Rogan

given the fact that it's all interconnected, just disengaged, I don't see where 2H to 4H would cause any issues, to be honest. Having rebuilt several 231/241 tcases, they're quite simplistic in interior design. you're just moving a coupler. 4L, however, is a whole different creature. you're then engaging planetaries. (231 series has 3 planetary gears, whereas the 241 series has 6.)

2WD to 4WD-HI should not be an issue at normal speeds. I've done it at 30-35 before (several times) with no odd noises, grinding, jerking, etc.. Just like buttah.. This is with both my '96 and my '01..This may not be 'recommended', but I've done it/do it with no ill effects.

$3.29/gal here. At least that's what it was yesterday. I ned to fill up after work, so I'll let you know if it's changed..

A turbo timer is nothing more than a device that keeps 12V power on the IGN and ACC wiring of the ignition switch, via a timed set of relays.$200 for a TT? someone needs kicked in the behind, if they spend that kinda money for one.ANY turbo timer will work, if you want one. They aren't vehicle or fuel-type specific.Any number of them can be had from $50-100 max on ebay. (Apex-i, HKS, to name a couple)

Info: 1994-2002 2500 2WD/4WD Steel Wheels: [*]Lug Pattern - 8 on 6.5", 9/16" bolt [*]Rim Size - 16x6.5" [*]Offset - 4.75" [*]Max Tire Size - 245/75R16, 255/85R16 2000-2002 2500 2WD/4WD Forged Aluminum Wheels: [*]Lug Pattern - 8 on 6.5", 9/16" bolt [*]Rim Size - 16x8" [*]Offset - 6.25"

I posted this somewhere else here, as well, but a cross-fitment for the blower fan and/or resistor is the 93-95 jeep grand Cherokee

This is what came out of the truck. I failed not getting a pic of the one that went in. It looked different.. No lower disc, and the valve-portion, or actual "gate" was much narrower. Sent from my HERO200 using Tapatalk

so, to add to this thread, I replaced my thermostat Saturday. (must say, it took all of 2 minutes, and I think I lost about 4 ounces of coolant, at most..)I drive about 6 miles to work, and the truck never leaves 140* COLD mark, even if I plug it in.The old tstat looked fine, and wasn't stuck open, like I thought it might be. Oh, the Stant tstat, $30 at Manny, Moe and Jacks.. At least it came with a new o-ring gasket.. whoopty-freakin-doo..So, I drove in to work this morning.. By the time I got to the jobspot, it was ~170-180*F. YAY! That's in 24*F temps, and being plugged in last night. Tonight, I'll not plug it in, and see what it does tomorrow, as it's supposed to be a repeat of today.BTW, the old tstat: I might try to test it tonight, if the wifey will let me put the tstat in one of her pots.. I'll add pics shortly.

I'm with ISX on this one, but it's all in how/where you drive, in my opinion.In my case, I have a few miles of development/neighborhood streets to navigate before I actually get to the house. Same goes for going to work. However, on highway runs, or when pulling the trailer, I tend to let it idle for a minute or so. I do not have a TT or anything else, for that matter. I just sit there and wait on it. I figure that if I'm in that big of a hurry, I should've left sooner ;)I did, however, use them on my gas turbo cars. Well, only on the non-watercooled turbos, anyway. The watercooled turbo car, I usually didn't wait, if much more than about 30 seconds or so..

that's perplexing, as I'm sure you agree. I wonder if it's not something with a contraction of metal + cold (loose connector, cold solder joint, etc.)Have you looked at / reseated the blower connector at the resistor box (on the fan housing itself, in the pass. floorboard, between the blower fan and firewall) and/or the HVAC controller in the dash?I'd start there, reseating the connectors (unplug, reconnect), then see if there's a change. I'll continue to think about this one.My wife's old Saab 9-5 wouldn't turn the fan on until there was a little temp built up in the coolant, but that was only on 'auto temp' mode.. My '01 and '96 Rams turn on when I want them, so I know that's not the situation here...

Out of curiosity, how much different are the front TREs between the two? They look identical between my '96 and '01 on the front knuckles. The drums are huge on the '96, so I can see where there may be a fitment issue, but I'm not certain.

when it's working, will it work on any speed setting?or just on the High setting?

So it's done it since I've owned the truck, but anyway...Turn the key on: Oil pressure goes to about 40-45psi on the gauge. "Wait a minute.. I haven't even started it.."Stays there, too, after I start it, and drive it. It stays put there, as long as the key is on.. If I unplug the Oil Pressure Switch harness, it goes to zero, so something tells me it's the actual pressure switch?... At the nice price range of $180 (Rock Auto), to $212 at Advance Auto Parts; Auto Zone wants $193 for it.. :nono:Is there something you guys may know about that could be causing this? I mean, something like the 'low oil pressure) TSB, but opposite, obviously.. :)Thanks.

Thatll work, for sure. But I'd bet there's a label in the glove box...

mine also has a sticker in the glovebox door. shows my 6-holer to have 5200# front D60 and 3.55s

gorgeous!

IMHO, they're ten times better than ATT. I was with ATT for about 8 yrs. I still have ATT for my 9-5er iPhone, and Sprint for my personal/own business phone. I live in city limits, and can stand in my living room holding both phones, the Sprint will have 2-3 bars. The ATT says "Searching..." This seemed to be a common issue for me here, so I went with Sprint. I RARELY lose signal, and in 13 months, I've dropped 2 calls. On ATT, I'd drop 2 calls/day.. :banghead: I have an HTC Hero, rooted, and use it as a wifi access point for my laptop and/or iPad all the time. The $69 unlimited plan I'm on, rocks!

Do both the SG2 and UG "clear" codes, as well? I see that they read them..

no problemo. Thought I'd offer ;)

^^^ this. Thanks, mike! --- Update to the previous post... Who is your carrier?

6500 was a steal!

Not now, but have had many in the past. Everything from a '53 RHD beetle w/1300km (yes, 1300 kilometers), to several late 50s, a few early 60s sliding rags, couple 67s, 23 window micro, a double cab, a barn door, ghias, and 3 914s.