notlimah

Alright well you guys made me feel a lot better about spraying things down! I'll post some before and after pics.

I have to agree with everyone else here. Isspro are about as good as it gets, and ordering from Eric down at Vulcan is the icing on the cake. I actually just ordered a 3 gauge combo 2 days ago

So there's really nothing to look out for or keep from spraying directly?! I want to get things cleaned up for the exact reasons you guys are saying! Especially want to spray down all the extra crud built up from the crankcase vent. I assume I can spray cleaner and power wash off all my swaybars and steering components as well no problem right?

Thanks for all the input, makes me feel like I can probably tackle this at some point in the future! The heater works, but I definitely don't think it's putting out as much hot air as it could, even when the trucks warm, so maybe this summer will be a good time to dive into a project like that. Meanwhile, my FASS, gauges, drawstraw and steering brace are on the way! More to follow

Looking for recommendations on the easiest/best way to clean up the engine bay of our trucks? I'd like to get things looking as new and shiney as possible but I've never do it before so not sure what all the prep to keep water out of, or anything else that should be done before I start spraying things down. Any good cleaners or degreasers? It'd be really nice to clean up all the mess from the crankcase vent, and then do the vent mod and be done with it for good!

Yea, as of now, I'd prefer to not pull the entire dash. Where are the hoses located under the hood? Maybe I'll just give it a quick flush to make sure everything's fairly clean and unclogged.

Is the heater core under the dash? I did read that flushing it can help but it didn't make sense to me on how to do that based off it's location.

Thanks Dripley, I crawled under there earlier and saw that it's just sitting right there but like Mike said, that back screw's going to be a real SOB to get too. I'm going to try and avoid ripping into the floor foam if I can, just need to find the right tool! ***Update on the truck*** So other then this heater (or lack there of) issue I have, I've just been combing through the truck to make sure all the little details are to my liking. Gave the block heater a try to make sure everything was in working order, crawled under the truck (again!) to check for any 53 block signs or really any casting number, and again, no luck. Plugged in the hypertech tuner that came with the truck because I wanted to make sure that the tuner wasn't on and the tire size was input correctly. I definitely think it was on, because on the way to work I had to use a little more throttle to get up the hill than I normally do. Either way I don't mind it being off, especially with the stock lift pump and trans, I don't want to take any chances. Planning on calling Eric here shortly to get the big things ordered so I can get them on the truck ASAP. I'll keep you guys updated when that happens! Oh almost forgot, pending the weather this weekend, I'm planning on getting out and taking some better pics so standby for those!

An awesome resource here, we're lucky to have it!!

Thanks! I was wondering where it was! Haha

Thanks for the tips. The previous owner said he just took it in because the heater wasn't working and they replaced the serpentine, thermostat and the entire radiator, so I assume everything's good up there. I'll probably order up one of those heater treaters and see if that fixes it. Just need to figure out which module I have since apparently 02 was a cross over year.

So it seems what's happening is from 3rd lock up to 4th its causing a little rpm hesitation or jump, not really sure how to describe it. Probably because I drive the thing like a granny and don't accelerate hard so it's probably just getting confused at certain mph's. This morning I went out to fire up the truck, started fine, had a decent amount of white smoke while she was warming up, but eventually stopped after a bit. Well I always reach in and turn up the defroster and heater to get that started. Yesterday, it worked fine, I was actually surprised at how well and quickly it worked. Today, not so much, even after the engine temp got up a bit it was still blowing luke warm air, definitely not hot. What can I check to see if something wrong? I saw something about a blend door? I'm lost haha

Cool, I didn't think so, just figured I'd throw it out there!

What's with all these base police driving like jackasses?! That neeeevvveeerrr happens

Thanks for the mention of the Timbo APPS, I hadn't heard of him before. I'm definitely going to keep that on hand for later mods.

How does 2-stroke effect lift pump filters say on the FASS or Airdog pumps? Or does it at all?

Ok so if I'm running down the road with overdrive on, as in, O/D is not highlight on my dash, it will lock up in 3rd, accelerate some more then shift to 4th, the lock again? In my 99, it would only lock in 3rd if I had O/D off, then if I turned O/D on, it would unlock, rev up a bit then shift to 4th and lock up again once I gained speed. Not sure if there's a difference in years that's causing it to be different between the two trucks, or the tires or what. Just want to make sure things are working correctly. As far as the 'clunk' it is more of a feel/hear it, doesn't sound like grinding gears or anything.

