015point9

How often do you clean injectors in above posting? Injectors in my gasser...tried to clean them. Nothing that comes in a plastic container is strong enough in my opion. If product doesn't screw up plastic, then not that strong.

Agree...wish I would of known that before I bought. Also after taking a good look at the bracket the pump mounts to, it does not look like something any place (fass or airdog) would sell. When the Fass was put in around 2005 I think the mechanic welded up couple pieces of metal and called it a bracket. But still better job than my welding. I'll be so glad to get pump set up right. And move on. At present time pressure gauge is mechinal screwed in directly to airdog with one of Vulcan's wrapped around running board. "A" pillar is dangling loose on dash board waiting for fuel pressure gauge. But have to relocate trans gauge somewhere. After installing fuel tank, fuel gauge no longer works. Problems...problems. getting problems worked out one by one. Good I don't need truck as daily driver. For the last year, truck has gone no more than 6 miles from house. I appreciate all the help on here. Everybody has been very helpful. Thank you.

OP here...i don't have enough room for regular size wrenches. Ordering a set of thin blade today. After getting thin blades, if I still don't have enough room I 'm going to have to get another mounting bracket that has more room at top and side.

Thanks folks Right now thinking 2 things. 1. Call airdog to see if it's right to put in longer bolt, or spacer so bolt head has more distance from bracket and i can use wrenches. 2. Grind out a really thin blade wrench made of 12 or 14 gauge metal. (Edit about hour after previous post. Learn something new every day. I never knew "thin bladed" wrenches were available, other than speciality sizes one would buy for a particular job. Amazon has them. Going to get a set, should solve my access problem.)

I know how to adjust but can't wrenches in there to adjust with pump mounted. That's why I'm wondering if I can adjust not mounted on truck and not connected to vp44. Think I'll noodle something out where pump is not mounted...but standing on top of something yet close enough to be hooked up to vp44 so i don't have to mount, adjust, take off then adjust again...and have to repeat till pressure is 19

Pressure would go up and down 5-7 psi. Not all at once but over time, one week to the next. The bolt that I can't get to keeps whatever is inside tight. And the "Jam" nut keeps it tight. Doesn't do much good to tighten up jam bolt if the bolt it's keeping tight is loose. (Pic found on line) the nut at top right is what I'm trying to tighten.. The big nut keeps in (whatever parts) and "Jam" nut keeps that bolt tight. Pretty hard to get wrenches in there. Can't use socket because when you can't tighten the other nut is covered by the socket which prevents wrench access. Can't find an Airdog part diagram, if I knew what was behind the big bolt I might take it out and put on a spacer, so wrenches could adjust. But don't want to remove big nut and have bunch of springs and bearings fall out.

Ok thanks ...I was thinking a pump really wouldn't matter what is was pumping and pressure would be the same. Except I have no idea what vp44 does when idling but suspect some fuel goes through to lube it...which would relieve some pressure. How much pressure relieved...i don't know. Guess I'll get my share of diesel baths taking off to adjust pressure, bolt back up, take pressure reading...then repeat till pressure is right.

My fuel pressure kept going up and down. The adjustment "jam" nut (9/16) I can turn but the nut behind it (3/4") also moves. Can't get wrench on it because of bracket is blocking wrenching room. I ground down an old wrench, still not enough room for both wrenches. Problem is created because I turned the airdog 180 so I could use old fass bracket without drilling new/more holes. Question...if I hang pump on fence and suck fuel out of bucket to set pressure will pressure be the same when hooked up to vp44? Thought I would bend over vinyl hose to create back pressure. I don't want to keep taking pump off and on...thought hanging on fence to adjust would be easier. And only have to set one time. Dreaming or good idea? Thanks (Edit... pump on fence tottaly independent of vp44)

Drivers side door... The mirror switch knob, any tips? Embarrassed to say I've been carrying around new window motor over a year. I couldn't figure out knob.

Same here... Thanks for the advice and sharing. Last year pretty hard on my very limited knowledge. You folks helped me more than you know. Maybe next year hinges on hood won't get as much use? Merry Christmas

I old oem worked 14 years so I replaced with same. Wax pellet type, so not cheap. 01 with almost 90k miles, so lots so t-stat gets lots of use. Hate to say price was close to $80.00 if I recall right from cummins dealer (ouch) if i get 14 more years...i am happy. I am not as lucky with water pumps. Weep hole with wobble pin. ( wife remembers maybe I got some oil also at same time? So maybe not so much $$$. ???)

While i don't have much experience i recently did what you are planning. Planning out project takes some thought. Lots of past threads on here and YouTube. My old fass broke after 11 years and 65k miles. New airdog is good but if you need any tech questions airdog is lacking. Fass in my opinion is much better in customer service. No matter which you get...don't forget to register. That is first question both of them ask if you call them. The Airdog I got came with pump in middle of hose length. I like pumps to pump and not suck, so I mounted it closer to tank on my old fass bracket. Not to mention the airdog plastic mounting block didn't appeal to me. Most of my quick disconnects are now brass threaded fittings. With shut off "full port" turn valves that come in handy when changing filters and keeping diesel baths to a minimum and all 1/2 inch. Both of my return lines are going back into basket. Vulcan sells a carter pump with fittings that if/when pump quits down the road somewhere you can just change fuel line to Carter pump and swap elec wire. Takes about 15 min and that way you're not stuck who knows where. About $80.00 I think. I carry mine under back seat. Puts out only 7-10 psi but you're not stuck in middle of somewhere. (I got stuck in RV park and ended up with bad mechanic) Give some thought to fuel module. Use cheap harbor freight step drill on plastic to keep plastic from splitting. While Vulcan is 3 hours away (and mail is 2 days) for me. My push lock and bulkhead fittings are from a hydraulic hose repair place. Dropping tank looked harder than it was. ( I have to drop again sometime to fix fuel gauge) Starting up with bone dry fuel line and filters and without cracking couple injectors lines. It took me 5 times...crank starter 25 sec, cool down 45 sec then repeat before signs of life, then about 20 seconds to run smooth. Vulcan treats you right after the sell. (But he hasn't answered is phone last couple days...i need more filters. Might be vacation over holidays?) Everything is stock on mine.

