notlimah

That's weird, I got quoted saying what Hammer had mentioned in his post lol Either way, I remember you saying that Vulcan does pop test and flow match.

Oh I didn't get the impression you were defending them, you simply relayed information passed by them. That statement just seemed in bad taste IMO, but to each their own. I'm sure they make a nice injector. I know you've mentioned your DFI sticks before running super clean. How much of that is attributed to your arduino and HE you think?

I have the pump setup exactly how FASS tells you to via the directions. OEM lift pump connects to the new FASS relay and goes back to the FASS pump. I've replaced the washers to the banjo at the back of the head. I have 3 new grommets sitting on my bench waiting to go in. I'm also going to replace the return banjo on the VP just because I have a new one and just want to eliminate that being a possible problem. When you replaced the grommets at the fuel T, did you have to take off the lines to the back of the head and the return line from the VP? Or does it wiggle enough once unscrewed that you can slide on the new grommets?

That may be true. Still seems like it's a jab at other companies that can offer this same service but don't lean on that being their primary means of selling injectors. Does contagious diesel only sell 12v injectors?

Looks nice! Makes me look forward to my trip up to Lynden, WA in August for the antique tractor show! http://www.psatma.com/

Deep down you're both softies!

Yea man that's the beauty of this forum! You don't get yelled at for asking questions that have been asked before! We're all here to help each other out with trucks we enjoy. No point in getting all uppity for asking questions that have been asked before.

That seems like a fairly broad statement for them to make, doesn't it? I'd like to see where/how they can prove that places like Vulcan or DAP aren't flow matching and if they are, are using 'junk' nozzles.

So I've been brain storming over other possible solutions to this problem. One being the FASS creating too much pressure to the VP and that being the problem. Does that problem still exist on newer VP's? The reason I ask is because I just let the truck sit almost 3 days. It fired up after cranking about 6-8 seconds. It had a small stumble/almost start then it cranked over and ran smooth as ever. It made me wonder though, if it were a leak, sitting for that long, I feel like I would've had more trouble starting it then I would after letting sit for a day or so. Even after a day it still cranks about the same time as it did this morning (after sitting almost 3) which makes me feel like maybe it's not a leak after all. If it were leaking then it would make the starting harder the longer it sat right? I took a video of the start this morning and I'll do the same tomorrow morning to be able to compare the two and then I'll post it for you guys to critique. Anyone have any other thoughts on this??

So really there's not a huge need to add extra filtration on the FASS systems?

I currently don't have my OEM filter hooked up and am just running the filters on the FASS 150 system. I'd like to throw an inline filter in between the tank and the FASS and then another in between the FASS and the VP, any suggestions?

Thanks for that @CTcummins24V visually I think mine looks fairly similar in spacing but we'll see once I attempt to mount it. @leathermaneod not sure on those numbers off the top of my head. I tried google and it gives a lot of different answers.

So just so I can understand the bio diesel pro/con. The higher the % the better for our trucks? Also the higher the % the less critical it is to run 2cycle in tanks?

Ok so was just doing some more research on this. I broke it down by our bolt pattern and it looks like the only two offsets available for this wheel that'll fit on our truck is either an offset of -6 or 12 with backspacing at 4.25in or 5in respectfully. I think either way with at least 4in of backspacing I should be fine.

I still have a hard time relating offset to back spacing and I'm not 100% sure what the offset of these wheels are as its not listed on their website. It does say the offset is either going to be -6 or 12. I read that wrong earlier. I thought the back spacing was -6, but it's not. The tires do stick out a good 3-4 inches outside of the wheel well so I imagine the offset/back spacing is enough to fit the kit. I also talked to a local 4x4 shop that all run 2nd gens as well and they seem to think I'll be fine with the wheels I have. I guess we'll see when I actually put the kit on.

I've had this same debate in my head for a while now. My 02 is now my daily and it's stock exhaust. Coming from my 99 with a 4in straight back, I miss the noise but anything outside of putting around town is rough. I think my next exhaust will be with muffler for long trips and I'll put it in a place I can easily swap out a straight pipe for the around town, short trips by myself fun!

From the looks of them, I'm not sure how they'd be replaced individually as they seem sealed. I doubt replacing the whole tie rod is that expensive. You might be able to grind off the sealed looking end or just whack the threaded end to knock it out of the tie rod, but this is all speculation. @CTcummins24V What back spacing does your 16's have?

@leathermaneod check this thread out I may have been wrong about the stock wheels being a no go on this kit. I only made it through the first few pages but it seems like some said it worked for them, others it didn't. Figured it'd be worth a read. Anyways, got my kit in today so I opened up the box to see how it looked and to see if I could notice any stand out issues. All looks good. I'm slightly worried about them fitting on my 16's as I'm not 100% sure on the back spacing. They stick out a decent amount and from I can tell they have a -6 back spacing so I guess I'll find out when I dive in. Does anyone know if -6 back spacing would be enough? This is how much room I have right now.

Good to hear! I I thought I missed seeing yours post as of late!

Is your fuel tank full? When you modded your fuel module did the kit replace the in tank lift pump or did you just add a drawstraw? The screens at the very bottom of the fuel module stay in, but did you remove them and clean them before reinstall? Was the drawstraw installed to low or not have an angle or something to keep it from being suctioned to the bottom?

The reason you need a new track bar after leveling is to re-center the axle The reason you'd use Luke's Links is because your TRE are shot I have DORs track bar and it's an awesome bar. If you can deal with the price and possible wait times then I say get it. As far as install goes, some are 'bolt on' kits, but won't offer the same level of strength as the drilled type. Install really isn't too difficult but two people make it easier for sure. Drilling through the cross member is really the most difficult part.

Alright so still have longer crank times. Truck sat probably 18 hours and still had a tough time like before. I'll be going through and replacing all 3 grommets at the T and hopefully that will solve the problem. Could this issue be caused by too much fuel being supplied to the VP while cranking? I can't remember if that actually affects starting or not.

Yup yup! Brand of level kits are really a take your pick sort of thing. Type of material is a take your pick sort of thing. The only absolute with a leveling kit IMO is what's already been stated. An adjustable track bar. For you're going to do it, do it right and avoid having bigger issues later on down the road.

The main thing is that you and your family made it out unscathed. Commendable of you to go through the efforts you did, and if I were you I'd be able to sleep easy at night knowing yiu did everything you could. Hope the truck has a speedy repair as well!

Yea I have three new ones I got from Geno's (I think they just started stocking them) but once I saw that that grommet was in good condition I figured I'd just try tightening it down a bit more to see if it just wasn't fully tight. I'll find out soon if that was it or if I'm going back in to replace all 3.