I'm trying to put the timeline together, but it seems like it you replaced the VP44 and fuel filter and then you ran into this issue? Or was it the other way around? If it was replaced after the truck threw the codes and you primed with no start up, then I'd agree with dripley, may just have too much air in the lines. I crack every line starting at the VP, once it runs fuel with no bubbles, tighten it down, and then do the same with the injectors. Just bump the starter so the lift pump will flood the lines with fuel and get the air out. Mine actually start once I tightened down #4 and it was spitting some fuel out of 1 and 3 so I had to rush to tighten them down, but ran fine after that with no issues. If it was replaced, and was running fine, then threw the codes, I think TFaoro is right on with something being loose.

Alright, that puts my mind at ease a bit as far as shift points. I drove the same route so religiously that even though I drove an auto, I'd have my rpm's and shift points down to a tee. I'll check out a GPS and see if it correlates. Do you think there's anything to worry about or check in regards to the 'clunk' around 45mph? It doesn't feel bad, but it's enough to notice.

I'll look into that. On a separate note. I finally got around to driving around a bit to get used to how things sound and act. Things seem to shift at faster speeds then my 99. Is this because the bigger tires? I'm also getting a sort of a clunk sound around 45mph. Doesn't seem to affect driving forward or stutter the truck at all, but I did hear it twice. Did 02's have different transmissions then 99 or earlier models? The truck seems to lock the torque converter around 35-40mph and then again around 55-60mph. Again, nothing seems alarming or major, but it's different to me so just want to know if I should pursue this further or if this just comes with a leveled, 4x4 and 35in tire type of incident. Keep in mind my 99 is a 2wd, stock trans. Forgot to mention, the truck has had a hypertech on it to fix the speedo with the bigger tires, not sure if the 'tune' is on or not, but I'll double check, maybe that's changing things?

How would a sump with drawstraw work? No turbos yet I was talking about a bhaf and exhaust. At least so I can hear what little whistles I can make now! Driving the 02 compared to my 99 sounds like a Prius! Hahah

Thanks for the input fellas! Where things stand right now, I think I'm going to go with the following 1. FASS 150 Titanium 2. Big line kit (1/2in) 3. Drawstraw or sump (basically whichevers provided with the FASS kit) 4. Isspro FP/EGT/PYRO with pillar mount. There may be a couple other items thrown in just because I've become acustom to certain sounds and whistles (hint hint ) but I'll keep you guys posted either way!

How difficult is it setting up the drawstraw with the tank on the ground? I've heard people run into issues with the tank being slightly 'smaller' if you will, while on the ground and making the drawstraw get as close to the bottom as possible

That might be something to consider for sure. Although, 300+ just for the module which I don't technically need is steering me away a bit. Even with the tank real low, can it be done alone? Or at least a 2 man job? I'll give him a call Monday or Tuesday for sure. On a separate note, I talked with Richard from GDP (I can't believe I got an email reply on a Sunday, during the Super Bowl o_0 now that's customer service!) and he said that they require a sump or draw-straw setup, so that makes it the same as the FASS as far as setup goes. If I have to drill the tank one way or another, is a installing a sump that much harder then drilling for a draw-straw setup? I'm just thinking if I need to drop the tank anyways, may as well get everything done all at once ya know.

So basically, if I go with the fuel module from vulcan, it would eliminate the need to drill a hole in the tank and put a suction kit in it? Obviously it seems either way would require a bed removal or tank drop, but if I can avoid drilling (I know I know, it's probably way easier then I'm making it out to be) I'd prefer that. Plus if it keeps things less cluttered then I'm all for that too! Suspension is a whole different beast. I'll tackle that after my fuel situation is done Thanks! Definitely glad I held out and found a good one! Makes me smile every time I see her in the driveway! As far as the block number, I've scowered the thing, and can't find any numbers. Looked up in the front bottom corner below the VP, nuthin, opposite side of that, nuthin! So I'm hoping I got off with the mexican block! I have read though that a 53 block in an 02 are pretty rare, and most instances of 53 blocks being in 02 trucks have been because of dealership swaps and it just happened that way.