notlimah

This is what the bracket looks like that holds the storage bin in. It's welded to the seat bracket, so you'd have to removed the bin (by the two screws inside the storage area) and then fab up another bracket or use another way of securing it down.

It looks so cute! Hahah

Awesome news man! Transmission stuff is the one thing I dare not mess with! Maybe your write up with give me the confidence I need!

So has anyone added these storage boxes or have all come that way from factory/previous etc?

Well my 02 didn't come with it. Obviously the room is there, just don't have the actually bin.

Well I search around the interwebs and looks like no one offers an after make underwear storage. Actually, du-ha states it makes one that fits 02-08 or something like that but that doesn't make sense given the generation changes. The other option is the OEM one, which seem nearly impossible to find. Well the 02 doesn't have the under seat storage but luckily, the 99 does. I briefly tried swapping but it seems like I'll have to swap the entire rear seat because the bracket for the storage bin is welded to the seat frame. Has anyone swapped one or added an OEM? I suppose fabbing up some brackets isn't completely out of the picture either.

I drive like a grandpa man hahah I'll shoot you a pm!

Awesome this is exactly what I was looking to hear! As far as smarty on the stock trans... I know I'm asking for trouble so like I said, IF I ran the smarty on the stock trans, it would be a like the lowest settings possible. The main reason I was asking is if I see one for sale on CF or craigslist would it even be worth getting with an auto, even if I did have a built trans? @TFaoro I might have to take you up on that offer! Only question is, is it even possible to put the smarty on useable settings for a stock trans?!?

Well like the title states, I'm curious on your guys opinion on running a smarty with an auto trans? Obviously until I get my trans built, it'd be run on the lowest of settings or off. To me the smarty isn't just for the tune ability but also to be able to help others clear codes, set high idle and things like that. Only concern was I've heard it can be pretty smokey on autos and I'm not trying to drive around a smoke machine as my DD!

What check valve are you referring too?

Ah ok. On my setup, the only stock lines that are still being used are going to be the stock return line from the VP. If AD didn't have the QA 'issues' as of late I probably would've just gone with them since they seem to do this process on their system. I'm basically trying to merge the AD fuel module setup with the FASS setup. Either way I think I got the kinks worked out from my screw ups and things should work out. I just need to try and clean my tank out as best as possible and then everything's going back on the truck.

So it runs an adapter to take your return line from your lift pump to go into the old OEM supply line? I assume you just ran your VP return line through the OEM one as well correct?

I'm going through a similar process right now. I've been trying to keep track of everything as close as possible in my thread HERE.

haha nice!

@dripley Yea if I were just adding the one pickup, easy peasey! But squeezing two in there is tough! The only thing that made me choose this route as opposed to just cutting the filler tube and running the return line there was to hopefully avoid any fuel pickup issues with sloshing and what not when lower on fuel. I know it might seem marginal to some, but talking with Eric he mentioned it was a possibility and I figured if I'm going through all trouble I might as well try and do what I can to avoid any potential issues.

Dude, it was the closest I've ever felt to being Macgyver in my life hahah It was like those little plastic tabs were on the verge of breaking the whole time! Ah ok, didn't realize that was what they were called. That's my back up plan! This would've been a cake install had it been just the drawstraw5. It got complicated when trying to fit in the 1/2in return line as well. Working on a follow up post now. Alright well another update... So here's what the 'finished' hole fix ended up looking like Over all it's not too terrible. Should hold up pretty well since it was mainly there to give the rubber gasket on the bottom a more thorough seal. Never mind the botch job on the left there! Next up are the washers underneath. This is the reason that this mod was as difficult as it was. Had I just been installing the drawstraw5 it would've been no problem because room would not have been an issue. Adding the DS5 and the return line made things a little more constrained. You need to keep enough separation so you can slide a socket over the bottom nut to tighten it without hitting the otter nut. But, things are limited to where they can move up top, so, grinding down the washers to fit underneath was a must. Here's the bottom with everything installed And the top This was my next challenge. Tightening down the red (DS5) was easy since you have room to fasten a wrench on to hold it down. But once the first one is in place, there's now no longer any more room to attach a wrench too to get any leverage to tighten down the nut underneath. I ended up having to remove the JIC fitting so I could grab hold of the aluminum fitting. It worked in getting everything tight, but I rolled the very first thread at the 9 o'clock position on the silver piece. I thought I ruined it, but it was slight enough (wrench must've rolled in when tightening) that I was able to thread/unthread the JIC fitting more and more each time and 'work it out' enough to tighten. Applied some locktite 545 and called it good. My last thing I need to do prior is to get the OEM suction port filled up to make sure it's sealed. I'll more then likely get a couple plastic tipped pieces, fill with JB weld and shove them over and call it good. The finished product, minus wiring and zip ties Either way, I'm hoping that learning and making mistakes during this process doesn't produce any leaks. Otherwise it'll be another tank drop and more than likely just shell out the dough for a module from Vulcan done the right way! Next on the agenda is to get in the tank and clean up all the little debris I saw when originally removing the fuel module.

Ahh man, that's a bit of a drive, but once it's transmission time on this truck I'll have to make my way out there! Do you guys have a website?

Seems perfectly normal for electric gauges. If you're really concerned about it, tee in a mechanical gauge to double check.

@Mopar1973Man I'm not familiar with the jeep module?? I knew this way would require a little more then just drilling the tank, but I really just didn't want to drill the tank, even though at this point it probably would've been easier. Talking with Eric at Vulcan and he says they mod these things alllll the time for AirDog so it's really more that it's just unfamiliar to me then actually really being difficult. If worse comes to worse I'll just have to order a new module from Eric and call it good. Either way I'm happy with the route I've gone. TBH, the hardest part yet was removing the freakin in tank lift pump!! @CSM Mine had the in tank lift pump so if yours was different I'd assume you didn't have to deal with that. I might just siphon out all the gas I can and try and get in there to clean out the little bits and pieces, otherwise I'm not too worried about it since the fuel module still has a screen and the fass has filters so it should keep the bad stuff out.

Yea I hear ya, I feel like I never get a break! Hey, where are you located?

***Update*** Started working on the fuel module today. Had quite a few phone calls with Eric I between to help guide me since I didn't want to screw things up! Well that's how it started Ended up like that! I was attempting to meet up with the already existing hole but my bit slid left somehow after I started drilling and I ended up snow coming it! Anyways, the rubber gasket still covers that area (it looks a lot bigger in the pic) but Eric recommended some epoxy just to be safe. So jb weld is in a drying as of now. More to come tomorrow!

Look at the wiki page for the engine. The 215hp rated engines were the 98-00 trucks with autos. Manuals were always the higher hp trucks. In 01-02 the SO/HO came about where manual and auto had the same hp unless one was a SO/HO either way your good

I need to get a Timbo

It's really an opinionated question. Some say never let the truck idle cold because it will cause damage, and to only let it idle when it's warm out or the engines already up to temp. Others say it's no big deal. Personally, if it's really cold out, will let the truck warm up with high idle assistance for 5-10 minutes, then be on my way. Any other time I've just started, sat for 30seconds or so and I'm off! 9 times outta 10 I'll leave the truck running while I pop into a store or what not. It really boils down to what your comfortable doing. There's plenty of evidence to get behind either argument so pick a side and

I've had no problem using my phone and that site. It's real convenient when trying to post photos into threads that I took on my phone. No more emailing or uploading to another site just to be able to post from a computer!