notlimah

It'll stick out enough to make you second guess yourself! This helped me. http://www.dieselmanor.com/diy/CMS-G2gauges/CMS-gen2gaugeinstall.asp They even look like they tapped their hole farther then I did and mine had been fine.

Check cummins forum classified for used tuners, they pop up quite often. If you're looking for plug and play and something to help mpg's then the xzt or edge ez are the first things that come to mind.

Yea will do. One things for sure, they're not cheap! He mentioned that they're a couple weeks behind schedule due to a large order they received from a local tractor company they do business with so that might have been why it was hard to get ahold of him earlier. Either way it'll be nice to have some well made cables that I should never have to worry about again!

So I talked with the guy from custom battery cables. I ended up sending him a message on their facebook page and he replied back with this number 602-329-8363. Anyways, I'm going to go ahead and pull the trigger on new battery cables. Figure if I'm going to replace one I might as well replace them all so I can just be done with it.

Thanks for the links! So this ground wire circuit, I have no clue where it's at lol. Following Mikes instructions on that write up, I can figure it out wiring and all up until it comes to wiring in a manual switch. I don't know where that's at.

Well as far as manufacturers go, I'd personally pick between Edge or Quadzilla. You could also go with a smarty too if you wanted. There's a lot of different factors that come into play to get your truck through another 100k. The Quad XZT is a no tap box where as the Quad Adrenaline does have that option. I say option because you don't have to tap the VP even with the adrenaline, but you'd be wasting money on that tuner if you didn't tap it. BTW.. I have a couple close friends that live in Tyler!

Ok so I have an update to this... The squeaks are still there, but it's not as much as it was before. Previously it was every time the brakes were applied, lightly, as soon as more pressure was added to the brakes the squeak would go away. Now it's just occasionally happening, but, I did notice that it will squeak here and there when I'm turning left. I know it's still brakes because I hear the squeak, and apply VERY light braking and it changes the sound or goes away. What could this be?

Are you looking for a tuner with a VP tap or just canbus?

Nice looking rifles there! Wish we could get SBRs up in my area without having to wait forever to get ATFs approval. I keep saying I'm going to get an AR but truck parts keep taking over the funds.

Where do you hook up the negatives? Also... with the reverse lights... How big a wire did you use to run those lights? Where exactly did you tie in the switch to the backup lights for manual operation? Can't figure it out lol

Well it looks like your APPS is having issues (obviously) but doesn't seem like you need to hot wire the VP since you unplugged the APPS and the truck started, that rules out it being a VP problem. Follow Mike's run down of your p0122 code in the following... You don't need to worry about the 1693 code, it's a 'companion code' meaning that you have another code from a different computer, in your case the 0122 code. If you still want to do it just to try another form of troubleshooting here's the LINK to blue chips procedures on hot wiring the VP44, although I don't think this is really necessary for you to do at this point.

Found this link for anyone who's interested. http://www.ebay.com/bhp/dodge-ram-door-panel-clips

I wouldn't use a 90 going into the VP. I'd go with THIS (which I will swap too when doing the above swap) because it seems like it should keep your hose a little further away from the power steering cap plus it's at less of an angle so less resistance. As far as the hose, if your running 1/2in it should hold up fine. If you were worried about it putting to much strain on the hose or sagging/moving just zip tie it down. I wouldn't drop down to 3/8 just to run this setup though. Last time I talked to Eric we were talking about have a dual ported pushlock T like I linked in my last post. That way it'd serve the same purpose but wouldn't change hose size or anything at any point.

If I were to plumb in a different setup then what I got now (which I'm going to do eventually) I'd do something like this... Push lock T -> Needle Valve -> Schrader T -> fuel pressure gauge -> test gauge setup/plug Obviously you'd have to run something different from the bottom of the fuel filter as far as connector, same goes for the connection to the VP but you'd be able to get rid of the tapped 90s on both ends.

Hey guys, I'm not 100% sure if the drivers side rear door was replaced (no vin tag) or just put back together after installing a new speaker without replacing these tabs but it's loose, and I want to get new ones so it doesn't rattle. Anyone know the part number or where to get them? The yellow tabs in the pic

I'm in the same boat as you as far as using Chinese made tap. I got the one from Eric when I bought my gauge kit from him and have had no issues with quality or use.

I suppose I could make them myself but I'd rather someone else do it so it's done right. Last thing I want is to fry everything because I missed some minor step trying to get everything put together correctly. I'll have to look for some place locally to see if they offer that kind of service. Maybe I'll call and leave a message and see if I get a call back.

Do you know if custombatterycables.com is still open? I tried calling them and no answer and I sent an email with no reply either.

that would make sense . . . .

I dunno exactly. It just said highway diesel and its here on base so I'm not sure if that's even something they have on there typically. I'll ask my cousin since he's the one that runs that side of the operations.

Who makes the TST box?

I mean I'm not complaining! But man that's a massive improvement! I was running it between catcher 3 & 5 the last tank and I think my average mpg's were like 14 Those are some nice looking numbers there! I'll do my best! Side note... is highway diesel a nono? I was just thinking, I'm pretty sure the pump I filled up at was highway diesel. What's weird though is I typically fill up at the same pump all the time but it said that it was out of fuel, so I literally drove around to the other side of the same pump and it had fuel, but I noticed a sticker that said highway diesel. Not sure if that was true or not, but just a thought.

I currently have a 4in on one truck and stock on the other. I can't deny the stocker is nice just, but there's just something about that sound that I can't get over! With that being said I will probably go with a 5in once it's time to get an exhaust. I don't do very many long trips, and even when I do, I've never really had a problem with drone. Also with bigger tires, my highway speeds are around 14-1600 rpm so typically drone isn't as bad at that range. I also figure if the drone really is that horrible I'll just add a resonator later. On a side note, you guys runnin diamond eyes, did you put an exhaust tip on there or just run the pipe?

Eric has the tap and drill available. That's where I got mine from, although I did end up using a slightly larger drill once tapping the hole became really hard.

It hasn't even hit a 1/4 or 1/8 marker for me to run numbers somewhat accurately yet lol. I guess this is just the first time I noticed the slow fuel drop from full. My other truck was the opposite so that's what seemed odd to me.