Rogan

I've got a 55 block in my '01.

^^ That's how mine is set up.

this is a delicious entree option, but it's not on my dollar menu.. btw, nice avatar.. I like the emblem

This would be relative to how much and how often you're spraying it. fluid volume is jet size, pressure and time dependent. Additionally, (from my gas car history) The relationship that you should seek to manage with water injection is the ratio of water to fuel. Metered to exacting proportions as little as 3% water to fuel can replace the amount of heat absorption that fuel previously provided when leaning from 10:1 to 12:1 AFR. There is no system that can meter water in that exacting a relationship with fuel that does not utilize a full fuel injector driver, port installed nozzle jets, high flow pump(s) and a rising rate pressure regulator. At this point you are talking about stand alone engine management and a duplication of the fuel system but for water. That being the case the best solution is to use a system that will get you as close as you can to mirroring the fuel injector flow and run at least 10% water to fuel for margin." Note: On engines that are highly modified or are used in an extreme racing environment more water can be used. On to a basic method with which to use in determine what water jet to use on your system. You would need to know before hand: 1) Capability of the fuel injectors you're using (cc?s per minute) 2) Rated PSI of the water pump that you intend to use for instance, the fuel injectors in your engine are rated at 577cc/min and you had 6 of them, you would be injecting 3462cc/min of fuel (6 x 577 = 2308cc/min). Take this total and times by a percentage between 10% to 15% or maybe even 20 (highly modified). Now you need to know the capability of the WI pump you are using. If you are using a pump rated at 100psi, such and such jet might flow 280cc/min but that same jet with a pump rated at 75psi might only inject 215cc/min. Aquamist jets using Aquamist race pump Aquamist jets using Aquamist/Shurflo 150 psi pump NOTE: This is a very simple and not a scientific method but it allows the WI user to have a good starting point from which to begin with. Aquamist sells kits with 3 jets to allow the user to tune the WI system to their needs. QUESTION: If these calculations are for water, what happens when you add methanol? On some of the Aquamist literature, it says to add .1mm to the jet size for each 25% of methanol you add to your water. How would this convert into other nozzle sizing used, such as M-sizing? If I'm using an M5 @ 100psi, can I switch to an M5 @ 150 psi with running a 50/50 mix? ANSWER: All Aquamist flow recommendation are based on the cooling effect due to the latent heat values. (of course, diesel needs to be added to this chart, for relevance. ) To convert 100% water to 100% methanol, you need to multiply the flow by a factor of approximately x2.5. (methanol's mass is x0.8 of water, so if injecting by volume you need to use the density correction). Most non-Aquamist systems use oil heater nozzles (or similar looking), all based on lb/hr of oil and not litre/hr of water.

on my turbo gas car, i run 50/50 washer fluid/distilled water. running an aquamist S1 setup, Hobbs switch at 15psi (you'd prolly raise this for diesel), a 5.5mm jet @ 100psi water pressure, I picked up 47whp @ 11.1 AFR. Again, this is on a gas car.I have the same setup, but a 6mm jet for the truck, just need to put it on, sometime.. I'll be triggering the WI engagement at ~18-20psi boost.On the gas car, I have a 1.5gal reservoir and fill it about 1x per gas tank fillup. Sometimes a little more, depending on how hard I drive the car.I'm putting the jug for the truck, inside the cab, with a check-valve (very important.) Also, ensure you have a fluid level light or something to let you know when you run out. Not so important on a diesel, but a gas car, tuned for it, will pop the motor quick with the surprise lean condition.

YAY!!! Thank you! I was JUST about to start a thread asking about it

boo. i can't find one now

happy belated. However, I share the same feelings about mine.

Newest one, good til 26DEC10

Ive thought about that, as well. Here's another idea I scribbled out yesterday.. it's viewed from the front of the truck.. The other one, you mentioned, is possibly my easier option.. I guess. LOL

no refund. I bought the plow 2nd-hand. The bracketry and such, I bought new. I'll make it work, somehow. Can someone with a bone-stock 2G 4x4 here measure on flat ground, from ground level to the lowest frame portion, where the bumper brackets bolt to the frame? Or give me a measurement from ground to center of lower-front bumper bolt?Thank you, in advance.

I've never seen that type of issue with the factory keyless.

Thanks. I'm a member on plowsite, as well as letsplow. I got the subframe together and mounted. Last night, I hooked the plow to the spreader bar. "Houston, we have a problem." I posted on LP site, but thought I'd share here, as well.. As Arctic Plows rep states to me, "Your truck is too high." Really? WTF.. But it is. At least, for their undercarriage design. Here's some shots of the insanely steep A-Frame angle of the plow. This is not gonna work, unfortunately.

that's pretty sweet. I hope to get some sort of power upgrading this year, sometime, like an Adrenaline, or the likes. Not trying to make a pulling truck or anything, just want a little more towing ooompfff..

big difference?

not to hijack, but I put my tow mirrors and brackets on last night.. took about 30 mins.. just need a little fine-tuning on the driver's side top stud, where it hits the mirror controller.. I, too, got the heated/power ones, same place (am-autoparts or whatever)..

Well, I hope you guys can benefit from it. I just saved about $18 on an order of suspension/steering replacement parts, using the code.

Guys, I just received my new discount code from Rockauto.com..

wouldn't that create a 'vacuum' on the rearward snorkel side?

yeah, I've decided to just go with OE-spec MOOG joints... Hopefully, it'll get done this week.

I've got that covered ;)

same with mine. At slower speeds (sub 35mph) the speedo vs. GPS are within 1mph. At 60, the speedo is 4-5mph slow.Even over a 90% highway trip on a tank, the odometer showed 328mi. The GPS showed 367. It still only averaged out to 14.1mpg (seems with 1/8 tank left, I can only get 25-26gal in. Just a hair below 1/8 tank, I will run out of fuel; been there, done that... It happens within minutes of the "low fuel" indicator turning on... If I had a Smarty or equivalent, I could calibrate the speedo accordingly, but that still doesn't change the fact that my stock 24valve gets far less mpg's than 'turned up' 12 valver.. It get's 25-26mpg on the highway, over a tankful, at 65-68mph.

again, not slamming you at all. I probably fit it there better than I'm verbalizing, to be honest. I don't like to sugar-coat anything, and I (more often than not) tell it like I see it.

oh, that's a whole new ballgame. I missed that part, sorry..