dripley

If I am reading this right you are saying the internal vane pump is where the pressure comes from to open relief valve and not the lift pump. Many years ago after receiving the in tank pump from Dodge I started having some bucking and dead pedal issues. Took to a diesel shop in Maryland that some time trying to find the issue. The only thing they found was low fuel pressure, 5 psi at idle and near 0 at WOT. I added a booster pump on the frame and it cured the issues I was having. I have no idea what pressure I had since I had no FP gauge nor knew of the need for one. I was pretty ignorant as to what made this truck back then,

Got some more rope to do that very thjng this am.

Got started late yesterday with a light rain falling. Stayed dry as a bone, chicken bone that is.

Pull the fuel pump relay in the PDC and the VP will not power up. This will allow cranking but no engine start.

My oe sender was like. When I got the intank pump it got reversed abd now when the light comes on I have about 3.5 gallons. At half tank i have sbout 14. First time drove with a full tank I got hit about 420 miles. I really thoght that in tank pump a MPG miriacle until I saw the second half disappear in 225 miles.

The only reason I brought up the rear is if you raise the front you have raise the rear. Nothing inherently wrong with the. As mentioned below ii is not a big deal just more money.

Still more money. How about the rear? Dont get me wrong, that look is not for me. But it is not my truck and I am a firm beleiver in to each his own. Just trying to figure how you can raise your truck like that and have it structurally sound for much less than 2 grand in parts. Then you got to buy the wheels and tires. @Kane4sythe i am not trying to discourage you in the least. I would hate to see riding tall in the truck just to have break.

I see the steering package but how about the lift kit to get the truck up that high? Am I missing something?

Nothing wrong with dreams and having what want but if your funds are limited this will be a major undertaking. You could drop a couple grand just on the parts before you buy the big wheels and tires. Not to mention if you are running on 3:55 gears they are not going to like those big tires. On the flip side the gas station going love you because you will be a very regular customer.

I driven that stretch of highway more times than I like. Lived in Marietta for 9 years. Left back in 91 or 92. The people clock they had there had just crossed 1 million when I left. It was too crowded for me then and now there is about 3.7 million people in the greater Atlanta area. Almost as bad as working around DC. I would not go if were not for travel and living expenses. I can stay at home and work for nothing. This job is going to last about 24 weeks.

Will the Quad keep fueling to beyond the boost pressure stopping 18 PSI or does it level off there? My thought is it would not keep dumping more fuel without the air to burn it and thus a lot black smoke. Just thinking out loud and trying to improve my ignorance. I would agree on the test gauge. Something is whacky.

I went from 900 mile round trip to 300 mile and now back up to 500 mile round trip for the next job. All thats weekly by the way. It is on the north side of Atlanta in Marietta. Not to happy about the locality but it is a BBQ house and not a chicken house for a change. I will be the pig man for a while.

Bone stock truck wont make more than 18 to 20 psi of boost unless you have done something to the waste gate on the turbo. Stock waste gate opens around that pressure and a tuner cannot overcome the mechanical waste gate. As far as fuel pressure, what lift pump are you running? If it is the stock Carter the drop might not be unusual, but looking at the video your pressure was all over,Maybe a sensor issue. I dont know that the quad will fuel to that high of boost, 35 to 40 psi, if you are not making that much boost. Your EGT is very low for it to be fueling that hard. If you are running a stock HX35w turbo 35 to 40 psi is a little out of its zone. The low 30's is about its max operating range for efficiency. How the Quad deals with all of this is a bit over my head. Someone will come along and help that part and maybe straighten me out. It would help greatly if you would fill out your signature so all can see what if any mods you have done to the truck; If bone stock list it that way. Speak of the devil and he posts. @Me78569 knows much more about this than I do. He is also right about the 1693 code.

The FTE resonator is not flo thru. They have some sort spiral baffling in them. It is explained their site quite well.

I am covered on the rags. Got a couple bags. I praying for no t storms, my garage is pretty much a sail. Start the tear down on Monday sometime. Even found a local machine shop. Same folks I used many years ago. They are familiar with the 5.9 and one mechanic I know reccomened them also one I did not know said the same thing.

I would not have broken 100k yet with that amount of driving. I cnange mine 3 or 4 times a year.

The 14 psi is where the return valve is fully open. It has a bypass that always lets some by all the time. I cant remeber at what pressure the valve starts to open. Maintaining a 14 psi minimum just assures the VP is gettoing all the cooling available from the fuel. IIRC Bosch's pressure requirements were in the 5 to 10 psi range. Some one with better knowledge will correct me if wrong. This was all based on how the rolled off the showroom floor and before folks started strapping performance enhancements and the diesel we use has modified. This also brought on the use of fuel additives such as 2 stroke oil to help the lubricity of the fuel. A stock truck can get away with lesser add onsbut I am no expert on that.

You got a point there.

My front one has been off for a year and a half. No big deal. Rear one is still on.

My front axle joints were not as bad as expected, once i figured out to tighten up the press then hit the screw with a hammer. Mine has not spent alot of time in the salt country. At least it was nothing like changing my first unit bearing.

Get a bigger easy out or just take it off.

No cat. 4" since 09 and no complaints. 5" tip. Banks SS.

friction modifiers as my feathered friends like to call it.

My first OE front went at around 400k and I just replaced them both. I dont use 4wd that much. Drive shaft is still oe, front and rear. Pounding them out in parking lot cant be any fun.

I would just wait on ATF 5, it has to coming soon says the chicken.