Where does one get wire diagrams? (Little alone with color)

That was the brand I was going to install because of reviews I read. But most reviews are written up just after install and still new. Have you had yours for sometime ? Working as advertised? Would you buy another? Thanks

Where might closer to you be?

With trailer hooked up (about 900 pounds tongue weight) I just pump till level ( I think around 35 pounds). A lot easier when I lift up bed by trailer Jack, put in air and Jack up trailer Jack. Pumping air with weight of trailer on...very hard. Friend with large 5th wheel on...bicycle pump I couldn't mash handle down. Last yr my pump broke (actually fitting at bottom broke and couldn't find another) spent around $60 for a stronger model. Still can't pump with trailer on very easy. I have running boards...and put valve stems where I can fill with air at gas station coin machine. 2 seperate air lines. Airbags were 2nd BD product I bought. First was their exhaust brake. No more of them for me.

After you posted your first pic last night, I went out and doubled checked on mine, which is 2001 2 wheel drive 3/4 ton. Something just didn't look right to me. When looking at mine, I have another spring at top and at bottom. Not saying mine is right or yours is wrong. Your last pic you have an air gap at top of U bolts. Probably would be good idea to re-torque after some miles are put on. My BD airbags say to have atleast 5 psi in mine. I found out why the hard way. They rub just a little tiny bit with no air in them. Glad I caught it early and no damage to airbag. It took me a lot longer than what I thought it would take to install mine. Did you install a air compressor? I use bicycle pump for now...I'm still looking for air compressor to mount and hook up under bed behind cab. When towing wives trailer around I don't air up to certain amount of pounds, I air up till bed is level. Also noticed first couple months I had a leaks (from cutting airline with pocket knife) I picked up a tube cutter and solved problem.

Thanks for replies...after looking at flow charts I'm going to have to do more homework in order to get right size pump matched up. 1. Going to measure what psi I have at test port now. (Test port up by valve cover) 2. Inside diameter size on current (oem) fuel line and generator line that i want to use. And distance of lines. So I'll be back...after I get above info. Might be awhile because generator line is hard to get to, but should be able to tell size from spare generator fuel pump.

Posting on this site because many are familiar with hose sizes and what pressures do to floe. I want to install a back up fuel pump in a small motor home. Gas...not diesel. On a small 5.4 trition. I can work out most of the plumbing but I'm stuck on figuring out how much gas I can get through a certain size line. I have a gas line much smaller in size that feeds a generator. Much smaller than gas line to engine under the hood. Would be great if I could use this small line. What is it called...figuiring out how much fluid you can a certain size line at so much pressure? If someone would give me a hint...I could google from there, but don't know what to look up. Thanks

Posting on this site because many are familiar with hose sizes and what pressures do to floe. I want to install a back up fuel pump in a small motor home. Gas...not diesel. On a small 5.4 trition. I can work out most of the plumbing but I'm stuck on figuring out how much gas I can get through a certain size line. I have a gas line much smaller in size that feeds a generator. Much smaller than gas line to engine under the hood. Would be great if I could use this small line. What is it called...figuiring out how much fluid you can a certain size line at so much pressure? If someone would give me a hint...I could google from there, but don't know what to look up. Thanks

Posting on this site because many are familiar with hose sizes and what pressures do to floe. I want to install a back up fuel pump in a small motor home. Gas...not diesel. On a small 5.4 trition. I can work out most of the plumbing but I'm stuck on figuring out how much gas I can get through a certain size line. I have a gas line much smaller in size that feeds a generator. Much smaller than gas line to engine under the hood. Would be great if I could use this small line. What is it called...figuiring out how much fluid you can a certain size line at so much pressure? If someone would give me a hint...I could google from there, but don't know what to look up. Thanks

Not much experience here but couple easy things to check out. 2 things.. 1 You have canister cover with socket drive in middle?...so when tighting, the seal gets equal torque over 360 degrees and not distorded over the years. 2. Not on mine but saw a fass pump that where filter seals against the metal was not perfectly flat. Owner had to really apply lots of torque to get leak proof. Which he broke seal sometimes. Shop was trying to figure out best way to get perfectly flat with file or something.

OP here...Thanks to those that replied. Digging thru owners manual...could not find anything that says head or tail lights light up when you lock or unlock.

When I mash the key fob “lock” button on our 2001 , the doors lock, and no other lights go off. Wife that has a brain tumor has been telling me for some time that something is broken and the tail and front turn signals are supposed to light up also. I don’t remember lights going off when you hit the fob since we got it in 2005. Who’s memory is working better…mine or hers? Thanks

Thanks..Going to look closer at what I have. I wonder if it's any great crime not to have a "turn over" valve? Old one had one but not new one.