the block would get ~90% of the temp it would overnight at a fraction of the cost. It only took a couple weeks for the outdoor timer to pay for itself. I’ve only used the block heater on the 18 a couple times. It lives in a unheated shop most nights and even on really cold nights the shop doesn’t get too cold. The 18 also warms up much faster. On the 05 If I remembered to turn the heater to defrost it would do a great job keeping the windshield free of ice the next morning. It doesn’t take much heat for that, and there is enough connective movement of the coolant to get a little warm air to the windshield.