notlimah

What could you use that would plug the hole and stand up to those temps and heat cycles? Just curious because I've thought of worse case scenarios where drilling and tapping this goes wrong, what would be the best way to fix it. Only thing I could come up with was a whole new manifold, at least that's what I'd tell the wife!

That's exactly what I thought. If it was air in the system I have no clue what could be causing that much air to leak into the system and still let it run.

Yea that don't sound too good. Sounds like could be a bad injector or maybe the cam shaft sensor is bad. I really don't have any first hand experience with this but seems like it's something in the injection or timing aspect of it.

Ya know looking back at those pics it looks like you can see where the male and female joined together and mightve caused the flat spot. Still doesn't add up as to why or how that would even happen. BTW.... Nice crocs!!

Yea I'm as stumped as you man. I've done this same exact install (+\- a few pieces) and I think I may of had one random leak throughout the system. On both installs the connection at the VP did weep a bit but went away with a quick snugging up. I never had to go through to hassle you are so I feel for ya! Not sure why this is turning out to be such a beast! Its too bad your out in NY or I'd come by and try and help! Sometimes there's only so much you can do over the web ya know?!

Yea it took some 'persuasion' that's for sure.

Hmm definitely interesting. The only knowledge of JIC fittings I have are from the fuel systems on these trucks. I'd be interested to hear if these are meant to be a one time use application? If the steel (these are steel right?!) would be better vs brass? Is it even possible to bend or put some sort of impression into a JIC fitting by too much force or if it was off center a bit?

You're talking about the filter collapsing around where it attaches to the intake tube right? I used some black pvc piping in mine to keep it more rigid, but I also was using an amsoil filter so slightly different, and might be a little less supportive then the true BHAF.

Definitely looks like you had a bad jic there. Either came like that or somehow you have the strength of Thor and smashed it down!! But seriously, like you said, if it were off as much as you stated that would definitely effect its ability to deal properly. Yours almost looks scored or just a small casting defect. Here's mine for comparison. Either way I'd be interested to hear what Eric has to say about brass jic fitting in place of the steel.

Yup, YouTube and share!

Not on the JIC side but the thread only side.

If I'm understanding you correctly, it sounds like your trans is going from 3rd to 4th then back to 3rd pretty quickly? Mine will do the same if I hover around a certain speed. It's like it's just not quite fast enough for 4th but a little faster then it's like in 3rd so the trans doesn't exactly know what gear to pick. With a little more throttle/speed it'll shift to 4th or 4th O/D depending on how much throttle/speed I pickup. Seems normal to to me but I could be wrong or just misunderstood your issue.

Oh boy In for pics!!

Yea those are harder then others to get snugged down and keep from leaking. I think I just put a lot of 545 and tightend it down. I also wasn't running the same exact setup as you so who knows. Are you keeping the tapped 90* at the vp just for testing pressures?

So what fittings are leaking then? I think I was under the impression it was leaking from multiple different spots. So that's good I was wrong! Haha I don't thinkin ever waited the 24 hours for the 545 to dry. Don't have the patience! I hope you get it fixed!

So is idling below 800-850 a bad thing just because of the lower numbers or just because it indicates something else is worn or broke?

Isspro's customer service is stellar!

I can tell you that when I was tightening down the bolt at the VP I had to get it uncomfortably tight a couple times. But mainly what I would do is leave it somewhat loose (like loose enough where it would spit fuel but enough to where I knew it'd leak) and start the truck then just tighten until it's not leaking anymore and then another little snug turn just to make sure and call it good. What's hard is telling you how tight since everyone's idea of tight will be different. Are you running an isolator? You do have a lot of stuff going on underneath the filter. Maybe you should try re-plumbing all that. I'll run out and take a picture of my setup but obviously the less moving pieces the better. Mine current setup is literally a push lock T -> needle vavle -> femal connector -> gauge Here's a link to my setup on my 99 as I had issues with some slight leaks and sporadic fuel pressure.

Wait so it is NOT leaking anymore? If it's not leaking I'd say just leave it. Mine is really close to the top of the power steering cap as well. I just left it, I can still just barely get the cap off so it's not worth it to fool around trying to move the T. You really have to start with the T as counter-clockwise as possible then tighten down.

So what would cause a lower idle then 800-850?

What's the IVS switch mike?

I edited my previous post, hope it works now. You should read through the article, it's fairly in depth.

Here's a link for TIMBO And look through Mikes article on how to calibrate your stock APPS, maybe something got out of whack there. https://mopar1973man.com/cummins/articles.html/24-valve-2nd-generation_50/51_engine/electrical/stock-apps-sensor-voltage-adjustment-r34/ Could also be a TV cable issue but I'd start with your stock voltage and see if it's good.

That's pretty slick. If I ever feel the need to replace my standard ev gauges I'll look that route.

+1 for Vulcan, if anything, Eric will at least be able to point you in the right direction!