sooxies

WD40 solved the squeak on my clutch pedal and fortunately it has not come back. It was a very very annoying sound to hear while driving. If it comes back I now know where to starting looking!

Only tips I was ever told on coax is to only use as much as you need (i.e. don't order too much length) and make a nice circular coil with excess. It's not the end of the world if you have too much coax...just coil it up nicely. I had a lot extra with my twin Wilson setup. Grounding the mounts? I never grounded mine but my two mounts were inside the bed of the pickup (this was a 97 Chevy 1500). Am I correct in saying that the bed would have been grounded out with grounding straps to the frame? If your SWR readings are very high and/or cannot tune the antenna then you need to ground the mount. I learned most of my knowledge through these guys (lots of phone calls/emails back in the day). Haven't been on their site for a while....now they have a nice blog for learning. https://www.rightchannelradios.com/blogs/learning-center

You go to a remote location where there will be no interference. If it's going on a vehicle it's best to leave the vehicle running to simulate optimal conditions (what I was taught). I would go out to farmland a couple miles down the road. You switch between channel 1 and 40 and depending what your readings are...shorten/lengthen the antenna in small increments. I have a cheat sheet somewhere with my tuning instructions. That Predator is a beast of an antenna. It would reach out just as far as when I ran a 102" with a potbelly spring. I just couldn't stand the darn length of the 102 so I tried the Predator and loved it. They have different shaft lengths and coil setups depending on your needs. I've also have/tried twin Wilson 5000's (center loads) and just a trusty old Firestick. The CB is for sure a nice tool to have. I know Geno's Garage sells a mount for our second gens. https://www.genosgarage.com/product/wd-cb1/accessories-interior

SWR meter is a must for optimal CB performance (I think I payed $20 for mine 7 years ago). Improperly tuned antennas can damage radios as well. You should run a no-ground plane setup if mounting it on an RV. I've been out of the CB world for a little while but I still have all of my antennas, radios, SWR meter, coax, and etc. I ran a Predator 10-K on my last setup (not my photo but same antenna seen here). I was always taught that center loaded antennas should have the coil above the cab; in this case on a pickup truck. Trailers create huge dead spots which is why you see big rigs with two antennas. Same thing would apply to making sure the coil of a center loaded antenna is clearing the cab on a pickup. It's a pain to tune a two antenna setup but if you do it right it pays off for ultimate CB range/performance.

Any 4" kit should suit your needs. Pipe is pipe. I got my aFe kit for $300. Another $100 for my resonator and $30 in spray paint. You have a quad cab/long bed so you should not have to cut any pipe during your install (I didn't have to for mine). Things to consider... Stainless or aluminized? FTE Resonator or muffler or both (lots of options)? Spray paint exhaust? (I did mine with high heat paint and it turned out nice...just to prevent rust)

If I can recall to my days of price checking for exhaust systems I believe Diamond Eye made the cheapest 4" kit for our trucks (with or without muffler). The kit I got was an aFe brand. I opted for that because it uses accuseal clamps (when possible) in certain areas of the exhaust so it would be easy to change something out if necessary. I did not bother to get a 409 or 304 stainless system because I rattle canned mine with Rustoleum 2000˚ high heat paint/primer. Turned out really nice and I'm certain I will not have any rust issues. Add a little car polish on the last section of the exhaust and she shines up real nice. Pictures are iffy...but it's all I have at the moment (out of town). A lot people rave about http://www.rollinsmokediesel.com/ If you do order a kit from wherever, make sure that no pipe sections are bent at their ends and all hardware is accounted for. Line everything up off of the truck and see if everything connects easily.

Can't go wrong with Interstates. My truck had 65's when I bought it. They did not clamp very well but worked (b.b. was not modified). I changed them out to Odyssey group 34's. Long story short, I had one laying around from my 2010 JKUR that I sold (only had three months of use on it then sat on a float charger). The factory battery clamps work just fine with the 34's but if my Odyssey's were maybe another 1/8" wider then it would be glove-like fit. No complaints on running a group 34 sized battery in the second generation.

Likewise! But I am due for a valve adjustment.

I'll get a video of mine up soon. I'll just post it to this thread.

To the best of my recollection it is clay where the house is as with a lot of other parts of the state

The alderman came over today. We're fortunate enough for him to be one of our family friends and he's also on the city council. Turns out this issue would have to be dealt with the developer who sold the land (even though the builder is the one who really at fault). He said our case will be pretty strong against the developer assuming they are still in business. Also stating that a simple letter from my mothers' attorney should be enough to have the issue settled. It could drag on, but one thing will lead to another and the issue will be dealt with. He has run into a handful of drainage issue cases in his 15+ years of being an alderman but he said this was the worst he's ever seen. All in all, he's going to try and do what he can with the city and if not it's onto the developer. Attached is the letter that was sent to the gentleman from the city. It is a public document with public information so I am not going to bother hiding his identity. It is a PDF; two pages. 20161003125856449.pdf

The Little Honkin' Air Filter! I think I maybe the only one running it on this forum? Photos are in the thread. No complaints/no issues. I haven't gotten around to getting the filter minder to work with it just yet. I would be willing to try the BHAF sometime just to say I've used both. I enjoy trying different things.

You won't regret an FTE resonator but cost is always the most important factor (I have their 30"). Mounted right off of the down pipe. Longest I've gone is 6 hours and I have zero complaints from myself or passengers. I have not been outside the vehicle to hear it going down the road but it sounds splendid in the cab. Zipping around town, with the windows down, all you hear is turbo (windows up as well). Cruising speed on the freeway it sounds like a stock exhaust but if you put your foot into it, it sounds great. I find these motors with a full straight pipe just a little too annoying. Then again, people drive like maniacs near me and ruin it for others. Anyways....I'm long overdue to make a video of the exhaust note. If for any reason you're worried about it being too quiet I'd be more than happy to make a video for you.

