WiscoRedkneck

So I'm looking at picking up a project for 3k it basically needs wiring harness dash and engine, whole dash and transmission then put her all back together. What are your thoughts worth it or not? I replaced the body on mine already so I kinda know I'm getting into but this is a 12 valve versus 24 valve should be easier right . https://milwaukee.craigslist.org/pts/6185014700.html

I have Napa severe duty no complaints but I will be doing a complete axle swap since everything about my 99 front end sucks (C.A.D system suspension and bolt on rotors) perfect example my 94 2500 Chevrolet with a front end that weighs half of what my Dodge is uses the same size brake pads on the front... I have modified the rear brakes and have stainless high flow lines on the front, with my 285's and my setup right now in a full panic stop situation I will skip/hop the backend unloaded and if I'm loaded that same stop will warp the front rotors almost every time. So IMHO no caliper and rotor upgrade means no real gains from high heat/friction pads.

You mean the bro truck or mall crawler?... it has become very common out here and is hilarious watching people that can't make a good turn because the wheels are to wide and rub when turning. It's nice to see stateies finally enforcing bumper and headlight height laws and in Wisconsin 2 1/4 inches of tire past the edge of body is all that is aloud trucks that look like Tfaoro summer wheels and tires do they would likely be getting stoped for a "D.O.T inspection"....

I misspoke and was a bit misleading, at least by us you can get bosch or KN filters at wal mart and you are 100 percent correct on using a quality filter. 90 percent of the time I run a wix or napa gold I always have a spare fuel and oil filter around since the oil filter always gets changed before the oil, I use oil analysis to know when to change my oil. I have the luxury of being able to give a friend the entire used filter and about a quart of oil for free and his shop runs the test

My truck had 310k on it when I switched to synthetic no change in leaks or noises the only difference I can visibly see is, in winter oil pressure comes up faster but in summer a little slower. Overall it has a way more consistent time to build pressure then with dino oil from summer to winter. If you do it in your drive get it to the safe range then level the truck and top off or go to wally world with a drain pan start draining the oil then walk in buy the oil, filter and all other shopping then come out make sure it stopped dripping install filter and plug then add oil....

Unfortunately it comes down to needs versus wants right now... I would really like an adrenaline but the transmission(suncoast stage 1 with about a 100k of heavy pulling miles)won't take what that programmer can put down with a 35/40 hybrid turbo and 100 sticks I know that for a fact the smarty was beating her up. I know it's getting another transmission maybe even before the road trip but there's the problem the late July road trip with a 32 foot 11k loaded bunkhouse, no programmer, no good, IMHO its just unsafe when the truck and trailer cant get out of their own way. But I'm saving up enough for an emergency transmission change en-route if needs and already have planned shops along the route so if the trans fails on the trip I'll be good, thus meaning buying a programmer and a tablet is harder to swallow then just buying a programmer....

Passed on the used XZT we opened up the unit to find that the unit had decent damage likely due to the fire and extinguishment after the accident, corrosion and smoke tracing inside the unit. It looks like I'll be calling you shortly for a new unit. Just not sure XZT or adrenaline

1999

I found the replacement harness online just need to reach out to @quadzillapower to find out if I can swap it over or if I have to send it in

Looking at buying a friends used XZT for 200 (he flipped his truck) he has an 01 so it has the wrong harness but he claims to have the correct one and said that the harness is easy to change. Anyone done this before? It's about a hundred mile drive one way and I planned to go look at it at 12 noon today.

No, I pushed a sprayed 383 past the limits of the transmission lost drive and overdrive. Then found I still had 1 and 2 but had to manually shift the transmission with the column shift otherwise it's a lame duck. Now I'm shooting for 2 turbos a 5.3 and a 4l80.

Thanks for the replies it's now in my friends hands to finish. I'd do it myself but my garage is overflowing into the driveway with a truck getting a 5.3 swap a clean room to build the motor, two motors, two transmissions plus parts and pieces from two wrecked cars. Anyone want a healthy built 5.7 and a 4l60 with 3 and 4 blown out of it

Having a friend take the truck and go through the whole front end for 700 we also talked about the selectable full locker he explainded to me the way the truck is used it would be a huge benefit but also pretty much repeated dieselfuture's comment. Stating "swap it to a non c.a.d axle with manual locking hubs and then think about a locker otherwise you'll be picking your truck's front axle up in pieces on the ground". So maybe that'll happen some day otherwise a winch is in the real near future considering I'm going off pavement for about a month pulling a 30' trailer

So long story short I think I'm on my own on this one. Everyone is to busy or doesn't want to do the work, I think I'll be installing a new carrier with selectable locker in this process, any thoughts are appreciated. I may pull the whole axle and take it to TNT and have them do it but then I'm out of a truck at least a week maybe two.

