thebullet83

i was looking for someplace other that the a-post and the steering column when i dreamed up this setup.

and make sure you put the zerk facing the right way. i put one in wrong on my truck, man what a pain!:banghead:

least that over with for a couple of days, right?

first time it's done it in that order though. always idled up and then 3 cyl. this time it skipped right over the idle up portion. i wasn't worried about it. i just hate to load up the engine that cold that quick.

i have my block warmer on a timer. When it's really cold, go out and trip it back on. but i had to leave in an emergency, and it was -18.What happened was it cranked hard, (no big surprise there) and as soon as oil pressure came up, it kicked to 3 cyl idle. it skipped right over the 2 min normal idle and the 20-30 seconds of high idle. i hit the brake to stop it and it ran rough until the normal program kicked it back in.just thought i'd share that, because i didn't know it would do it that way.

the rotor is seperate from the hub, it's just a real chore to change rotors.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Oil-filter-Spinner-II-96-SE-Centrifuge-Bio-Diesel-_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem4cf2f333b8QQitemZ330493539256QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories http://cgi.ebay.com/60-GPH-CENTRIFUGE-WVO-OIL-and-BIODIESEL-/190464358581?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item2c588f78b5 i guess prices have gone up since i looked! but that second is speced out the same as a spinner II. there's also the dieselcraft spinner also and that one is 499. so there are still cheaper alternatives out there.

not to plug anybody, but i've seen the spinner ii on ebay for 150 or so, now it wasn't the kit, but the little hose and fittings won't even cum close to 675. and funny also, i've thought about this for about a year or so now, you just refreshed my memory.

here's a link: http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?lang=en&site=US&WT.z_homepage_link=hp_go_button&KeyWords=m2044b2b1w01

if i can, it would be great, even if there were some caveats. i really am sold on the single switch, and without relays would take the cake! you know? simple and sweet, an improvement on the oringal. the perfect place for one switch in my truck that would be out of the way but still handy is in that garage door opener thing in the overhead console. my truck is too old and primitave to have the overhead display, lol. and i've modded all the other places i've seen people put them (stick, dash). i always told myself i'd take care of this mod before it got cold, but now it's almost too late again, this is my second winter with this beast.

but doesn't the dp3t make relays unessary? one side of the switch is "old load", and the other side is "new load"? since there are three "throws" that takes care of all three situations with the ect and iat, right? i might have to pick up that switch and put the multimeter to it. so fool ect in both cases by crossing to both sides, and fool iat separatelyi've never dealt with such a complex switch. and it isn't the right switch, it will sit in my spare electronics drawer for something else i guess. super fast response, i'm sitting drinkin' and am answerin again already! lol

i picked up a used torque multiplier a while back after i broke my 24" snap on 1/2" breaker bar. had to make a handle for it, but that thing makes short work of nuts! with my 150 ft/lb. torque wrench, i can pull 700ft/lbs on the fastener! and you have to lean into it a bit to get to 150 ft/lbs.

i found a dp3t on-on-on switch looking at a catalog at work (it has been around for years and i never looked at it before). if i'm thinking right, could that switch work safely with a single switch high idle? the pic is small, but it seems to have twelve terminals on it.

might try roll starting to save the starter. my mom and dad's driveway is enough to roll mine to life.

mmm, grimy.

i picked up a set of raybestos rotors and pads when i did it from rockauto.com. not sure where they're made, but i've use them always if i have the choice.

i put on a set from dlux fab. great guy to ask questions of, went on pretty simply too. i've had them on since spring. i like the 2 low feature now (i know i could have got that 2 low kit) but this acomplished more. if i had to do it again, i would go to a salvage yard. it looks like all he did was modify ford spindles, but i didn't look into more than that.

i had a standard cab and had the back window open. had my arm outside of it with my thumb kind of between bed and cab and got scared crapless when it flexed! didn't pinch it, but holy cow! was close!

i think that one you found on amazon is for a 12v. at least by the threads on the one end. i might be wrong though.

concrete is best. jack stands sink into asphalt! i've learned the hard way when my camaro fell off one hot summer day. the floor jack sunk in when i jacked up the dodge, but i put plywood under the stands nowadays. and good luck with the reseal job. like i said before, i wouldn't do the driver's side if i didn't need too. that is the more difficult side to do.

if you had a vacuum brake bleeder, you could pull you own vacuum on the CAD shifter to see if it moves. i use mine for more than bleeding brakes! i filled my front pumpkin up with it the other day because someone gave me oil that was in a one gallon jug.

since it's the passenger side, you can do only that side, no need to take the carrier out. that side is the easy side. I wouldn't personally change the other side if i didn't half to. mine was leaking on the driver's side. no leak out of the tube seals now, but i can't get the CAD unit to stop seaping! I'm gonna get around to making a special washer to span the 2 bottom bolts to stiffen that flange.

it's been almost a year since i removed mine, so i'm working from memory here:OE had the side marker light separate from the headlamp, that came off simply enough with the screws you could see, plus the pull stud. the head lamps had a bolt somewhere (don't exactly remember), and you remove that one, (it was fairly easy). then there's the one you can't get to without removing everthing--forget that one (it's and engineer's trick). that one is far under the battery tray. make sure the headlamp wiggles right now, if it does and it's only held in by the on spot far, far under the battery tray (driver's side), just pull it straight out towards the front of the truck. it is just a pull stud thingy, much like door panel retainers, only more durable. good luck ps. i'm fairly lit writing this, soooo.... good luck again.

i hope it's okay to paste this here, here is what he wrote: Sorry guys. I've been getting buried with questions about it. The short story is it utilizes three DPDT relays and a DPDT Center Off switch in the cab. The switch just energizes different relays depending on the position. The center off releases all the relays so it can read the sensors instead of the resistors. It also fails to the off position so if something does go wrong, the truck operates in stock form. Also dosen't keep the relays energized while the truck is off to eliminate current drain, and wear on the relays. I promise I will get a formal drawing completed. I can start high idle or 3cyl high idle at any time. I can start the truck in stock form and flip the switch and it will go to high ilde or 3cyl high idle. I can do this as many times as I want. With my turbo timer on my Edge set to 300 I can also use it as a secure idle method when going into a store or something. Set the high idle let it get going and it will keep the EGT's above 300. I can pull the key and walk away. If somebody gets in and hits the brake or accelerator the truck dies.

i heard of a single switch high idle from some else. he's been slow to post a diagram, but i did gleen that he uses 3 dpdt relays, and a dpdt switch. i've been thinking about how it would work off and on, to try and figure it out, but if someone has any ideas, just hop on in. thanks guys