Rogan

I can't get 300 out of a tank, let alone 1/2 tank! --- Update to the previous post... I'll measure mine here in a few... The fuel tank, I mean.

...still looking... :banghead:

That's about how I do it.

when I accidentally ran out my QCSB, I put 5g in it by can, then drove to the station, and put 21 more in it, so it's around 26gal..

relay in an adjustable thermostatic switch, like those for electric radiator fans. Then, you can set your temp you want the fan to switch on/off. Put it on the HIGH setting wire. Like this: http://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS/555/52125/10002/-1 Additionally, ISX.. Have you tried another 'new' tstat from the same manufacturer of the 'junk' one? Just comparatively testing two of the same?

My '96 SCLB held ~34gal of fuel. My '01 QCSB, on a totally empty tank, only held ~25-26gal.I've read so many conflicting bits of info on tank sizes for the RAMs, that I'm not sure which to believe? Do any of you have any hard numbers that a man can take belief in?I've read all have 34gal tanks, 8' beds have 34gal, 6.5' beds have 26, 6.5' beds have 34, 8' beds have 44 (wtf? ) and so on.What do you guys have?

LOL no doubt. I know during "Storm", they were taking a beating and still flying great.I, personally, enjoyed being on the ground and in an M1 ;)As for the museum, Uncle Bill has spent a good bit of time, blood, sweat and dollars putting that together. I'll post some pics of it that I took over turkey day vacation, when I went home for 2 wks.

welcome home ;)I'm from western Virginia (not to be confused with the state of West Virginia LOL )

Ahh, the airborne tanks! The Warthog is probably my favorite jet. My uncle is trying to get his hands on one. He's built a Cold War Museum in Lancaster, TX. He's got (most are now flight-certified) a Cobra, Mig21, Mig23, a couple of HIND-Ds, L-29s, L-39s, and a bunch of other old, rare B1RDs. http://www.cwam.org/wiki/index.php/Museum_Schedule http://www.cwam.org http://www.cwam.org/wiki/index.php/Aircraft (there's more, now.)

I hear ya. I know my '01 is A LOT more noisy when it's cold than my old '96 was.

just a thought to possibly consider, with all this advance/retard/hot air/cold air scenarios concerning cylinder temperatures.. Anyone factor in cylinder head 'pressures'? I'm not trying to get too technical at this stage in the game, just a point to consider when tinkering with cold air, timing, fuel, and boost

I would think that the 47/48RE (stock) would give up the ghost in short order, doing this. If not, the TC may.

just buy a high idle box from prowelder. ;)

Thanks, guys. I'll have to look into that. I've found some Recons for $60, but I'll also check out NAPA. I'll have to drop the headliner to see this stamping, or search the interwebz to see if I can find a pic.. --- Update to the previous post... Direct replacement OE-style LED cab lights. $44. http://onestoptruckshop.com/ONLineOrdering/PacerLEDbrakeLight.htm

I like the ProSport gauges, personally.. $116

I'd pass a stone the size of Kansas, if my 24v would break >19mpg on the highway.. Hell, I'd like to see > 14 in town.My 12V with #10 and 38psi boost got 17-18 in town, and 26 on the highway at 68mph (CC) from VA to NY.I've used 3/8 tank on this last fuel up, and I've barely reached 120mi.

I know all my turbo cars in the past, with MBCs, I've had to dial the boost back a little, to avoid the overboost spiking where I'd often see boost increases of 5-10psi in the cold air.The air, as stated, is much more dense, so the molecules are closer together. This allows the turbo to force many more air molecules into the combustion chamber. This doesn't increase the volume, obviously, only the molecular count within the same given space.Add more air to a fire and what happens? It gets more intense. More intensity in the same confined space equals a greater (albeit leaner) burn.All electronic fuel-controlled cars run 'fatter' when cold, burning more fuel.

I mean, they're everywhere (ebay, amazon, etc.) but 99.999% of the ones out there, like Recon, are for 03-08 body style.Is the roofline/curvature that different between the two body styles?And anyone know of a template out there for 2gen trucks? Anyone here installed their own cab lights on a non-oem cab light truck?

I'm actually needing to replace my resistor box right now, (hopefully this week) as I only have "high" speed. Additionally, my fan/squirrel cage is squealing intermittently, so I 'may' need to replace that, if I can't knurl the cage shaft enough to hold it. Replacement or cross-reference vehicles (if you're in to junkyarding, like I am) RockAuto has the resistors from $33-52, and the blower motors in the mid-$50 range (no fan wheel included.)

Update:Ended up putting some free tires on my stock wheels, dropping the spreader bar, and I think I'm good to go, now..

What else is required in running them? Smarty, etc? As mine is stock currently. Sent from my HERO200 using Tapatalk

I bucked up and went Tapatalk Pro

I thought it looked like RR..Thats what I use for tuning Subarus..now, I'm gonna have to start digging a little ;) I've used RR since '07.

I've yet to see > 18mpg, ever, in my vp44 truck. My average DD mileage in the 24v is ~14-16mpg, all city. My p-pumped 12v (turned up) saw 18-20mpg in the same usage. In my 12valve, from Virginia to Long Island, NY, we got 26.9mpg @ 68mph on the way there. On the way back, @ 72-73mph, I got 22mpg. empty, no trailer. My 24v gets ~17-18mph @ 65mph, empty, no trailer. 12v = #10 fuel plate - FF, AFC-FF, 40psi, 16.5*, 4" dp, catless/mufflerless 7" stack, bhaf, nv4500, 241hd, 3.55s, jake 24v = stock everything except bhaf, 5600, no muffler/resonator, 4" turndown behind cab. What software is that map from??