notlimah

Well if I ever rebuild this engine I'll definitely put the 12v tappet cover on. I don't off road really at all, but if I do, or have some panic style braking, I'll definitely check my oil levels. Right now what I was mainly concerned about was getting the bottle out from behind my radiator fan to prevent further mess. I can get a better pic of where mine falls down, but I tucked mine back behind a couple things to keep it from swinging into the radiator fan. If you were to just drop it straight down in front of the engine, there's not to many options of where it's going to go.

So I have the steering box brace in the garage waiting to go on the truck cans I ordered up a Luke's link for the track bar. I know it may be a bit of a bandaide fix given my current setup but it should be better then what's currently on it (nothing! Haha) so we'll see how long it last. If it starts becoming a problem I'll put a proper track bar on and call it good at that time.

Yea that's what I figured. The over the top method would sort of 'refill' things correct? The flexible pvc was just a pre cut 24in piece

Yea but you have other things to make your truck go! I'm still stuck with mashin the skinny pedal just to merge! ha!

I'm definitely open to the possibility! here's what I came up with for now It looks like it sits level with the front pumpkin but it's a little higher. I used the original bent hose and used a push fitting coupler and flexible pvc. Still rigid enough to not move but has enough give if something were to hit it.

That sounds like a pain! Even though mine is at 60k, it's long past the warranty. I'd more then likely just do the typical wire tap.

Sounds good! I just got some cheap pvc and one piece of flexible pvc so I can have something for now. I'll wait for your update before I switch to copper!

Yea Mike, don't know if you saw my comment on that article but I think approximate lengths of tube and at least the size would be a helpful addition. I read that article over a few times, but still had those questions. Glad this thread was already up and cleared things up. My truck has the 'upgraded' breather valve so I plan on routing it the same way, just with pvc. What sort of pipe sealant are you guys using? Anything special?

Hey mannnn! Don't you be showing off with your big injectors! Gonna make guys like me self conscious!

If you were taking the pump out, I'm assuming it's probably because it's not good anyways so who cares if you hurt it or not right?! As far as the warranty goes, it sucks you got to shell out that much more just to be covered. Tyler did you just tap your new one and say f the warranty? Or did you wait a year and then tap?

In regards to the stealth cover, thoroughbred diesel says that using that WON'T void you vp44 warranty. That might be worth bringing up the guys over at DAP, maybe they'd honor that as well, or maybe it's just a thoroughbred diesel thing. Anyways, food for thought!

Sorry to revive this thread, but figured it's better then starting a whole new one on the same thing. Looking to get the parts together for this tonight. Is there anything wrong with just doing to 90* bends of pvc, headed straight down in front of the engine, then attaching a bit of hose from there to get it down a little more? I don't really do any 'off roading' other then just dirt roads to go camping or dirt biking and what not, so I shouldn't need to worry about kinking or ripping it off. Plus with a pvc/tubing combo I figured if anything it'd just yank the tube off and the pipe would still be there. Thoughts?!

Where do I find out what my state has to label and what it doesn't in this regard?

Well given that you have the comp it might be worth it to get the one with a warranty that lets you still tap. Then again, it's a whole lot easier spending someone else money!

Post back on how things are going, I'd like to gather as much knowledge as possible before I inevitably have to do this myself one day!

yea, even before the grid heater thing, I had VERY SLIGHT rough starts, at least tougher then the 99 that's got some fuel stuff already done to it. It led me to think it's probably lack of fuel since its running on the in tank lift pump and stock lines. Either way, once I get down below 1/4 of fuel, the trucks getting parked, FASS is going on with 1/2in all around. So I'll see if it's still an issue after that.

Yea I need a BHAF on my 02, it's too quiet!

The BHAF and a straight exhaust will really open things up. Here's a VIDEO of my 99 before and after. I know it's a bit long (wanted to be thorough) so just skip around to hear the good stuff. Oh and welcome to the forums!

Wait, what happened?! I'm lost!

So after work, went out and fired the truck up. WTS light went out quick again. Fired up fine. Popped the hood and listend for any power draw and felt for heat. Couldn't feel or hear anything. I pushed on the black wire on the radiator side and it immediately cycled, my hood light dimmed and I could hear it. I think maybe some water had got stuck in there from my engine bay cleaning a few days back. We'll see if that was really the issue or not.

Alright, I'll check that when I can. I have a high idle switch but it's installed on the 99 and this is in regards to the 02.

So I check at the screw connectors? Or should I check at the sensor?

Yea, I don't want to replace the grid heater, but I may do batteries just so I know they're fresh. I'll check the grids tomorrow morning, its 51* now, and the WTS shut off as soon as the rest of the dash lights did, and it started up no prob, idled and drove no issues. How would I check to make sure the grids are getting electricity?

Yea, wait to start does come on. I'll have to pay more attention to see how long it comes on for. Batteries were replaced in '12 I think? That's when the sticker on them say they were born at least. Connections seem to be ok, I just took a wire brush to them, but they weren't really THAT bad, just typical small amounts of build up. May just replace them anyways, any recommendations on battery brands?

So on initial start ups, I've noticed that there tends to be some white smoke. Only one time has it been to the point where I was like man, that's a good amount haha. Other then that, its just a little bit, not even really noticeable in my mirror. Anyways, every time I start there always seems to be a slight hiccup at start (I'm thinking this may have to do with the stock intank lift pump so I'll update once the fass is on) but she idles out smoothly after a second or so. It was around 48* this morning. I have a typical wait to start time, fire her up, and again, have a little white smoke. I then waited to see if my grid heater would kick in with the voltage drop and nothing happened. Eventually it looked like it tried to cycle the grids but the voltage barely dropped to the 14 mark. Do I have a bad sensor? Need new heater block? The truck seemed to have a VERY slight hiccup at idle, barely even noticeable, but I was thinking it may have been from the lack of grid heater? Keep in mind, the one time I've started the truck after being plugged, none of these symptoms were apparent.