notlimah

Ah ok, so there's really not HX35 upgrade wheel, your just putting in the HX40 wheel. Makes sense, but you know how most of the CF posts go, a lot of things get put out but it doesn't always add up! I think I'd eventually like to go the same route as you with the 62 if/when I ever upgrade to a bigger turbo.

That's impressive!

Ok that was mainly my biggest question. If I can literally unbolt the entire thing from both trucks and swap it, then easy peasy. I'll look up those part numbers for the gaskets to make sure I get the right one. What's defined as 'abnormal shaft play?' I'm typically a if it aint broke don't fix it mentality but I figure for 50 bucks I might as well. I thought about the boost elbow after I posted, will definitely pick one up as well. I'll have to talk to you more about the polish job, and I'm still at work but the Smarty should be waiting in the mail box when I get home! **EDIT** I was doing some searching on CF and a lot of people were saying that upgrading to the HX40 wheels were a good idea to flow more air, but I wasn't sure if that required machining the housing at all. Is there a straight drop in wheel that will work better then the stock HX?

Ok so there's no compressor in these turbos? Or it's just not called a compressor housing? Either way I'll be taking off the forward most part that connects to the intake (obviously) and the rear section that's connected to the exhaust manifold and exhaust down pipe right? This goes to show I'm way more of a visual learner haha I can remember all the parts but not what they're called

So I've come to my senses a bit thanks to @TFaoro and have decided that I need to cannibalize my fleet and throw the HX that's in my 99 into the 02 since that's the truck that's staying for the long haul. Now, with that being said, I do have some questions. - Do I take out the entire thing?! (turbine & compressor housings n such?) - I figure I should get a rebuild kit for the HX since I know it's never been done, anything else besides the basic kit DAP sells? - Anything else I should look at changing or upgrading while I have it apart? - Tyler I know you got yours all nice and polished when you did your rebuild, where/how did you do that?

If you're like me and forget to turn the switch to off before you start every morning it may throw a code (forget what number) that basically says it's not seeing any temp difference in you IAT temps but from my experience it didn't effect anything and it also went away by just starting the truck making sure the switch is off.

I got marine grease from walmart and that's what I'll use til it's run out and then I'll probably got back for more!

Mike when you say at highway speeds you talkin 4th gear locked? I've never been able to do that without unlocking the TC.

Yea I know he's got at least a couple 10+ ft ones and a few smaller ones. I just have no clue how to even use em so I steer clear!

My dads got more lathes then he knows what to do with. Wish I lived closer so he could show me how to run them since they're completely foreign to me

This will definitely be worth keeping an eye on that's for sure

Ah ok, that'll be something to keep in mind if I ever get a leak. If I can find those fitting I may just swap it over next chance I get.

Does where to tapped in to get your boost pressure matter in this at all? Mike I noticed you tap into the port right by the fuel filter, any advantage to that over mounting up top?

I imagine you got that leak under control after all that! I had a leak from the 3rd brake light, it would get my rear seat wet. I just used some clear rtv and leak was gone. Glad to hear California getting rain, especially up north! Last time through there those lakes and resiviours needed some help!

Thanks for the input guys. I said he's a friend but he was at the neighbors and saw my two second gens out front of my house and so we started talking. He seemed to be one of those guys that didn't want to consider someone else's input. He kept saying his VP has been on the way out for years, constantly throwing that code. Said the fuel pressure drop was because the VP has a diaphragm that goes bad so that's why he was getting his fuel pressure drops. He asked me what EGTs I see when towing. When I told him I stay under 12k he chuckled and said ohh your not even really towing then because I see 14k all the time! At that point I just nodded my head and smiled. He clearly has a different stance on these trucks then I do.

That's good news! Now where can you find new stock cloth?!

I think he said he was getting 216 then he'd put in the methane to 'clean things out' on the longer trips and the code would go away.

Asking for a friend... Was talking with and he said he's currently running an edge chip on 5x5, 4in exhaust, K&N intake and an Airdog with no filters and that's it. He did mention he has an inline filter or some sort but didn't really catch it. Has a NV5600, truck has 250k and still running on stock VP44. He's seeing fuel pressure from 20 at idle down to 9 while under load and heavy throttle. He said he would get codes here and there that were VP related but he'd run a bottle of methane through the tank and then the codes could clear and truck would run fine. Not sure how old the airdog is but he seems to think that he's seeing those fuel pressure numbers due to the VP being on it's last leg. I seem to think it's the lift pump is the reason he's seeing those number, but also sounds like he needs a new VP as well. What do you guys think?

CCW = concealed carry weapon Not sure I understand the post though! How is it going away?

Is the sudden shift you mention from 2nd @ 55mph and suddenly to 3rd or 4th just it locking the TC in 3rd? Mine will do the same thing, although even with 315 tires I'm seeing 2000rpm and 50ish mph in 3rd with no lock up. Then 3rd will lock until around 60 then shift to 4th then 'OD'

Just to keep you guys in the loop... Looks like its the gauge. I tapped it before when it initially happened to check to see if it just got hung up on something but apparently I didn't hit it hard enough. I did it again this morning and tapped it right up to the 17-18psi it will typically sit at for a cold start up idle. Going to call Eric and see if the return would go through him or ISSPRO. Thanks for all the tips though guys! I'll keep those in my back pocket for future troubleshooting.

Filters should be good. Made sure they were full when bleeding the system a couple weeks ago. air leak suction side will have to wait until I get more hose, but possible. regulator spring is on the sending side of the FASS right? I'd have to check that.

Alright I got a video of what it was doing... BEFORE AFTER Keep in mind the BEFORE is a cold start up, but still shows the difference in gauge behavior. Any ideas guys?

No, not stuck at 14 when off. I tried opening the needle valve like at least a good 1/2 - 3/4 turn from what it was previously at and nothing changed on the gauge. I meant stuck like it doesn't move when driving and it seems to stop abruptly at 14psi when it's building pressure on start up

That sucks, how you know you broke one?! Ive heard good things about synergy's ball joints and they seem reasonably priced compared to other big names.