JOHNFAK

I heard CAT was running this - or someone ....... any good ?? Its pretty cheap right ? Specific one or just the walmart one ?? Also - I wanna stay away from FRAM at walmart - but they do a MOPAR 280 filter or something ..... can that be used ?? Any good ?? Or stay away ......(Can't do oil change at my RV park -> so thinking of just taking to wallyworld ......) :shrug:Seems to be DELO/ROTELLA/QUAKER for around $45 +tax ..... including filter .... (fram/mopar)

Which Kit do you use ? How useful do you find it ? Worth doing ?

Any tips on cleaning engine ??? Without pulling it .......*) Cleaning dust etc on TOP*) Cleaning thick oil deposits from previous years of ownership in hard to reach places :cookoo:What works best and whats safe in terms of not damaging electrical ......

Yeah - the overhead will be close when stock -> and should say higher than you get when on - eg Mine reads 24 on long highway and I know when I hang calculate it will be 20. Same for city 18->14. Does the truck ever have problems starting or run rough ??? The only thing that stands out on what your saying is *) You get worse mileage with the COMP on {like the timing doesn't advance as it should} *) You had previous lift pump issues. Wondering if you could have damaged the VP44 -> can you scan for codes with a scanner - see if you ever threw a code like P0216 ?? That could result in lower mileage. I don't have much experience with 4x4 + 2x4 driving together with #1 fuel to be able to tell you - but I could see them impacting fuel economy - especially if you never get the truck very arm before you turn off to do some work. The 'key' here seems to be the comp gives you worse mileage - that .. with the lift pump issue is what makes me think maybe something to do with your vp44 - maybe see if you can get a good scanner on it and see if anyone else chimes in on that thought ......

Yeah - and I know/agree what your thinking/said before - about trying to fix the source of the problem - isolate the bad voltage/wiring signal. But for plebs like me sometimes it might be too hard - so good to know there's a fix you can try inbetween thats not going to kill the budget. As for auto's -> because of the solenoids in the VB etc that work off voltage signals to open/close and control the TC lockup and otehr things ...... you guys just have a mechanical clutch ..... don't know what electrical goes in yours (if anything) hahaha !!

Dunno - most people get a mpg increase due to timing of the boxes I guess I would start out with the obvious - and go from there Tire Size ? Brakes and bearings ok ? Not dragging ? In 2WD ? Front driveshaft spins freely ? No Codes for VP44 (damaged vp44 can no longer advance timing) Fuel as mentioned (#1 or #2) How much stop/start driving and speed ? Do you get a "marked" increase in power with the comp on 5x5 .... and do you run it on this level with the vp44 tapped ? If you have a large power increase and have the vp44 tapped, and run in 5x5 ....... on stock tires without major issues I would expect 17-21 mpg on HWY @60MPH and 12-15 pure city driving. Any figures from just highway driving and answers to questions above ??

http://www.cumminsperformanceparts.com/bd94do5cudia.html

MERRY XMAS FELLAS !!!!

those are actually neat ....... in the end .... think I am going to DO THIS http://www.quadzillapower.com/products/index.cfm/p/iQuad hahaha thx fellas

welcomenice rig/setup

subscribed. What are your baseline ambient and IAT temps to compare ??? Are you using the scanguageII to do this ?More details on the test and instruments plz sir MM So one more question - I thought part of the purpuse was engine protection - kinda to prevent overfueling before the engine was warmed up - any bad side effects to this ??

makes sense that info was for Russ on the boost fooling for the xzt+ and general for the HX35/HY35 -> why you need both the fooler and the physical restriction. See info above. Running stock as you were you probably never saw above 22PSI boost. It realy starts to whine above that - as well as removal of the silencer ring if you like to hear it - I hated it to begin with - now I am "ok" with it. If your gonna tow - you going to need to have the J-HOOK on that HY35. Else look at a HX35 for a $100 swap (cheapest options).

I *think* the xzt does boost fooling. But to enable the higher boosts over stock you need to physically restrict the wastegate. HY35 requires J-HOOK to allow wastegate restriuction to go from 23-35psi HX35 requires boost elbow to allow wastegate restriuction to go from 23-35psi I think without boost fooling - you will normally throw a code (Boost Pressue to high) From QUAD site "On 1998.5-2004 5.9L Cummins you will need to physically modify your wastegate to gain more turbo boost. Doing this without the Boost Fooler will result in check engine lights and codes set into the computer. Stock 98-04 trucks should generate 18-23psi of boost pressure stock (depending on year model). With the Boost Fooler you will be able to run 35+ psi of boost depending on your fueling enhancements." The extra 12 PSI allows for reduced EGT's when towing ......... but you wanna keep it around 30 for HY and 35 for HX max. JUICE/QUAD can power down at limits - XZT can't .......

more ...

Some pics as I get ready to "clock" the turbo housings My good friend jim suggested to remove each component - make alignmnet and installation easier - and I'd say he was spot on She looks VERY CLEAN

whats it cost to get head work done eg head offmachinednew gaskettinstalled and (if existing head gaskett issue) head offmachinedO-RINGEDcleaned (radiator and other leaks etc from blown head gask) new gaskettinstalled

You can adjust the TPS/APPS cable at the top (google it/or theres a thread or 2 here that have the link ) - or you can bend the plate back on tranny to give an extra 1/2" inch on the kickdown lever - saw a builder do this. If you shift to early -> you lug the motor down in a low rpm range -> which puts more stress on everything including tranny ..... I think generally want to shift around 1700-1800rpm under light throttle. For racing ?? Dunno ....... would still think you want to get the efficient shift points (1700rpm) so your not lugging , but you may need more fuel and bigger turbo to push your acceleration into lockup quicker ... as long as your rebuild can handle it.

Link doesn't work for me ...... I already have TRANS and FuelPressure .... thinking about swapping out my juice for a COMP and getting an EGT gauge cheap ... then save $200 ...... not sure ...... Yeha W/m is ok - still need some tuning - hardest part is their is no display to see how much its spraying ...... so its tuning by feel ;)

Blocks the wastegate on a HY35 turbo to allow more than 22 PSI. Same as a boost elbow on HX35

hey man hows things link ???

Best value for money ?? Glowshift ???

Yeah I pm'd Russ and you just reminded me I owe him a PIC. This it it russ - best $3 MOD you will do to your truck - period ........ once you get that 60-70HP tune on and this .... and your guages .... see what your EGT's are doing towing. Sure they will be fine with the turnbuckle ......... else a HX35 like what I am about to do. (about $75 swapover cost when you sell your HY35 ") Its a pretty easy job to do - but you need 2x people to make it real easy due to tight space (thans isx ) ..... but man - WHAT A DIFFERENCE the extra 10PSI boost makes going up hills towing:)