JOHNFAK

awesome !! subscribed

Man thats awesome - that your back on road and that price !!! Wher edid you get your tranny gone through for that ??

http://dodgeram.org/tech/dsl/FAQ/turbo_faq.htm USeful info here

Hell no !!! (not anymore)

Wow - cool pics - congrats man !!! Now you need to setup twin babyseats in the back of that truck !

Hell ISX - you should take that beast for a drive.

haha - yeah - isx is building it for me and I am going to get the 411 next week Electronics my flying blind zone

Hey cool pics. Yeah - I think that top (left) bolt was probably the leaky one - when attached is it closest to drivers side ? Thats interesting stuff. Like your idea of testing if it holds PSI through a compressor somehow once fixed with a good thread sealer. I know it was a realtively slow/small leak - dropped around 1/4 freon in a month. Is that some sort of flutter valve in middle ? The fingers - so vanes underneath or something ?

Used a $3 turnbuckle from lowes - and keep it under 30 PSI I'm about to do same ....

Sorry mate - on the road. Almost ... Tranny -> OE heat exchanger -> OE cooler on drivers side front radiator -> AUX cooler -> tranny IN So basically the return line to the tranny I cut the line out from the OE cooler and removed from tranny. I then connected soft tranny to line to/from AUX cooler. To connect AUX cooler line to OE cooler - I just used supplied barbed thread (on cooler) and bought a double sided barbed thread 1/2" for connecting the two soft lines at the front from lowes. To connect to tranny - I bought a 2 piece -8AN part from lowes - 8AN into tranny and barbed thread to soft line comming in. Seems to be ok. Jim (SASQUACH) who I got/stole most of my setup from just 'cut' the IN tranny line - and then used a metal hose clamps x2 on each connection - and he said its holding fine P.S - I noticed my tranny fluid on the ROAD is 20 degrees cooler just by having the AUX cooler - no fan even running - just due to extra airflow running over it. Normally 180 - not 160. Again I just have the fan and switch for around twon not locked up - hence its off when on highway.

Thats frigggin impressive !!!! Towing and all - and not a 3k atv trailer - hahahah bow to you sir

Yeah - currently it hasn't stalled since ........ does drag down the rpm a little though ......... maybe from 850 to 600 now ..... so 250rpm ...... so guessing itwas 300rpm or more before when stalling. Jacob - any ideas on injectors/pop pressure causing any issues ................. just curious as you probably sell a bunch of them .............. seems to be a bit of a trend with new injectors and this isue - but to be honest - seems like lots of different things are changed so nonone has tied down specifically ......... Anyone mentioned anything to you before ?

Yeah wonder why ....... cause I'm building as you tell me - hahhaha Still a bit scared to put my truck on the dyno with all the issues I've had - sure that manual of yours could handle it better I must say the truck is starting to feel good on power as well as shifting/riding. Just need to get some confidence back in her Will be towing to NC or AZ in next couple weeks - see how she holds up Not expecting any issues. Then in JAN?FEB off to west coast.

Dunno - he has laways done right by me and the guys I know who have dealt with him. I DO know he can be a bit laxed on returning calls etc. Try calling him again - try from different phones in case he's screening your call - semi-joke I do what your saying saying about your order sounds not great tho ! - good luck

Yeah - I wish I had a good pic of the 'before' but never wanted a pic of it before You can get an idea of the condition of it from the pic at the top of thread where the trim and bull bar are all pulled off ready for cleaning/sanding/spraying ......... sitting on the ground grey trim was scratched and dull black trim was dull bullbar was scratched,small rust-missing paint etc trim didn't sit well due to missing clips etc

Right here ====> http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/cummins/general/2-cycle-oil/ratio/ratio.htm So 30 gallons = 30 ounces --- Update to the previous post... I hear you - you wanna talk about a learning curve - I have spent $10k since getting my truck about year ago. This site and those problems helped me learn ALOT. Its a bitter pill though - i fully get that - sorry man - took me a long time to deal with it. Only side q - and this is for someone else as I don't know - he's also got those other codes around fuel sensor/speed sensor - does he have an electrical issue here as well ??? I don't remember p0216 being accompanied byu the fuel/speed sensor codes ??

