notlimah

Thanks for the insight there John! I think between yours and Nick's experience with the momentary switch I'll go the same route. Lucky for me I've recently had my trans built so I am able to lock the converter in any gear I'd like and have the luxury of locked 3rd-4th and 4th-3rd shifts. Not to sure I'll ever find the need to lock the converter in 2nd (or 1st! ) but it's nice to have the option if needed. John I believe it was your post I read mentioning the foot pedal switch so thanks again for that idea! Did you guys just splice into the wire with a plug or solder a new wire in?

I totally agree with the weight distribution part! @trreed I'm still surprised at how level it sits with that amount of weight on it considering you have 1.5in of lift up front. That's only .5in less then mine and I think I'd be headlights to the sky with that same load! I need smaller tires and to drop the front a bit stat!

Gotcha. I think if anything I'll go with a momentary foot switch to start and go from there. If I don't like it I can always change it up. As far as wiring it up at the PCM, did you just splice into the B11 wire with a connector or did you solder it?

so you'll drag it into second then lock up, then unlock and then shift to D once you've gained speed?

yessir

Yea I hear ya. I guess I'm more thinking about how often I'll be sitting there holding that switch and be like 'man I wish I could just flip this on and be done holding it!'

So I know that the lockup switch is a pretty well discussed topic but I was wondering. For those that have the switch either momentary or constant, do you see any benefit to having the option to use either one? For instance, I was thinking of having a momentary foot peddle switch up by the parking brake and another on/off switch on my console somewhere for times where I would want to keep it on and not have to hold the foot switch down. Good? bad? dumb? pointless? genius?!

I know Eric (Vulcan Performance) says to leave the screen and red rubber piece in place. I left mine in my fuel module when I upgraded to the drawstraw 5 and I've had no issues with 1/4 problems, although I rarely let it get that low anyways. With that being said, I doubt you'll have any issues with the screen being gone. I think plenty of people get rid of it anyways and I think it's one of those things where it adds extra 'filtration' from tank junk without decreasing the overall performance of the fuel module or lift pump. I wouldn't extend the tube any further then was suggested with the screen in place, but that's up to you. You could always call Eric(360-263-6037) as he's a great guy to talk to about these sort of things and will get you headed in the right direction.

If I towed that heavy often I definitely would run all stock.

Sounds more like an alignment issue to me. I've never heard of any 'dodge related' issues causing that sort of wear. Having any sort of lift without an adjustable track bar will create a bit of wonkiness, but I wouldn't think you'd see those wear characteristics just from that. Maybe someone with more experience with this will chime in!

That's Daps SACs more smokey then DFIs VCOs?

Nice to hear. Seems there's been a ton of recent threads on how terrible these heat exchangers are and how they're ticking time bombs to take out your trans

Looks good man. Truck has a nice stance to it even with the trailer loaded! I think I'm ditching my 2in level for a 1in. Good to hear about the brake upgrade, when I start towing more, I'll be looking at this upgrade more seriously.

How's this system holding up for you? I don't have any issues with mine but this is definitely something to keep in mind in the future.

Make sure you make a post about that dripley! I'd be really interested in what you find!

Hahah it's no biggy @CSM there's not much to spoil this show! Not like I'm not going to watch it!!

You're basically in the same boat with gauges are you were with your VP. Get ahold of Vulcan or DAP and they'll get you going with either setup. You could get a mechanical gauge from Vulcan and just plum into the fuel lines (via a big line kit or something similar if you don't already have one) or get a fitting that you can tee into right at the inlet of the VP44 (not recommended due to water hammer). I'd honestly suggest just getting the in cab gauge now as I highly suspect that with the comp/drp combo, you're already running at sub-optimal pressures, but just a hunch. So keep that in mind when it comes to installing the new VP that a better lift pump might be in your near future as well. It definitely sucks getting all these things at once, but once that's done you're set!

You'd more then likely be fine with just a SO pump. Just go with whoever offers the best warranty and has good customer services. Vulcan and DAP are good choices.

Yea, at 1500 miles drain fluid and change filter, adjust bands. Then for me he recommended every 25-30k since I mainly just DD the truck. For people who tow heavy often he recommended once a year.

Pics?

Lookin good! I've been debating doing the same with my stickers!

Yea that's a good one too. I don't think I could pick just one favorite roadkill car.

He did flush out the one cooler line that has to come out (hot side I think) but other then that mine didn't need much of a flush (thankfully)! Jon did test drive it to make sure TV cable adjustment was where he wanted it to be, but I'm sure he could walk you through how you'd want it adjusted to perform the best if you were to just ship your trans. Is there any reason you couldn't drive the truck out there? I went through all the same thought process as you as before I just decided it'll be easier to just take the truck to him.

Spoiler alert!!! hahah I'm assuming that's from the next episode right? Are the roadkill garage episodes only on MTOD? I like the rostun because it's the epitome of roadkill. Rarely works like it should, but when it does, it's glorious!

I think he does do manuals, but not sure. Either way, pull the trans and freight it! Cheaper then driving from where you are! haha