Thoughts and prayers

Thank you for the story. Also wanted to add that of course when the city was came out to the property they obviously didn't see a drainage issue because it was 85 and sunny out . I want to get these photos sent to the city just to prove that there is in fact a drainage issue caused from the improper grading. It still is frustrating that city/county can't force him to fix the issue and it has to be dealt with civil action. But, that's the way it is. I feel a little bit for him because this is his BUILDERS FAULT not his landscapers (he has some minor things). I wouldn't expect him to know all of the city codes on his newly built house (pretty sure he's the original owner). But he's the only ding-dong whose lawn is graded so high of all the neighboring houses. It's so hard to miss I can't believe he wouldn't say something to the builder when it was completed.

At my mothers house her backyard neighbor's lawn is graded 8 inches too high. It is creating a drainage issue which you can clearly see from the pictures. This has been an issue ever since the (her/our) house was built. A couple months ago, a surveyor from the city was sent out and the grade is in fact 8 inches too high making him in violation. The city cannot force him to do anything about the issue and which essentially leaves my mother to take civil action. He was sent a letter once from the city since they came and surveyed saying that he was in violation (I need to call the city to get a copy of the letter to see what it stated). We really do not have any interest in talking directly to him because he clearly seemed to take the letter as a joke. I say that because he has not confronted us let alone fix the issue. We have also had issues with him dumping yard waste onto the property (separate issue). For some reason he has always had some dislike towards us. Lawyer's aren't cheap without a doubt but it's getting kind of old dealing with the issue. I believe it's time to let the court system do it's job. I'm kind of venting here and I really can't think of any other options? We may have the alderman for the district communicate with him through us. Thanks for reading fellas

I myself would personally stay away from a lifted truck but that is my opinion. Unless you have a need for it or that's the look you want? It's your money in the long run . Every single one that I see driving around people just beat the tar out of them zipping around on the road. I hate to stereotype but lifted truck owners get a bad rap. Most, not all, of them deserve it. To anyone who drives a lifted vehicle on this forum I'm not trying to start an argument or generalize you.

Almost pulled the trigger on a single owner one but it was an automatic and I wanted a standard. Had 98k on it and lived in California all of it's life owned by an elderly man. Oh well...I'm sure whoever has it now is enjoying it as I am enjoying my 98.5 Anyways...my buddy who owned an 07.5 loved it until he had to sell it for his own reasons. Mega Cab...all the creature comforts, deleted, and lots of bolt-on's. He plans on another one when once he's discharged from the Marines. The power they make is pretty impressive. I love the look of the 2006+ once Dodge did the facelift on them. Always remember with every vehicle "the 3 F's" ....Fluids, Filters, and Fuel

I never had any death wobble when I had KO's on my truck...the originals not KO2's. They were 285/75R16 on factory steelies and they did seem to wear fast. Now running a set of 265/70R17 Michelins on 4th generation wheels and they ride a lot better compared to the BFG's. Hoping to get a lot of worry free miles out of them. I purchased the tires at Costco for about $730 out the door....killer deal. Costco only carries Michelin, Bridgestone, and BFG...at least at my location. Borrow a membership if you can

I garage mine over winter....I have my reasons. But I will drive it as much as possible if the roads are clear during the months it sits (our last winter wasn't bad snow-wise). No issues with leaks other then the output shaft on the transfer case which was like that when I bought it....next project. Our Wisconsin winters are extremely dry which is a good but bad thing I'm sure. One of my relatives has a 99 Powerstroke dually and he has been storing it since he got it used about 10 years ago. Completely different vehicle but no issues on his end. I would highly suggest to drive it whenever you can. Make sure you get all of your fluids properly heated up the first time you decide to take it out. Go for a nice long cruise. Still necessary if the batteries are removed from the vehicle to be stored indoors on float chargers?

Well there she sits. Can't get over the ride of the Michelins....compared to my BFG All Terrain's. Also, going down a tire size made an insane difference too (285/75R16 w/ factory steelies to the 265/70R17 alloys). Better stopping, less laggy with the long pedal on the right, and I'm sure less wear on the front drivetrain in the long run. Very pleased with this setup.

Our local joint is a good place....it's a "you pull" but they never ever have any late model automobiles. Heck, there's not even a lot of second gen's there come to think of it. To find anything newer then a 2008/2009 model year of anything is rare. I can give them a call and maybe they have some sort of network. I know the part number. It's not huge rush.

Thank You friend. In the end I'll have two sets of caps...one chrome and one painted. It's a shame they're about $80 a piece to replace from Mopar and I just cant justify buying some knockoffs....I want the Ram logo and I feel the quality will not be the same as OEM. Keeping a sharp eye out on eBay and craigslist for a used set....I really like the chrome well.

I keep forgetting to hit the "follow" button so I can get notifications to responses. I'll get a photo up soon.

Thank you for all the advice....I'll be using it to spiffy up my factory 16's. I ended up powdercoating the wheels with a semi-gloss black. So here we sit...they did an excellent job. I'll post a photo on Monday once they're back on the truck. I bought a set of used center caps from a 3rd gen. that I plan on painting to match the wheel. I got the set of four chrome caps from the sale with the wheels but unfortunately the one posted in the photo below is the only one in good shape. Just a note: When it comes to these center caps used on the late model wheels there are a total of four different center caps that were used by Dodge. Chome or silver finish and two different backing material styles for them to mount onto the lugnuts.