Yeah - he's probably being cautious - which is a good thing.Generally you will only break shafts (from what I have read as I havn't broken one) from *Boosted Launches*Hard TC lockups So if your not racing - and abusing it - I would think on a double TC and new clutch packs as long as you keep an eye on temps you should be good to around 400HP. Thats harder than it seems - most people think they have 400 don't. egme Stock 230+20HP for BHAF/2stroke/bigger exhuast etc (debateable again lets just go with it) +120HP for level 5 edge juice+10-20HP for injectors - lets say 20 So with a top chip and small injectors and mods I am at ~390 HP ....... but minus 15% in driveline and other inifficiencies.Probably around 330 HP. - So any chip would be god - just monitor your tranny temps and EGT's I really like the edge products. I hear good things about the adrenaline - and it has more power ........ but I had problems with the lower end products - zxt+ or whatever - and 180HP would start to concern me on tranny/boost/egt, head studs/ turbo etc - if I spent another $3-$4k [not going to happen] then an adrenaline with bigger injectors/turbo would be a greate way to get 500+HP

Well didn't get a chance to spray off the bugsbut here are some pics SO repainted gray trim to blackPainted gloss bullbar to matt blackcleaned the lenses etcI ended up using carriage bolts in a studded style as per pic.Looks 100x better than before - pics don't do it full justiceShows the grapy trimp sprayed black, clear lights and the matt black bullbarShows the carriage bolts - gave a studded look - painted - and very strong - spent $15 on glue and pretend clips and 4 hours wasted - this worked and looked better in like 20 mins for $4. The backside of the carriage bolt showing washer and nut to tighten/lock down.

hmm - the other guys here will be able to help you more on this one .... but I'll give you my thoughts after playing around, and speaking with the three guys I am thinking of who had different but similar ideas.3 main places to measure tranny temp - testport on passenger side, pan , and hot line.I measure in test port and hot side. I am going to move that to pan and hotline. Pan will show me whats going into tranny and hotline will show me the hottest fluid is getting after TC when not locked up.Tranny cools in various ways.1) tc locked up. Like over 45 mph.2) Front OE cooler when moving - airflow.3) Deeper PAN to hold more oil - doens't heat as much4) A secondary cooler like mine.Anyway - I kinda took ideas from different guys. I don't think there was a true consensus - and each made good argument. ATF starts to degrade after 220 - which you will see in the hotline with lots of start/stop and no lockup, but its in the tranny thats most important below 220. So, as long as you have a good way to monitor temps - just like anything else - and you can keep the tranny temps under 220 in the tranny - then should be good.I think best way is an auxlliary cooler - so you get cooling when you are not moving (no airflow) - thats why I did it - and same price as deep pan. Finally - the check valve - I have heard on CF of guys removing it. I dunno - I think unless you KNOW its causing a problem why touch it. It could create other issues. The heat exchanger - if your not in a cold climate I could see why this might be worth taking out - but its good for people who live in Colorado for example (isn;t that where you a from? ) so heat can exchange into fluid to bring to operating temps quicker.So - I would probably leave that alone unless you lived in TX or something. And just look at an AUX cooler , some good guages and if you really needed to - a deep pan.my

right here http://www.summitracing.com/parts/DER-15960/ or if you ask jacob - basically same price - no shipping from 'dunno' But same thing.

Yeah My stock + BHAF I would get 17 on highway crusing, around 15 around town, around 10-12 towing 9000lbs. That was wiith no VB/TC or chip. Added chip and closer to 18.5 on highway. 16 around town. Not sure towing. Now have TC/VB and edge and RV275's. Only have one measurement and that was 20MPG on 300 mile trip. Will have to see on towing. Unsure how much due to injectors and how much due to chip. --- Update to the previous post... -- p.s - what did you find was best bang for buck for lower EGT's. I am about to put j-hook on my stock HY. Any other cheap mods to increase the compression and flange output - no way I can spend another $800-$1000 just for EGT.

:nadkick:OMG - thats brilliant - sorry for hijack thread

Mike - I thanked you and not ISX (as you had pics info) but also 1.327 is ISX's "thanks" ratio 1.21 is yours Haha - ok bored and felt like being the jackass ............................. but your gonna have to watch your back - one day you will gon break and isx will change the FQN to moparISXmen.com *jokes*

you doing this JL ?? OR shop ?? or not at all ?? Pics would be AWESOME!!! I had heard that better than a compression test was measuring the blow by a "xxxxxxx" forget the name ...... basically a tube of water that you measure the displacement of water at various RPM (connectied to you puke overflow line). ISX posted on one of my threads about it ....... but search funciton here seems broke lately - MI=ike >?? --- Update to the previous post... This is it http://forum.mopar1973man.com/showthread.php/2001-high-oil-pressure at bottom