That's kind of what I thought based on my interpretation of the book instructions for r and r. It sounds like I'm going to have a friend due this one

The outer seal in the drivers side of the front axle is leaking and getting worse. I first noticed this at a hotel a month ago then last night at the hotel we left a puddle on the ground, I know gear oil when I smell it so I know that the axle is leaking fluid onto the tyre and ground. I've done this before but never on this axle or this truck my question's are do you guys know of any tips or trick when it comes to these trucks do I need an axle puller how much time do you reckon is involved in this repair. Any input or advice is appreciated right now is the worst time for this truck to go down with a major repair thanks in advance.

There may be something in a private section only viewable by certain donating members to keep security ideas out of the public's eye's You can pm me otherwise I have two deadman switches

I fixed my issue with a gates belt and new tensioner, only to have it come back with in the month except rather than squealing all the time it only does it after it's raining, I use the a/c for over an hour or it's been sitting awhile... so yesterday morning during the storm and fired it up only to watch the tensioner arm bouncing up and down with a minor shimmy side to side from the pully. I take the tensioner off and back to the store and a close friend was working and he instructed me not to waste my time with that tensioner you need to get an oem one from Cummins... I trust him only because he has 3 Cummins trucks two 2nd gen and a 3rd gen, and one of the 2nd gens is a 12 valve race truck. Have you guys seen or heard this with the aftermarket tensioner? Here is the new tensioner I plan to run since the one I'm holding in my hand was made in china.... https://www.klmperformance.com/93-02-dodge-cummins-5333499-belt-tensioner-assembly.html

Congrats on 400k sitting at 323k and driven daily matter of fact it just got new rubber a month a a half ago and I can't believe I've already put 4k on the truck and new tires... I doubt I'll see 380-400 by the end of the year but I may be close. Treat em right and even at high mileage with the right setup you can give a new Mustang a run for it's money in a straight line that is.... to me that makes the truck worth it all on it's own

Vendor told me battery is fine and they can do nothing for me yet I clearly see the truck starting better with the deep cycle battery out of the camper stuffed under the hood. On that note when I get the money I will be replacing both batteries with a different brand likely duralast.... It just sucks because I personally know the owner of the parts store and he wasn't there so I had to deal with one of his lackeys and after that experience I don't want to buy their parts anymore. Either way I will speak with him and see what he has to say on the subject... Thanks for the replies

No this set of batteries is one year old and one battery of two failed. The set before this was the same brand and lasted 9 years that's what I don't get. Sorry I was not more specific the first time, I just find this odd and want to make sure I'm not missing something The failed battery is going back to the original vendor tomorrow to see what they say.

Yes on everything besides ensuring full charge every time I start and drive due to the fire department. I make sure to take real good care of them last set lasted 9 years

Saturday we went to the city to handle a side job started the truck in the morning no issues besides a belt squeak, get downtown no problem shut down at 09:00 truck sat until 13:00 when the job was complete. We went to start up and truck was very weak but started volt meter on dash showed in range but on low side sitting on the line after 2-3 seconds it bumped to over 14. Get home no issues, at this point I'm not thinking alternator since it's showing its charging and made the trip home. The shortened long story on this truck is it doesn't have it's original cab or any original sheet metal for that matter it was apart for years, has a 1/2 ton body with a 3/4 ton chassis and wiring harness shoe horned in place. It's been on the road for about a year now and electrical problems have been my only issues. When put back on the road two new batteries were installed from napa all connections were cleaned and so on... That Saturday when I got home I checked voltage on both batteries passenger side showed 13.3 and drivers side was down to 12.4 not even 15 minutes after driving an hour home Had a friend load test the batteries to find passenger side fine drivers side failed. Questions are is this a random occurrence where the battery failed premature or is excess load being placed on the drivers side battery some how? Also I have been getting heavy corrosion on the drivers side connections with little to none on the passenger side.

If it's original sender and over 200k I'll put my money on that... mine puked at 211k

Lost one on the trail or job site replacement rattled so I gave up on hub caps... I have some decent oem caps around here I think 2 or 3